How can i know the original of the tannoy r3 bass driver
Could you give me some pictures in detail(picture in front and back of bass driver)of bass drivers of tannoy r3.
how can i find that is the original or false.
thank you very much
i am waiting your reply soon
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Derrick, not all cabinet speakers were meant to be replace, not saying it can not be done, but they could be epoxied in.
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The fuse of my TS1001 blew, because the MosFET IRF740, another IC, and the transformer were shorted.
Called Tannoy who were not helpful and asked me to get to their authorised reseller/agent, as you cannot purchase parts directly from Tannoy. The agent obviously added a mark-up on the part.
Cutting long story short, I purchased the amplifier board for a TS801 to fit in my TS1001 because the BASH amplifier for TS1001 is no longer available/manufactured. The sizes of the amplifier plate were similar although the TS801 is 200W with 8" driver and the TS1001 is 300W with 10" driver.
I am now using a 200W amplifier with my TS1001 (Works well with the 10" driver).
Put the jumpers back in as shown. Hook your speaker leads to either top or bottom. The entire array of drivers will be active.
Make your receiver aware they are LARGE for the purposes of bass reproduction so some bass will get out to them. FYI, many AVR's will only allow Large Rear speaker selection if you also have Large Fronts. Refer to the manual(s).
Speakers don't cause a loud buzz but amplifiers do. Is it possible that the input to the amp lost it's ground? Regardless, this is not why the speaker does nothing but you would want to correct any amplifier problem before hooking up another speaker. If as you say, absolutely nothing happens it is possible that you blew out the voice coil of one of the drivers but blowing out both the woofer and tweeter simultaneously would be unusual, not to mention that Tannoys can take quite a bit of guff. So the next possibility is that there is a problem internally with the crossover or,and I doubt that it exists, and internal fuse associated with it. Since there is an LED (and I don't know what purpose it serves) there has to be some sort of power supply (fused?) to activate it. It could be derived from the audio output of the amp but it would then pulse on and off rather than just be constantly on. Getting inside the unit with an ohmmeter would quickly determine what's going on but I don't know how this can be meaningfully diagnosed at arms length and therefore just can give you some generic ideas.
tannoy dc speakers are built to very high tolerances. they are very easy to damage if taken apart so i suggest you contact a specialist tannoy service shop. i know a shop in london who sells a lot of vintage tannoy speakers and he says very few repair shops are capable of fixing these dc drivers. good luck