What is 12V pump performance when the voltage drops
I have a battery backed up sump pump system that is a few years old now. As nearly as I can tell, it is a 12Volt pump with a model numbe of FP1800DCC. It may be 1300DCC.
Recently the cord on the float switch wore through to the point that the pump ran continuously and drained the battery. Now that the battery has been recharged the pump does not seem to have the power to lift the water the 10 feet that it needs to in order to do any good.
Is there a recommended way of resetting and/or checking the health of the pump. Do you have any good suggestions for me before I try to replace the pump/switch. Where can I purchase relevant replacement parts?
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To cause the pressure and flow drop you are experiencing indicates a major restriction in the the main supply pipe to the house. The stop **** where the house supply is connected to the street main would the place to start. Find the faucet that is closest to this and check the pressure/ flow and if that is OK continue to each sucessive faucet in the line. You should be able to narrow down where the restriction could be. Yuo may need the help of a plumber to fix the problem.
If the piping is the very old style galvanised steel pipes. then the rust/corrosion buildup inside the pipes would cause the restriction and is indicated by rusty water coming out if the water has not been used for a few hours. Total replacement is the only fix for this problem.
I wouldn't try to repair it, could cause a fire if repaired wrong. I would replace the whole thing.
they come from the factory rated for a certain voltage and ohms, if the voltage, amps, and ohms are not correct, it could cause the system to malfuntion and cause a fire
I would recommend using the PVC drop-pipe. This pipe is SCH80 with threaded end, you'll need PVC drop-pipe couplings too. If your pump is just @ 10GPM or so 1" drop-pipe should be fine. If you are going larger I'd recommend at least 1-1/4" drop-pipe. Depending on the weight or horse powe of the pump you may require brass couplings. Also use torque arrestors too. With any plastic pipe these are a must.
I hope this may have helped,
What type of pipe are you looking at?If it is copper then you can fine someone to solder it.If it is plastic pipe with glue joints,then you get some glue call rain and shine,clean first then apply wait a few minutes.But turn the water first.
There is usually a metal filter at the wellpoint on the bottom of your drop-tube, but I don't think that is the problem if you are not getting particles in your water. This is easy to check for just by putting water in a glass and looking for little specks.
I would be more inclined to look for holes in the drop-tube where AIR is getting into the system, thus reducing the suction of the pump.
If you are using a "bladder tank" to maintain pressure, it could be that the "off" setting is too low. You want that to be in the 50-60 psi area. "ON" should be about 40 psi.
Anyway, I think an air leak is the more likely problem, but to find out for sure, you almost have to pull the drop-tube, which might be very long. That would best be left to a well service company.
A sewer ejector pump is the answer. The waster line is run into the sump basin, pumped through a checkvalve into the sewer line that grades with gravity. A vent pipe needs to be run also, (you can't pump out without replacing the air, it's like trying to suck air out of a bottle) If you add a high water alarm, which is a good idea. It is run off of a separate electrical breaker (insurance) to let you know if the pump isn't working before it's flood time. The check valve makes sure, that what you pump out, stays out. Otherwise the pump will keep cycling.