Question about Whirlpool GSC9455 Top Load Washer

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Spin cam bar seem to be stuck..is the clutch the problem

TThanks TZWEEB you were very helpful. I can't get my hands in there because I have access to only lower back. I dropped the motor down a little by removing the back motor mount plate. I wasn't able to pull spin cam bar al the way out. Doesn't the large end go thru the clutch so I won't be able pull it all the way out and replace it without removing the transmission. I am replacing the wigwag but I think the old is working . When I pushed the spin cam bar all the way back the spin would stopped but would not spin unless I pulled it back. IT DOES MOVE BACK AND FORTH EASILY as the agitator cam bar does...is that normal. That is why I attemped to pull it out. Is something in the clutch not allowing it to slide back and forth easily. I have to push so hard that I don't think the wigwag could push it back and forth. I bought this machine in 1982 and I hate to give up on it. One other thing I used lithium lube on the cam bar was that a mistake..will that effect the magnet?

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5 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: Washer does not spin

I had the same problem in october- my had a bad wiring harness, some board problem, and a bad sensor. if it hadn't been under warranty the cost of parts alone would have been over 1000bucks.

Posted on Jan 09, 2008

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate care II Washer Agitator not turning

replace the dogs in the top portion of the agaitator, the agaitator top comes off and you will see the four dogs part number is 285707 about 3-5 dollars

Posted on Apr 16, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove the washer cycle selection/start-stop knob on a Whilpool Heavy Duty Thin Twin stacked washer dryer

I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.

Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate Care Washing Machine Agitator

after removing the agitator from the machine (7/16 bolt) i place the agitator on the floor, step on either side of it and pull up on the top half, ittl come loose, needs a little help! a word of advice though is after replacing the agitator dogs, turn the entire agitator upside down and insert the bolt through the entire agitator assy and keep constatn pressure on the bolt as you turn it boack over and try to realign with thte tranny shat. ( you see the parts wanna seperate as you try to reinstall them otherwise)

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: One part of agitator moves the other part doesnt.

Two-Piece Agitator: Bottom Works, Top Does Not - Whirlpool brands

Some Whirlpool brands washing machines employ a two piece agitator. The bottom is call the agitator and the top is usually referred to a 'Mover'. A multi-piece cam and bearing assembly connects the two and allows the top portion to index.

If the bearing or cams become stripped or damaged, the mover will often not work. Fortunately, Whirlpool produces a cost effective agitator repair kit that replaces all of the critical components in this cam assembly. There are three different repair kits. They differ in the height of the cam.
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Agitator Removal Instructions:


Remove Dispenser or Cap:
Some models of washing machines utilize a fabric softener dispenser that resides on top of the agitator. This dispenser simply snaps onto the top of the agitator. Other styles utilize a decorative cap. To remove the dispenser, simply grab it and firmly pull up. To remove the agitator cap, insert a small flat-head screw driver into the seam between the agitator cap and the upper agitator (mover). Use a twisting or prying action to pop the cap off of the agitator.

Remove Internal Debris Cap:
Inside the agitator you will see a cap with a raised handle, much like that of your automobile. Simply reach into the agitator and twist the cap while pulling up. This will remove the cap and its o-ring.

Remove Agitator Stud:
When looking into the agitator assembly, you will notice a single nut in the center of the agitator. Use a socket kit or nut driver to remove this bolt (agitator stud).

Remove the Upper Agitator (Mover):
With the bolt removed you should be able to remove the upper half of the agitator (mover) by simply pulling up. Sometimes pulling up will actually remove the whole agitator assembly. If this happens, place the Lower Agitator on the floor and stand on the flat lip. Then Pull up to separate the Upper Agitator (mover) from the Lower Agitator.

Remove the Cam and Clutch Dogs:
When you remove the upper agitator (mover) it contains the cam and clutch dogs. Tun the assembly upside down. The cam and dogs should then come out.

-- Stop Here if Replacing Cam Kit --

Remove O-ring:
The lower agitator remains on the transmission shaft. On the top of the agitator, there is an o-ring. Remove this o-ring.

Pull the Lower Agitator:
All that remains is the lower agitator. This can be removed by simply pulling straight up on the agitator.


Agitator Installation Instructions:

Set Lower Agitator:
Slide the lower agitator onto the transmission shaft. Rotate the lower agitator until the splines in the shaft match those in the agitator. Once aligned press the agitator down. Install the o-ring into the top of the lower agitator.

-- Start Here if Replacing Cam Kit --

Assemble Cam and Dogs:
Turn the cam upside down. Place the small round ear of the dog into the corresponding slot on the cam. Repeat this for each of the four cams.

Install Cam and Dogs into Upper Agitator:
Invert the Upper Agitator (mover) and slide the cam/dog assembly inside. The cam should be pushed into the mover until it shoulders. Then rotate the whole assembly upright.

Install the Upper Agitator (Mover) on the Lower Agitator:

The lower agitator has two tabs that stick up that are 180 degrees apart. These tabs fit into two slots on the bottom of the cam. Align the matching tabs and slots and place the Upper Agitator (mover) and cam assembly onto the lower agitator. Push down until the cam snaps onto the Lower Agitator. If the dogs fall out during this step it is necessary to return to the 'Assemble Cam and Dogs' section above and start over.

Install the Agitator Stud:
Place the bolt (agitator stud) into the hole in the bottom center of the cam. Use a socket kit or nut driver to tighten the bolt .

Install Internal Debris Cap:
Install the o-ring into the groove on the OD of the debris cap. With the o-ring in place, push the cap into the Upper Agitator (mover). It is important that the cap is pushed past the ports in the Upper Agitator (mover) so that the wash water can enter and exit as designed.

Install the Dispenser or Cap:
The final step is to replace the top cap. Both the cap and the dispenser simply snap into place. Just make sure they are installed as far down a they will go and are firmly in place.



Posted on Apr 07, 2009

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My Whirlpool Duet front load washer makes a clicking/grinding sound when you start a cycle. The drum never spins, sounds like a plastic gear or something.


No spin, or lite spin try these:



Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.




Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!



GRINDING NOISES:



The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.





Read more:http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/506592-grinding-noise.html#ixzz3ZrrG7UEk

http://forum.appliancepartspros.com








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Feb 13, 2014 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ7533JQ1 washing machine. It agitates and drains but does not spin. I checked the motor coupling is not worn out nor broken. This is a two speed washing machine. ...


This is a neutral drain direct drive machine which drains the water first prior to spinning. After draining out the water completely, the motor pauses then restarts to spin the tub. It is possible that the problem is in the lid switch. If the motor is running during the spin cycle then the lid switch is good, otherwise it is indeed the problem.

The problem can be either in the brake particularly the cam driver or the clutch assembly. The clutch hub is attached to the spin pinion gear and as the spin pinion gear turns, the clutch hub also turns. The clutch lining is forced against the clutch hub by the clutch spring. As the clutch hub turns, friction between it and the clutch lining causes the clutch lining to turn. As the clutch turns, the tab that holds the clutch spring on the lining, contacts the brake cam driver, releasing the brake. The tab on the clutch lining remains in contact with the brake cam driver, holding the brake released and then providing power to the spin tube through the brake release.
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The basket will not spin if the brake cam driver is broken because the brakes cannot be released. If the clutch spring is weak, the friction between the clutch hub and the clutch lining is not sufficient for the clutch tab to push the cam driver and release the brakes.

Check and replace, if necessary, the brake cam driver and the clutch assembly particularly the clutch spring and the clutch lining.

Dec 30, 2010 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 series 11026912690, agitator makes loud noise


If the problem is just the agitator not working, but everything else does, you may just have a worn agitator cam assembly, worn agitator dogs, loose agitator bolt, or all of the above. The following link explains what agitator dogs are and how to access them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

Whirlpool manufactured washers (such as Kenmore) use a split agitator design. The top half is known as the "auger, while the lower half is the agitator. Between the two pieces is a cam assembly, with small teflon teeth known as "dogs". There's also an agitator bolt that holds the entire assembly to the center post.

If the auger (top half of the agitator) is slipping, I would suspect the dogs or cam assembly need to be replaced. The part number for the dogs is included in the link I provided. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam assembly which includes the dogs, the cam, the cam seal and thrust bearing.

If the entire agitator appears loose or slipping, check the agitator bolt to ensure it is tight. DO NOT overtighten as this can restrict movement of the agitator or damage it. Tighten until snug.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.



NOTE: Other causes can include a broken motor coupling, bad gearcase (transmission), or worn clutch assembly. It does not sound like the problem is associated with any of these components however.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would not spin at all (whether you held the agitator or not), but would still have the ability to drain.

If the gearcase (transmission) were bad, the washer would either not spin, or may spin with assistance (meaning, if you gave the drum a spin by hand to get it started).

If the clutch were bad, the symptoms would be similiar to that of the gearcase and the tub would probably also have problems stopping.

This problem sounds like it may only be associated with an agitator that could be loose, causing an off balance tub. Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this is helpful to you.

May 28, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Will wash clothes but not spin them dry


This is a little about how your washer spins. When time to go into a spin cycle, the motor is already running and the washer is in a pump out mode. The timer advances and closes contacts in timer that make electrical circuit through the lid switch to the spin solenoid. This is normally done through a gray wire from timer to lid switch and then a red wire from lid switch to the spin solenoid. A white common wire completes the circuit. This spin solenoid is on a magnet bar with the agitate solenoid also on it. You will see it under the machine moving back and forth as the motor runs. This magnet bar is called a wigwag in the appliance trade. When the spin solenoid is energized, it sucks a plunger pinned to the spin cam bar up into the solenoid. The plunger pin goes to a different level in the cam bar and pulls it in the direction of the motor and keeps it there until spin cycle is over. When cam bar is pulled back, it allows the clutch to drop down and engage the spinning center pulley attached to the spin tube. The spin tube turns, the wash basket is locked to spin tube, therefore it spins. Now for your question. What goes wrong?
1. The solenoid can be open. Watch it and if it doesn't **** the plunger up, check with an ohm meter. If solenoid good, assume no power to it.
2. No power to solenoid. You will need to check the circuit from timer, through lid switch, to solenoid. Most likely place seems to be lid switch. check it.
3. The wires coming to the solenoid are constantly moving back and forth as the machine runs. This puts tension on the wires and they tend to break inside the insulation of the wire. To check for break internally in the wire, read from one end of it to other with ohm meter. Another way is to grasp wire (unplug the washer) about 8 inches back from end and pull hard on end of wire. If broken inside, it will pull apart and stretch insulation. Replace wire. There are mechanical operations that can give problems, but most spin problems are in the area that I just addressed.
Another common trouble maker has cropped up in the last few years. The set screw on the clutch assembly backs out and this will keep the brake on all the time and the washer will either spin very slowly or not spin at all. Sometimes the hole in the spin tube will become damaged and requires the clutch to be replaced, but sometimes the sets screw can be reinstalled. (unplug the washer) You must remove the set screw and line up the holes by slowly turning the inner basket around. I usually use a piece of hard wire pushed into the hole, once the set screw hole and the spin tub holes are lined up you will be able to push the wire in...add some lock tight to the screw threads and reinstall the set screw. Picture of where this set screw is.

Nov 27, 2009 | Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 90 series Model # 110.28902790, during the spin cycle the agitator start to spin and then hangs up for a moment then tries to spin again.It keeps repeating this process while making a...


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.28902790

Please see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same parts.


The problem points to a worn Agitate Cam.

Whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

The cam is a two piece plastic part that lifts a gear above the main agitate assembly in the transmission so that the agitator doesn't turn during the spin cycle.

We had the same problem. The cams had worn enough that they weren't lifting the gear (less than 1/16").

They aren't expensive at all but do require pulling the transmission.

See the following for a description of how to remove the transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the tub!!

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It may seem like a difficult job but it really isn't. It is a bet messy but it's a lot less expensive than a $170 transmission.


Nov 06, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

This Kenmore Elite Top Load Washing machine has


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This gets a little tricky.

It sounds as if, based upon the weight in the tub being reduced, the noise gets less. Something is pressing on something else due to the weight.

If you look at the gearcase parts section of the Sears site, you'll see parts called the agitate gear and agitate cam.

If the agitate cam wears (it's two plastic pieces) when the transmission moves to the spin cycle, the cam is supposed to lift the gear above it.

If it doesn't lift the gear high enough, you'll hear loud gear noise. This may lessen as the washer pumps water out and there is less weight on the spring.

We had the same problem with a washer and found that by replacing the cams, the noise went away.

Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


Sep 26, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag Washer, LAT2300AAE, won't spin


ok lets see here;your transmission can go in two directions.if you turn the middle pully one way it will agaitate if you turn the oppisit direction you can watch [from under neath]the brake raise as the cam seperates and lifts the brake.now with the brake lifted ,your tub should spin.if its not lifting the brake you need a new center pully kit[i have had to do many]it comes with washers ,bearings and cams.if the brake lifts and your tub still wont spin you may have a pice of clothing between the two tubs[i had that one to,many times]i hope that helps.you can email thru fixya if need more advice God bless ,tom

Jan 26, 2009 | Maytag Dependable Care LAT9706

1 Answer

Whirlpool top load belt driven commercial


there is no easy way to put the cam bar back under the pressure spring. what i usually do is try to start the cam bar at the short end and force it back under without removing the bolt that holds the spring to the transmission. if you cant figure out how to do this the only other way is to remove the transmission.
if you do take the trans. out then be careful to not let the agitator shaft ball fall out or the unit wont spin when you get it all back together.
the spring is not very strong and if you can get both hands under there, then just wedge the spring up and then try to force the can bar back in. its not easy but keep trying as pulling the trans. out is alot harder.

Jan 07, 2009 | Whirlpool GSC9455 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Spin cycles not spinning, does drain water before spin


check the wig-wag.it is the part near the cam bar.has 2 coils on it. also check the yellow wire going to the solenoid it may look ok but could be broke internally.

Nov 04, 2008 | Washing Machines

3 Answers

Kenmore Washer Spin Issue - Need help troubleshooting


Check the coils on the wig-gag. Its a couple of bars that engage the spin drive or the wash drive. If you look at the machine when its running you will see it moving back and forth, hence the name. If the coil engages the spin cam, but it still will not spin then the tranny is your next culprit.

Jan 04, 2008 | Washing Machines

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