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The motor has a component called a clixon (there are other names for it, too). The clixon has a step up coil and a capacitor that gives the motor an extra bit of juice to get started turning. When it fails, you get the kind of thing you're talking about. If you keep trying to use it without this component working, it overheats the windings and shorts the motor out, killing it. You're most likely going to end up replacing the motor now.
If the motor is using a single phase supply there will be a capacitor which could have reduced in value- open.
If so try and use a capacitor in parallel to see if the motor works-- in this case the motor might hum and get heated up.
If table saw worked on the breakers before and suddenly stopped working, then see if you can lubricate motor bearings >> look for oil cap on each end of motor and use 3-in-1 oil. Clean the saw and make sure there's nothing rubbing against drive belt and that saw blade rolls easily when saw is turned off.
If you have a motor with the no.1313314 and the motor runs ,but the blade spindel does not turn try removing the backcover plate . With this removed you might find that the toothed gear belt has broken. If this ,in fact, is the problem the belt is a Bando syncro,link 100xl.
Hope this rectifies your problem as I am waiting for a new belt myself.
I have a table saw that the cord from the motor plugs into the the back of the on/off switch. I yours is configured like that, unplug the motor cord from the back of the switch and plug it in to the wall and see if the motor will run. If so replace the switch.
What are you cutting? What type of blade, power supply, etc are you using. It sounds like the thermal overload is cutting out.
Try looking for a little (red) button on the motor itself that pops out slightly when the motor cuts off.(due to overheating). If you push that in, will the saw start running again?
Try taking out your brushes and clean them, also clean the brush holders. (make sure the brushes slide all the way in and out freely and that they are not worn down past the ware mark) Also make sure you put the brushes back in the same way or the electric break may not work properly because of the ware pattern it makes.
While you have the brushes out look into the brush holders and look at the armature. The copper blocks are called the commutator if it does not look smooth you might want to take it somewhere and have it tested.
Also make sure your are getting power through your switch to the motor.
More than likely it is your brushes or brush holders.