Question about Zanussi ZEBF255 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
I own a zanussi fridge freezer of about 6 years old model ZEBF 255 W, type;B258896, and the bottom section which is the freezer part doesn't seem to be getting cold enough? i have turned the dial up in the fridge section to see if this will help and i noticed there is a little red switch next to it, which is currently turned off. I don't know what this button does or whether it was knocked off by accident? Can you help?
SOURCE: LARGE WATER LEAK ON FLOOR
the reason is probably that the drain hole in the freezer (i assume this is a frost-free type) is blocked. take off the rear panel of the freezer and you will probably see a block of ice at the bottom. melt off with a hairdryer and free the drain with hot water making sure that water flows freely away
Posted on May 06, 2007
The defrost cycle is not happening like it should, that's what causes the block of ice (and poor air flow). If you have all that defrosted look at the defrost bi-metal, it usually is a small round disk with a couple wires coming out of it and it's clipped on the coils. When it's cold enough, it passes electricity to the heat elements, when it gets hot enough it "opens" and kills power to the heat elements. If that is bad (swollen cracked or bloated) and not passing electricity to the elements that's the problem. Another item would be the defrost timer itself, if it doesn't work (no clock motor turning) then it will never go into defrost. And the last and usually least expected failure would be the heat element themselves not working
Posted on Oct 09, 2007
SOURCE: I have a zanussu fridge
Re. Zanussi ZK87/46EFS Fridge Freezer
The same symptom occurred in our fridge freezer. The fridge compartment warmed up whilst the freezer compartment continued to keep temperature.
The cause of our problem was diagnosed as a frozen sensor that controls a flap, that controls the flow of cold air from the freezer compartment up into the fridge compartment. We were advised to power off the fridge freezer (removing all food and trays from the freezer unit first), and to leave it to defrost for 24hrs. We needed to place a few towels on the floor of the freezer compartment to soak up the melt water. After 24hrs we followed the power up instructions in the manual (versions are available online if you have lost yours). Within a few minutes it was obvious that the fridge compartment was being cooled – Problem solved :)
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
9 times out of ten, when the freezer portion works, and the refrigerator portion doesn't, it is the evaporator fan that is the problem. I am not familiar with that model, so I do not know where the fan is located. But there is a fan that blows cold air from the freezer into the fridge portion. Usually, a fan blade is just stuck, and just needs to be repositioned or the bearing the motor spins on could be frozen or rusty. I little household oil usually does the trick, or you might need a new fan motor.
Another possible cause is the ice that can build up. If there is ice blocking the air's path it will have the same result. You said you had defrosted the unit, so this is not likely in your case
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Hi Tony. Welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,
The fact that the refrigerator is always running is usually caused by either the evaporator fan not running in the freezer compartment or there is a problem with the condenser fan motor in the condenser coil area. Check to make sure BOTH fans are running when the compressor is running. There is a very good possibility that the condenser coils are blocked with lint in the bottom of the unit. Pull off the back fiberboard cover and check for massive amounts of lint and that the condenser fan is running at full speed. If it is running slow or there ia a huge amount of lint in the coils it will present the symptoms you mentioned.
Before you do anything feel the chassis right at the door gasket area. If you not an almost HOT spot on the face of the chassis that is a good indication you have a problem in the condenser area. That being the fan is not running or... lots of lint.
Also check to make sure that you depress the door light switch when checking to see if the evaporator van is running in the freezer compartment. The light should go OFF when the door switch plunger is depressed and the fan should be running. Depending up on model the position of the light switch does not effect the evaporator fan but will cause the ice-maker not to produce any ice and / or no water in door (if so equipped) if the light switch has failed.
Lastly there is an Air Damper that controls the air flow between the freezer compartment and the fresh food compartment. If the damper fails or in the cause of mechanical vs automatic Air Damper assemblies the Air Damper door can be closed / not operational. Automatic air Dampers are controlled either by a thermistor or a thermostat. If the temp sensor source has failed the Air Damper door does not move. This appears to be a pretty basic unit so I am guessing that it has a mechanical Air-Damper with no temperature control. I.e selecting fresh food temp just moved the damper plastic door open or closed depending on selected temperature.
These units were new / in the stores around the year 2005 so it is probably around 6 years old. That is when fans start acting up in the 6 - 10 year period of their working life. I.e they need a bit if attention...
There are units out there that do not even have a condenser fan but have a large condenser coil on the back of the unit for heat dissipation. I do not have total IPL access (only partial) for this particular model so you will have to find a local parts source if you identify any failures.
Lastly... if you discover that there is a block of ice in the evaporator coils you may have an automatic defrosting problem. The ice blocks the coils... the freezer says cool.. the evaporator fan runs... but the fresh food compartment warms up. Eventually the ice block gets so large that the freezer also starts warming up enough for ice cream to become soft or an ice maker to stop working. All because the unit is not automatically defrosting. If you discover a large block of ice... unplug the unit and direct a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours with the freezer contents removed. (Makes a water mess!) Once defrosted return the unit to normal service and check the temps 6 - 8 hours later. They should be normal. Here is the kicker... if there is an automatic defrosting problem the ice build up will return. Automatic defrost system failures are:
1. Defrost control (most common failure)
2. Defrost heating element
3. Defrost thermostat / thermistor (depending on which is used)
4. Defrost circuit wiring
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Apr 14, 2011
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