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Re: wude light "band" or stripe at the top of each image
Try to reset the camera first, second don't operate the camera (on) without the lens attached, the shutter can get damaged. If you purchaed this camrea recently (new) it can be serviced, within a year it can be sent to Nikon for evaluation. If it is used or past the maufacturers warranty find a reputable shop to look at it.
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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
Peter, Your camera has lots of settings that can cause this. If you want to be sure if the camera has had its best time, please check if it is in complete automatic mode. If toy switched it to one of the manual settings, or to night scene, it can be to much light is recorded causing bad contrast and lines coming off from bright objects.
No, it's not a software problem. The problem is that the shutter
doesn't work so it can't control the amount of light taken so the
pictures are very bright with horizontal lines. There are usualy two
causes - a broken shutter cable inside the lens or the shuuter blades
are stuck - may happen if the lens get wet or something adhesive gets
in it. It's a hardware problem so I suggest you contact local Canon or
other camera service center. It is considered a hard repair so it could
get expensive. I don't think it's worth it, so I would suggest you get
This sounds like it might be a defective CCD imager. If so, Canon should fix this for you for free, including free shipping both ways. This is regardless of your camera's warranty status. Please check the following two links for more info:
This is normal. It may be distracting, but what it is is light. If you notice, it happens when there are bright spots, lights, reflections. These distortions will show up in video so try to avoid aiming at bright things while in video mode. Another type of flicker will happen mostly in florescent light.
Before CCD image sensors, video camera used tubes and aiming them at the sun or bright objects would burn the tubes permanently so cameras have come a long way, but by the nature of cameras being devices that record light, it is hard to eliminate that effect altogether (similar to red eye...just can't be a perfect science due to human nature of having blood vessels in the back of their eyes that when bright light is shined into them, their pupils open and the red color is reflected and shows up as red eye...this is best fixed in a photo editing program. It is hard to totally prevent, but changing angles and not shooting directly head on at subject helps). But I digress...
If it is really distracting for you, here is the one thing I found helpful; recompose the shot slightly by moving yourself, the camera, the angle (doesn't have to be dramatically different, but try to have the sun or light source behind the camera). As you move around, continue to push the shutter halfway down (each time not continuously) to bring subject into focus (getting your green box or boxes that indicate proper focus). Sometimes the lines will disappear if you change your shot even very slightly.
SHARPNESS - The function is to adjust sharpness of capturing images.
CONTRAST - The function is to adjust contrast (distinction between light and dark) of capturing images.
SATURATION - The function is to set color depth of capturing images.
GRADATION - In this function, you can select the brightness of an entire image. It is suitable when you want to add a brighter effect to a bright object (Hi Key) and a darker effect to a dark object (Low Key).
Current LCD display technology can reproduce about 300 different levels of brightness. Brightly lit scenes or light sources may exceed this brightness range, causing a temporary disruption (artifacts) in the live display. Artifacts are part of the display, but they are not part of your recorded image. If you take a picture while you see artifacts on the screen and then display the picture on the LCD, you will no longer see the artifacts.