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My linkage fell apart inside my Symphony III air exchanger

The small front electric motor which rotates the shaft that rotates the intake and exhaust doors has a small spring which came off. How does it go on? Is it spring tension to close the doors, or to open the doors. How is it attached? Need a diagram or something. Very awkward inside to work on. Can anyone help?

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I have one and the spring is to open the intake and exhaust door.

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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Won't start


Check the fuse inside the unit, it is located where power cables hook up.

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Our Brookstone air purifier sounds like a bug zapper in spite of cleaning filter. It's less than a year old. What is the problem?


have you cleaned the connections where the filter connects . There is prob dust and dirt down inside the filter , keeping it from making a good connection. The zapping sound is from the electricty jumping the gap. A good cleaning of the inside should help. Try attaching a small hose to your vac to fit down inside the unit. give the electrical connections a good cleaning . If that dosen't work take unit apart and wipe down with alchol that you can buy at any drugstore

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Electric motor makes screeching sound and stops running.


The motor has worn bushings making the motor shaft hot and swell and eventually seize. You can let it cool off and it will more than likely run again until it heats up again. The motor will have to be replaced if you want to repair it.

Jun 05, 2011 | Honeywell Enviracaire 12520 Air Purifier

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I cleaned my Flair air purifier, The motor turns on but not the fan even after lubricating the fan shaft and giving the fan blades a little push. Any suggestions on how to get this going?


The Flair is no longer manufactured nor serviced by EcoQuest, and the company is now Vollara. If what you're hearing is the fan motor (there is no other motor associated with this machine), it might mean that either it's totally seized up, or that the oil just has not penetrated deeply enough.
1) Turn the machine over and remove the large screw in the bottom. The chassis will then slide out (I assume you've already done this in order to reach the fan shaft.)
2) Firmly pull on the fan blades near the center in order to pull them free of the shaft.
3) Turn the chassis on its back, so the fan shaft points up. Drip a small amount of lightweight oil (sewing machine, hair clipper, 3-in-1) on the shaft and turn it manually to work the oil down the shaft. Continue doing this if you feel the shaft loosening up.
4) Set the chassis upright, tilt it forward, and drip a small amount of oil on the rear opening to the fan shaft. Continue manually turning the shaft and tilting the machine to work the oil in.
5) Replace the fan blades and turn on the machine, depressing the safety switch manually, to see if the fan will begin to turn.
If it won't turn, it might mean that the fan motor is entirely seized up. You may be able to find a local small appliance repair person who could replace that motor.
Your other option is to call Vollara customer service at 800-989-2299 and ask them to explain your options. Use #16618 if you need a dealer referral number.

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Hi there,

I know you are probably getting frustrated by now. A little more patience please.

Now this is going to sound off the wall, but it will tell you whether or not water it the cause of the problem. I've had success doing this on many types of equipment and flooding.

Freeze it. Put it in the freezer, along with a fresh ice tray. when the ice tray is frozen, pull the unit and try it.

If it still exhibits the same symptoms, water is not causing it.

If the problem disappears, it still needs some drying time.

Comment me back after the freeze.
Thanks for being so patient
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How to remove the fan blade ?


080204 FixUp EQ air blog remarks

To remove fan blade you need to obtain a thin strong probe, such as a Scratch Awl for wood, that will fit without binding, into the cruciform spaces around the plastic collar. Gently insert into space of plastic collar and lever against the spring metal retaining clamp; getting started may require a bit of force, so be careful to adjust and gauge your efforts. The process is to move clamp in small increments, one side then the other, up the collar until clamp is free to remove.

The collar will still be tight, so if you can form your hands into a gear puller form with your finger tips between the fan blades under to the solid portion of the fan ring, pushing thumbs against the Spindle and lifting in as quick a jerk as you can manage to get it moving. Once moving it should be removed easily enough.

The electric motors have two bearing surfaces, one front one back. Both need to be addressed.

I like Breakfree or similar that acts like minor solvent / major lubricator with good thermal properties. The solvent aspect helps clean out unwanted particles and/or old dried lube. The new lubrication is heavy enough to hold up for at least a year; so yearly checking should be scheduled.

On other brands with heavier motors, I've tried greases when I've stripped down the motors even further. So far I've discovered a heavier lube can be hard on start up and need more time at slower speeds until unit warms up.

Something like WD40 is good for penetration and flushing, but IMO too light for sustained duty. There is a lot of spinning and heat over a year's time.

I just torn down a couple of F1's. They've been doing well for a couple of years. But with all air filters/ purifiers, they REQUIRE periodic maintenance. [Had my biggest laugh reading complaints about Oreck air filters; people NEVER cleaned them and complained when they failed.]
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