Question about Mitsubishi WD-60735 Projection Television
I have owned two DLP's to date and both have given me problems with the color wheel. I have tried several solutions to try to quick fix this. First I did a system reset and the noise was cut in half. Then I unplugged the set for two minutes, plugged it back in and held the guide and menu buttons down to run a self diagnostic. It found an issue with the color wheel, and self calibrated for the problem. The whinning is barely noticable now, but how long before it becomes unbearable again? I have a MASSIVE home theater with VERY HIGH decibles of ULTRA low freq bass. Could this be contributing to my color wheel problems? And could it be the cause of my unusually short bulb life?
You need to replace the "light engine". This is very very difficult. You need to take it to a repair shop. But this will be very expensive. Around $1,000.00
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
SOURCE: mitsubishi wd-62825 dlp
If the green front panel LED blinks continuously and the TV never comes on, its an issue with the "DM" board. When these TVs are first plugged in, the green LED should blink for 30 sec. to a minute or so. This is the TV booting up, reading its software. Mitsubishi has been having problems with this circuit for several years. In may cases the only permanent solution is to have the chassis rebuilt by Mitsubishi at considerable cost and inconvience. The chassis may have to be sent back to Mits for this rebuild. Call Mits and ask for help.
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
There are two common problems with these sets.
Problem #1) Convergence
You can see some examples and find a fix here...
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
It's possible that you have a fried diode on the secondary side of one
of the power supply transformers. Look for one that reads like a wire
on an ohmmeter. Note that some diodes come in TO-220 packages so they look like plastic power transistors. (Don't be fooled by capacitor bleeder resistors - if
present, these are in the tens to hundreds of ohms, so this is what you will read instead of the diode if the diode is good.) The whistling
noise could be a switching power supply transformer with an overload as a result of the diode, although the primary-side power controller circuit should shut down immediately before letting that happen. It could also be coming from the speakers - that would be a hint to check the power supplies feeding the audio circuits.
If after that you are sure all of the internal cables are connected, especially to the light engine, it's time to start checking voltages and waveforms, beginning with the power supply. You apparently have power to the bulb and color wheel, and probably to some of the control circuits, but that of course is not all of the set. Most sets have some fine print on the power supply circuit board telling you what the voltage outputs are supposed to be.
Posted on Oct 13, 2010
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