12inch craftsman bandsaw won't turn on

There are few factors that cause the blade to break, over tension, over feeding, bad weld, wrong speed.Check bandsawblog.com, there are lots of tip and information in tuning up your bandsaw .

Blades slip off the wheels on these saws is because one or both wheels are not turning true to the blade. This can be caused by:
- Missing or worn tires on the wheels. The rubber tires have to be on the wheels and they have to be in good condition.
- Occasionally the screws holding the sprocket on the driven wheel come loose and the wheel will wobble causing the blade to come off.
- Both wheels ride on bearings and shafts that, if seized, worn or broken, will let the wheel wobble enough that the blade won't stay on.
- If the blade is stretched or twisted from use it won't stay on very well.

There are many craftsman manuals available online at the sears site at http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals. Try this link to download the one you're looking for.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Have had my 12" Craftsman for 25 plus years with moderate use and have not seen that problem or replaced the tires. Please give me some idea what may have caused the problem for future reference. Moisture, contamination, jamming saw blade etc.Relacing the tires is about all that can be done other than finding out what may have happened.Thanks and good luck!

The tracking adjustment is on the top wheel in the middle-spin the wheel by hand ( please make sure its unplugged first ) if the blades moves towards the front of the saw turn 1/4 turn clockwise and turn counterclockwise if its going the other way. remember that alot of things can cause your blade not to track right. I would back off all guides and rollers,top and bottom,adjust the tracking -then move guides and rollers back in. also the rule of thumb on your guides is not to touch the blade but to be as close as possible-make sure they are both even-set back 1/32 from the gulliet i.e the deepest part of the blade teeth. One other thing is the bearing in the back(back up bearing) should not touch the blade when wood is NOT going through (set it close,but not touching).

Sorry for the long answer but I've been there-get the manual and it shows it alot better.

Any particular reason? If general settings problem, please follow this advice:

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... I assume that problem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is housed driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you have problem with your bandsaw, not related to adjustments, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... You did not stated what is exactly the problem, I assume therefore tha tproblem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you still have some trouble with your bandsaw, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

Everybody wants to resaw, but the only saw I've seen that will do it is a resaw, they are big, powerful machines. I have an old delta 14, with an aftermarket 1 hp motor, trying to resaw is a nightmare. I don't try anymore. Jet makes a big resaw, so does grizzly, both Taiwan machines, what isn't>? But they work. If you are lucky enough to find an old bandsaw with 36 inch wheels and a ten HP motor, that would be nice, you could resaw whole cars in that thing.!I The $300 special might be worth getting and customizing to work, You would need a big blade, about 1 inch min, and a bigger motor, say 2HP min, Then hope that the tracking system will take the heavy cuts. When I have to slice something , I do it first on the table saw, cut both sides, then run it through the band saw at its max cut, 6 1/2 inches, then plow it through the planer. Always a way around this stuff. Hope this helps.

Hi Alvin,

Lower the vertical guide down until it is just above the cutting surface.

However, a standard band saw blade is primarily for straight cuts. They are too wide to make sharp turns.

If you are attempting intricate work requiring extreme angled cuts, a scroll saw is better suited for your needs.

An alternative to check on would be if any thinner scroll emulator type blades are available for your model. They don't as well on heavy jobs, but you'll get the maneuvering you need on the thinner stuff.

Best regards
Mike