I REPLACED THE COOLANT IN ALL THREE PROJECTORS,I TOOK THEM OUT SO NOT TO GET THE FLUID ON THE CIRCUIT BOARDS. I TOOK THEM CAREFULLY OUT ONE BY ONE AND MADE SHURE HOW THE WIRES WENT. AFTER THEY WERE DONE I WENT TO TURN ON AND GOT NOTHING BUT A CLICK. THE UNIT HAS POWER AND I MADE SHURE THAT ALL CONNECTIONS WERE TIGHT. IT HAS ME PUZZLED PLEASE HELP
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I had the same exact problem. I found a suggestion fix on FIXYA that actually worked. What is happening to your projector is that the video signal is not being comunicated to the lens. The reason for this is that the circuit board facing the back side of the projector has a connector about 2" wide and aprox. 1/8" thick at the bottom left corner that inserts into a socket located on back of the lens. This connection comes loose due to dropping of the projector or in my case after I opened up the projector and lifted the top circuit board up to remove the third single fan for lubrication. What you need to do is open up the projector by removing the lamp first (three philips screws), then remove three torx screws that hold the bottom casing to the top casing (screws about 1 1/2" long). Carefully lift the top cover making sure the rear connectors clrear. Using a thin wooden or plastic ruler or any other flat tool no wider than 1", very carefully insert the ruler down the space between the plastic casing and the rear circuit board towards the left corner. once the ruler is all the way down, try putting enough presure against the circuit board untill you see it and even hear it seat fully against the lens. Be very carefull not to drag the ruler against the circuit baord or cause any damage to it.
I had the exact same problem, I followed the advice of Victorbello on this site, and found a bulging capacitor where he suggested to look. Read where below.
I soldered in a new one from Radio Shack ($1.50) and the projector works again.
Back fans were not working
Bulb won't light (but is in perfect condition)
LEDs on control light, but not three status LEDs
Internal fan will not turn off.
The mainboard had a bad capacitor
The board is the one where all 3 fans are connected, and which is facing upside down on top of the powerboard.
The bad capacitor on my projector was a 25V 470uf 10mm diameter, 16mm high, 5mm lead spacing capacitor.
"I recommend you to open your projector, unplug all connections to the fan board, turn it upside, and inspect the capacitors and other components. Bad capacitors have a bulge and/or a black stain or fluid coming out on the top."
fisrt, did you reset the lamp timer? if the projector turns on again, go into the menu settings and reset the lamp timer. 3 flashes also mean that the lamp is too hot. let the projector go through it's cooldown mode and shutdown before you unplug it. remove the filter case and vacuum or blow the dust out of the filter. you can also blow the dust out of the projector (if any) with canned air. lastly, be careful where you buy lamps from. you get what you pay for. cheaper isn't always better.
The substance that you are looking at is ethylene glycol, which is better known as anti-freeze, but it is optically clear. If it leaked on to a circuit board, this is not a good sign. I have not been able to repair a set that has been contaminated with this fluid. If your set still works you can replace the fluid and the set will be fine, do not run the set without this fluid as it will cause the CRT to overheat and may crack.
I usually order my parts from Andrews Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need. Their site is http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx And their phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666 I recommend the phone order so you can talk to the person about type of fluid that you need. I think it is referred to as CRT coolant, and is sold by the bottle. I hope that this helps Thanks for using fixya If you need any further assistance please respond to this post. asnowman
The coolant in the CRT's is made up of 70% ethylene glycol and 30% glycerin. The coolant is highly conductive and somewhat corrosive. Since you already tried to turn it on im not sure but hopefully you wiped it up first. Take some 100% denatured alcohol and use that to clean the spill you can just pour it on and wipe it off with the set unplugged of course. then let the remainder on the board evaporate (It evaporates very quickly when open) and repeat the process. if your lucky and it did short the first time you turned it on the fuse just blew.
Man you may have a big mess on your hands the cooling fluid has probably gotten on a circuit board(s) and ruined it them and using the set with a cooling fluid leak is dangerous. You may need to replace the small signal board large signal board and the cooling fluid in the crt. I suggest this job to a pro
The are controls on the inside of the tv above the circuit boards for focus and to turn up intensity of the projector lamps (red, green, and blu). If you turn it up too far all three projector lamps kick off. If this happens, power off the set and turn down the lamp that you turned up. Power it back on and slowly turn the projector lamp up until the picture looks OK. You have to take off the panel on back of set to get to the controls.
this model is famous for fluid leaks. each projector tube has a
reservoir on the front of it with a fluid in it. this keeps the face of
the tube cool. this depends on how bad the damage is in the tv. in most cases we can
reseal the tube and clean up the fluid 400-600. Once you take the tube out you will see where it leaked. The problem is that the frame on the CRT that the heavy screws with springs are mounted on (that hold the lens coupled to the CRT) is weak and they can bend. We have seen several that have leaked after the customer moved the set. You can only tighten them down so much because the frame bends. It is just stamped metal and not welded at the corners to support the bend.
We remove the CRT, clean it all up, add a very small amount of RTV sealer to the gasket, reassemble, let the RTV cure thoroughly and refill with coolant. The extra sealer should prevent future leaks. Haven't had a recall yet. Mits says replace the CRT...too costly.
You msut check the yokes carefully as well. If any coolant gets into them you can end up with shorts there and a mess.
Clean the boards carefully and repair any corrosion damage. The coolant is ethylene glycol and glycerine which is water soluable.