What is 12V pump performance when the voltage drops
I have a battery backed up sump pump system that is a few years old now. As nearly as I can tell, it is a 12Volt pump with a model numbe of FP1800DCC. It may be 1300DCC.
Recently the cord on the float switch wore through to the point that the pump ran continuously and drained the battery. Now that the battery has been recharged the pump does not seem to have the power to lift the water the 10 feet that it needs to in order to do any good.
Is there a recommended way of resetting and/or checking the health of the pump. Do you have any good suggestions for me before I try to replace the pump/switch. Where can I purchase relevant replacement parts?
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The first thing I would do is find another charger and check to see if that makes a difference. If there is no change, you may have a short where you plug the charger into the charging port on the motherboard. It could be as simple as a drop of solder.
Many batteries may only last around three years. Check battery voltage at rest before starting. Any voltage in the low 12v range may be a sign of a faulty battery.If low voltage present, then perform a parasitic drain test:1) Disconnect battery POSITIVE terminal and connect ammeter in series, between battery positive terminal and positive lead. DO NOT START THE VEHICLE!!
2) With all vehicle doors closed, alarm off, lights off, radio off, and all other accessories off, wait for around 20 minutes and then read the ammeter. A healthy system should read about 0.03 amps and little more. If reading more, then the vehicle could be suffering a parasitic amp drain, and you will need to locate this issue.
3) Reconnect battery when finished.
If no major parasitic drain present, yet low battery voltage then:
4) With vehicle started, check the voltage charge from the alternator. Connect voltmeter to battery terminals and take reading. A healthy system should be charging in the range of 14volts or down to around 13.5 volts. If reading around 12 volts only, then check and replace alternator.
If you turn on the key and you do not hear the pump in the tank running for two secounds ( the same time your warning lights on your dash light up and goes off) then 1 you need to replace the pump or 2 it has low voltage to the pump or 3 both. I just repaired a 1987 pioneer what you need to know is the pump requires 12v at the pump, however OEM has placed an inline ballast resistor located on the driver side front engine compartment near the hood latch that is made of white ceramic with two connection both wires are orange with a black stripe. A. Check the voltage on both sides of the resistor 12v in 12v out use a volt meater - to battery + to resister if no voltes check the relay the passenger side of the engine compartment ( there is 4 relays from front to back it is no. 2 from the battery) looks like a small blue box newer relays are black, if they do not click when the key is on then your CPU may be bad or fusible link is bad If you have voltage to the resister and you have 12v in and less than 12v out your next test will be at the rear connector to the pump, three wires close to the fuel filter using a volt meater check the black wire with the orange / black stripe if voltage is less than the voltage out of your resistor then there is a bad wire in the system and a new wire is required. confirm this by jumping the battery to the pump wire black to- and orange to + the pump should run. Note. running the pump with lower than 12v will damage the pump and cause it to fail! If the pump works you can check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail, remove the cap to epose the shearder valve (looks like the valve on your tires) depress the valve stem and fuel should come out, caution fuel is under pressure have a rag under the valve to catch the fuel, if low pressure the pump is bad and/or filter is plugged Replace filter first recheck this test then replace pump and recheck. Note!!! when the pump is out of the tank recheck the voltage at the pump this will show true voltage at the last connector it needs to be 12 volts! Reconnect the pump wire the stock wire and check, on the pioneer I worked on was 4 volts so I rewired it to a new battery source using the orange /black strip wire that had 12v in to resistor as a trip wire for a 65 amp power relay. The owner noted an increase in overal performance " it now has more power now" hope this helps
With my pump failure, I read the exact same 6.5 v at the inertia switch in my trunk with the key in the "on" position and engine not running or cranking. When cranking, the voltage to the pump jumped to +12V and if the engine did run, the voltage should stay at +12V.
The Ford manual states +12v should be at the motor for some number of seconds in the key "on" position then drop off if the engine is not cranking or does not start. In my pump failure case, I never saw 12V at the inertia switch in just the key "on" position, only +6.5V as the +12v fuel relay under the hood never engaged and/or stayed latched on.
In my situation, I measured an open circuit at the pump motor winding and suspect the +6.5V I was reading came from the Powertrain Control Module. I am also guessing if my pump winding was not open, the +6v voltage would have been +12v for a number of seconds for fuel priming as the fuel pump relay is temporarily energized, then drop to zero (relay off) if the engine does not continue to crank or run.
With my pump motor winding open, the Power Control Module may not have been loaded properly to function (reading +6.5 floating volts instead) in the key "on" position and therefore never climbed to the full +12V. There obviously was no fuel pressure at my schrader valve on the fuel rail when cranking which indicated an open wiring circuit (splice, ground or connector) or open pump winding. The 12v I was reading when cranking at least indicated the fuel pump relay was working.
With my new pump installed, I listened for the pump running in just the key "on" position. I believe I barely heard it running after the repair as it was running very quietly which indicates the +12v was there which supports my theory.
First, do not assume anything. Check the battery with a volt meter and make sure there is 12.v or better there. Clean cable terminals where they contact the battery, check both ends of cables for good clean solid connection. Since you hear a click, that is good ...ignition switch etc is likely good. Check the voltage at the starter : large cable should have 12v, small wire should have 12v when key is turned to "start" position. If you have both, starter has failed. Some Jeeps have an additional starter relay inside the power distribution center near the battery. if you have voltage at the starter, the relay is good. If when you test battery, voltage is low, have it charged and load tested. If battery fails test, no other tests are valid. Once started, check for running voltage of at least 12.9v with all accessories and lights on. At no time should voltage drop below 12.5, or should it continue to creep down. If it does, the alternator may be faulty.(providing belt is good and tight)
I'm assuming that by turning over, you mean that the engine fails to turn with the starter . Check your battery for 12v and make sure all connections are clean and secure. If battery has less than 12v charge it and check the charging system after re-starting. Lights and radio do not pull the same amperage as the starter and may not tell you much about battery condition. If you have full battery voltage, check the starter for 12v at the battery connection and the small (trigger wire) for 12v with the key turned to start position. If you have both, likely starter has failed.