Honda Accord 1989 part that converts ac to dc

power surging is a faulty alternator it will fry the battery and other electrics, regulator built into the alternator can do this, reverts from dc current back to ac when ac is supposed to convert to dc, and ac can be as much as 140 volts.

this is a volt/ohmmeter.
an "Ohm" is the measurement of resistance in a circuit. ...ie, a wire going from point A to point B is what you would call a short circuit.Sometimes wires are supposed to be connected directly to another point, therefor that is a short circuit on purpose. If the same wire was cut between point A and point B, then that is what is referred to as an "OPEN" circuit, and the ohms would be very high like infinite. OHMS in a short circuit would be measured as 0 (zero).

Voltage in a house is called ALTERNATING current, or AC. Voltage in a car is called DIRECT current, or DC.
Always make sure you select AC on the meter in the range of higher than what you're measuring. ...ie house uses AV120volts, therefor the meter should be set to 200, or anything higher than 120.

Set the meter to 20volts DC when checking a car, which uses 12v DC.

If you want to see if your car's alternator is charging the battery, select DC voltage (20 Volt range) on meter and place positive (red) probe on POS (+) on battery, and place negative (black) probe on NEG (-) on battery. The meter should indicate 12Volts DC if the car is off. The meter should indicate somewhere around 13 or 14 volts DC if the car is running and the charging system is functioning properly.

happy troubleshooting!

Lisa I'M sorry to say their isn't any fuse or fuses that can correct problems with our alterator.Their is what is called a fuseable line witch is basicaly reistance wire that will burn out if over loaded .However you would have nothing even with a new battery NO CRANKING.
The ALT .uses diodes it is AC alternating currant unlike DC direct current..The diodes olny allow the currant to flow in 1 derection and uses a voltage regulator to allow the systems that are DC the battery to charge and at the same time other systems that run on AC voltage to work as well .
Your best bet is to talk it to somebody who you trust and test what you get at the battery with the vehicle running if it reads 14 volts at the top of the battery DC then the ALT IS GOOD , Check the BAT , at this point with the NEGITIVE cable off the BAT. It should read at least 12 volts DC on a 20 volt Dc scale.
But likely it is the alternator

If you are referring to a 12V DC - to -120V AC converter, then the answer is obvious. The converter makes the AC from the DC voltage provided by the batteries. You cannot charge a DC battery with an AC source. Additionally, even if you could, the resulting charge would be less than the draw taken from the battery (physics - loss from heat). Also, there wouldn't be enough power left over to do anything with.

Any altenator can test good and it can be bad
If you have a volt meter do this
Get the engine running first of all
Set the volt meter to the AC mode instead of the DC mode.
Connect the positive probe to the negative side of the battery

Connect the negative probe to the positive side of the battery

If you receive the same volt reading as you did in the DC test as before the Diode inside the alternator is blown
The diode keeps the current flowing one direction making this a direct current flow

When a diode goes bad the current will reverse which causes the AC mode to kick in. The battery will olny charge in the DC mode only

From the alternator the AC is converted to DC and regulated so as to make a controlled charging at all levels of the alternator RPM when the engine revs. This is to keep the high voltage of AC to DC from damaging the battery and so the regulator/controller is an important part.
So you must first check your alternator voltage/current , then the controller regulator and the battery voltage change can be seen with a voltmeter across it. Also the currrent to the battery can a be checked with an ammeter in parallel.
So check these tips and comment.

With a good fully charged battery no load should be 13.4 to 14.2 volts DC, loaded 13.4 to 14.4 volts DC. You can also check the AC volts it should not be over 0.040 volts AC a higher reading indicates a diode problem (batteries won't charge with AC voltage).

you need a voltage doubler circuit which feeds from your 6V DC system and converts it to AC and steps it up and converts it to 12V DC. This device might be difficult to find. OR use a 6Vdc power inverter and just use a 120volt AC fan if much easier to source out in your area.
You might want to try a 12VDC high speed fan and see if the 50% reduced speed is already sufficient for you.

My name is Ron,I will try and help you.Was this battery on the vehicle when the original alternator was on the vehicle?If so It is possible that the alternator was the begining of all the problems.The alternator produces ac voltage,12 volts ac,like house current.This is called alternating current,back and forth as you may.Before the ac voltage can leave the alternator,it is converted into dc voltage(directional current).This dc current only moves in one direction,thats why there is a positive and a negative.Diodes cause the ac voltage to only go in one direction( dc volts) there for creating dc volts,12 volts.These diodes are made to allow current to pass threw them only one way,current can not go backwards threw these diodes,unless they burnout,then they will allow voltage to leak out ,going backwards,creating ac voltage,therfore charging your battery up and having a battery with some ac voltage,or a lot of ac voltage.If this has happenned any motors ,such as starter motors will not turn to start a vehicle,cause they do not know witch way to turn.The battery will not be salvagable.Get the battery checked ,and ask them to check it for ac voltage,They might think your crazy but it happens,more than you think,a lot of mechanics dont know this,so you may have to ask more than 3 or 4,before you get a mechanic to understand .this is just a suggestion to try.Ac voltage will cause the battery light to light up.also check battery connections at battery and alternator for looseness and black corrosion,battery terminals most likely will have this.The large post on the alternator is the out put wire to the battery,Add another battery wire or small cable to the back of the alternator to the battery and see if this does the trick.May be this will fix ya,,[email protected],,,for more help

put the meter in dc volts.in the range of at least 20 volts dc
.. put the red lead in the positive "+" terminal of the battery and the black lead to the negative "-" terminal of the battery.
start the engine and observe the voltage readings

if the alternator is charging fine, the reading should be 13.8 v dc or nearer...

turn on the ac, it should go down to at least 13 volts...
turn the head lights on, and you should have at least 12.5 volts....

if lower than the readings, try to rev the engine at 2000 rpm and observe again the readings,

if still low, you may have a faulty alternator.


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drcool