Question about Whirlpool GSC9455 Top Load Washer

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Whirlpool top load belt driven commercial

Anyone know how put a wrench on nut for the brake spring that holds the cam bars down. I took the cam bar for the spin out and I can put it back. Only access is back and bottom.

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There is no easy way to put the cam bar back under the pressure spring. what i usually do is try to start the cam bar at the short end and force it back under without removing the bolt that holds the spring to the transmission. if you cant figure out how to do this the only other way is to remove the transmission.
if you do take the trans. out then be careful to not let the agitator shaft ball fall out or the unit wont spin when you get it all back together.
the spring is not very strong and if you can get both hands under there, then just wedge the spring up and then try to force the can bar back in. its not easy but keep trying as pulling the trans. out is alot harder.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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How to replace rear shocks on a 86 Toyota celica gts?


This procedure can be found at autozone.com. You can register for free, listing make, model, year, and engine size. Find procedure under "repair guides". Good illustrations, too.
1. On liftback, remove rear speaker grilles. On coupe, remove suspension service hole cover or the speaker board (on rear deck by back window).

2Drum brakes or disc brakes? No matter: Do not break apart the brake lines. There is a clip on the strut to hold the brake line and it's connection to the rubber brake hose. Take the c-clip off and cut the brake line retainer with a hacksaw (careful of the brake line and hose). This way you won't have to worry about bleeding the brakes when done. Take the line out of the strut retainerclip. When re-installing, just use a zip tie to hod the brake line secure.
3. Loosen, but don't remove, the 19mm nut holding the suspension support to the strut (this is the larger center nut on top of strut at the deck by rear window.
4. Disconnect stabilizer bar at lower end of strut housing. You will need a 14mm wrench and a 3/16 (or equivalent metric size) allen wrench to hold the link steady while removing the nut.
5. Disconnect strut at the axle carrier-17mm size bolts.
6. At top, remove the three strut to body nuts-size 13mm., and remove the strut.
To put your new struts inside the coil spring, you will have to have a spring compressor. I don't have one, so after removing strut, took to a shop for that, cost was $20 for one side. Picked it up and installed it myself.
To install: Position assembly and tighten the upper strut to body nuts to 23 ft. lbs.
2. Tighten lower strut-to-carrier bolts to 119 ft. lbs..
3. Connect stabilizer bar to strut. Tighten the nut to 26 ft. lbs.
4. Tighten top strut holding nut to 36 ft. lbs. (the shop had already done this for me) and install dust cover.
5. Reconnect brake line and hose, and bleed the brakes, if you broke the line apart. If you didn't break the line apart and just cut the clip retainer, you will not have to bleed the brakes.
6. Lower the car and have rear wheel alignment checked.

If you have a spring compressor, and can do that procedure yourself, the instructions for it are found at autozone.com, along with the above that I have outlined.

Jun 03, 2012 | 1986 Toyota Celica

2 Answers

I have tried every recommendation as to how to unlock my Nordic Track 1000 from the storage position and nothing works, I am facing the back of the belt of the Nordic Track and pushing forward with my...


Corrine, That knob is spring loaded. You need to pull it out...Hard. Before you do this ,support the walk board/deck frame. It will be free to fall down after hou pull the storage/locking pin out. You need to pull the pin out and hold it until the walk board clears the upright. Then be carfull and lower the walk board/deck/belt.

Hope this helps.

Matt

Dec 08, 2011 | Nordic Track Nordictrack Exp 1000...

1 Answer

How to change a belt on a Whirlpool washer model LA555OXTWO


I am not exactly sure on your machine, several places called it a direct drive unit but here are some directions I have found also.

1) Turn off water. Disconnect electrical supply and water hoses.
2) Remove agitator and cap from machine ( this is not always possible as the agitator gets frozen on the shaft, it just makes the job a little easier )
3) Lay machine on it's front. Protect front of the unit from scratches. Do not leave it over night on it's front as some oil will leak out the breather hole on top of the transmission.
4) Remove rear service panel
5) Loosen both nuts holding the motor mounting bracket in the slotted base plate holes. (see figure 1)

fig1.jpg

6) Rotate the motor to the right to relieve the belt tension and remove belt from motor pulley

7) After belt is removed from motor pulley, rotate motor to the left as far as possible to assure cam bar clearance.

8) The spin cam bar must be advanced to the spin position. Push up on the spin control solenoid plunger and rotate the main drive pulley until the cam bar advances to the spin position.

9) Remove the brake yoke spring from the gear case cover and yok. (see figure 2)

fig2.jpg


10) Remove completely the 3 support braces attached to the gear case and base plate. (see figure 3)

11) Remove the 2 pump mounting bolts. The pump hoses do not have to be disturbed. (see figure 3)

12) Remove the gear case mounting stud which has the spacer. remove spacer (see figure 2). Loosen the remaining 2 gear case mounting studs approximately 7 turns. (see figure 3).

fig3.jpg

13) Remove yoke retainer from yoke support. (see figure 2 for the types of yoke retainer).

14) The gear case can now be pulled down so that the belt can be slipped out between the top of of the clutch shaft and the clutch yoke. (see figure 4) and then through the space beneath the short stud; drop the belt from around the gear case.

fig4.jpg

15) Reverse the procedure in steps 15 & 13 to install the new belt.

16) Replace the pump making certain the pump lever is engaged in the notch in the agitator cam bar before securing the pump to the gear case ( see figure 5).

fig5.jpg

17) Grasp the bottom loop of the yoke spring with a pair of pliers and engage the spring with the hole in the upper gear case cover (see figure 2).

18) Replace spacer in short gear case mounting stud. Tighten the 3 gearcase mounting bolts ( finger tight only ). Next, set the machine upright and tighten the gear case mounting bolts securely. This procedure will allow the superstructure to properly align itself with the center post bearing.

19) Lay the machine on it's front to mount the 3 support braces to the gearcase baseplate. Tighten the bolts securely.

20) To adjust the belt tension properly, position the belt over the pulleys. Insert a hammer handle or some other lever between the motor mounting brackets. Rotate the motor to the left as far as it will go. Tighten the nuts holding the motor mounting bracket. Check the tension of the belt, it should deflect about 1/2 inch. (see figure 1).

21) Set machine upright. Reinstall the agitator, agitator cap, service panel, water hoses and connect electrical supply.

Mar 07, 2011 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Top load 80 when spin is complete and drum noise


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Assuming that the springs are OK and that the vibration pads are in place and not worn, (See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

May 12, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

At end of spin cycle the drum doesn't stop immediately; Instead it takes about 4 seconds and has loud noise like airplane during this time...


KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

(See the following Whirlpool /Kenmore Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can wear or the springs can get weaker or break.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.


http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Whirlpool has replacement brake shoes and springs.


Mar 29, 2010 | Kenmore 25842 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 series , Brake doesn't engage basket after spin


This assumes that you have a basic Sears / Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washer.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

It sounds as if your brake shoes are worn / damaged.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


I'd pull the drive tube and check the springs, shoes and plastic cam that hooks onto the clutch spring.

Although Sears sells a complete drive tube assembly, you can probably get only the parts you need (shoes) from Whirlpool.


Mar 04, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

1986 Series 80 Kenmore washer makes loud whining noise when in spin cycle


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This assume that it is a basic top load, direct drive (no belt) washer

If the washer has never been taken apart, there are a number of places that a whining noise could come from.

The first thing I'd do is to completely tear the washer down and give the tub, agitators etc. a good cleaning. After 24 years, it probably needs it.

Following is a description of how to take it apart. (It's not as difficult as it looks).

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

Things to check are the clutch linings for wear, the Motor coupler, (Probably a good idea to replace it while you have the machine apart as these are designed to wear), and, if you don't mind being a bit messy, the plastic pieces in the transmission itself.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Following are the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for their top load, direct drive washers. The first one has a good diagnostics section as well as a description of how the transmission works.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf



Dec 20, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Mar 14, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

It is really difficult to put the serpentine belt on. I know the tension strength is way too much. Can I change the tension strength on the pulley?1996 Plymouth Voyager


There will be a flat pulley, mounted to a spring loaded arm, that you need to rotate in order to install the belt. The spring tension will be pretty high, and you will need to use a lever bar and socket to lever against the spring to get the belt on. The flat roller will then tension against the belt as you release the lever bar spring load.

Feb 01, 2009 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Whirlpool top load belt driven commercial --spins while agitating


tobe a belt driven wp it would have tobe pretty old,if so its down in the cam bar area.the feet or plungers break and the cam bar dose not pull back.i would remove cam bar and file to clean up or replace if to worn along with new plunger.also use lite greese on cam bar where it slides and on bottem of blungers.also check the condition of your wig wag[control magnet.May God bless your house,tom

Jan 02, 2009 | Whirlpool GSC9455 Top Load Washer

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