As the problem states, I have a Lennox Conservator G8E natural gas model that recently started short cycling. Furnace fires up, heats up the heat exchanger, fan starts, runs for about 15-20 seconds, and shuts down. The thermostat isn't satisfied and it waits about 60 seconds and does it all over again until the therm is satisfied. So I was wondering if anyone had wiring diagrams that could point me in the right direction for checking the limit switches on the Lennox Conservator G8E. Thanks for your time.
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Is zone 6 only in program C? If so, it's simply telling you that the current draw is beyond the controller's capacity which I believe is either 1 or 1-1/4 Amp. In which case the Valve solenoid may be shorted. If Zone 6 is also set to run in any other Programs and does not indicate a short, then the Controller likely is at fault.
If its a gas furnace it could be the heat sensor on the pilot flame unit. When the sensor is failing it stops telling the control that the pilot is lit properly and the furnace goes thru another start up sequence. You can try to scrape any flash and dirt off of the heat sensor rod to clean it or remove it and clean or replace the sensor or the pilot assembly. There are plenty or furnace parts on Amazon. The next most likely thing is the relay board is ready to fail that part is ~$80 but you need to get the part number right and be experienced with wiring. WARNING-DANGER B4 you do anything to your furnace Turn Off The POWER first! If there is no plug or switch near by, shut of the circuit breaker! If you don't know what any of this means then you are likely not a good choice to mess with this device Be Safe :)
You can do some troubleshooting by looking at the glass fuse after it has failed. If the element looks melted and there is no other discoloration, then the fuse probably blew as a result of an overload somewhere. If the fuse is burned black, then it's probably a short in the system.
You can meter the motors to see if they are shorted anywhere or open.
It sounds like you may be correct about the circuit board.
You make a good point about overheating on heat exchanger temp.
Since you don't have to reset anything for it to recycle, then I assume you have one of the newer forced draft furnaces.
There should be leds on the control board inside the furnace compartment that will blink a code to you, telling what the shutdown reason was. Blinks and code should be on a label inside the blower door panel, or inside the control box cover.
Let me know what they are, and I can give you more direction. I am assuming this furnace worked at some point, and no changes have been made (including closing of duct vents).
We had the same problem with the same furnace, CODE 32 DISPLAYED ON THE LEDS. I fixed it by cutting the air inlet pipe and using a hair dryer to supply heated combustion air to the furnace. Once I did that it started to run more and more until it finally heated the house up and works fine, so far so good.
We had a severe drop in temps, sunday it was 40 and rain and that night it dropped to -5 I suspect those conditions contributed to the problem. Wife observed this has never occurred before in 14 years of operation.
Your most likely using the wrong switch. Try the link above for the correct switch. Its a single pole 15A 125V rated switch. There are 3 terminals, the third is for the light in the switch and is a neutral wire for the indicator light only. The wires must be correctly on the terminals or else you'll create a dead short! On the link above your looking for the replacement of the ZE-215.