Kingfisher halogen pir flood light wiring digram

If it has a sensor adjust the sensitivity down and it will help it if not fix it

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Several possibilities. First use standard light bulbs until it is working. Some of the PIR have triac outputs which need a minimum amount of current to work. CFL and LED lights can be a problem with electronic switches/dimmers.

The PIR needs electricity to operate. The black and white wire are probably power and return, there is no neutral to connect to the PIR. Unless you can get a different PIR that does not need line power to operate you are out of luck. There may be some that can cycle steal power and would work but I am not familiar with them.

I assume the three way is a three way PIR and the lights that are flickering are electronic such as LED or CFL.

If you talk to one of the people where you bought the switch they may help you free of charge.

Good Luck

It appears you do not have it wired correctly. If you want help a better description is needed. I would think the brown wire needs to be connected to something.

It appears this device is rate 10 amps at 230 volts = 2300 watts.
Use at least #14 wire and 15 amp breaker.
Connect wire at connection point on light.
Unit appears to have a transformer, and might make humming sound.
There is override located somewhere on unit. Possibly as a button on the motion sensor

If infrared motion detector requires separate wiring connection, then use following wiring illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-motion-sensor-230V.jpg

Motion sensor will probably have 2 settings.
1st setting for sensitivity, so it will not activate when cat walks up driveway.
2nd setting for time duration, selectable from 30 seconds to 7 minutes

ML FL09SBK IP44 36W Fluorescent PIR Floodlight c/w Lamp

IP44 Low Energy Floodlight c/w PIR & Override.
Black finish.
T4 twist and lock lampholder.
36 Watt 6500k T4 spiral compact fluorescent lamp included.
(replacement lamp - product code FL09L).
Electrical termination via 10 Amp connector block within secure enclosure c/w cord grip.
PIR detection range of 12 meters at 2 meter height from ground.
Detection arch of 160 degrees.
Time range 30 seconds to 7 minutes.
Manual override.

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They all wire the same. The black wire on the PIR connects to the incoming (usually black) hot or switched wire. The red wire on the PIR connects to the light(s), usually a black wire. The white (neutral) wire from the PIR connects to BOTH the incoming white wire and the white wire that goes to the light(s).

find one:
http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-04731-Halogen-Flood-Bulb/dp/B000SMJYLQ

This should replace any existing single pole (one location) switch. You have two wires on the pir, black and blue and then the ground. The black hooks to the hot or common wire. It may be black, but it will be the hot wire. The blue wire hooks to the wire going to the light. The ground hooks to the green or bare.

Hi Jay,
Ive suspect that there's a problem in the main line of the wiring. Since four halogen bulb are already replaced with a new bulb and bypassed the dimmer switch concentrate now on the wiring and the main panel board. Look for a tripped/busted breaker on the box, reset it.Replaced if busted. If nothing works, you need to check the wiring on the ceiling for open.
Hope it may help you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using fixya.
JDVillanueva

I am going to stick my neck out a little with this one although I agree with BoomerP. The clue of halogen bulbs is feeding my answer. Halogen bulbs require a high voltage transformer to operate and won't normally work with a dimmer but I never tried it. Bypassing the switch should bring them on though. If you have the proper voltage at the switch and they don't work with the switch bypassed, its probably a bad transformer in the fixture. Good Luck. Be careful.

You will need to change it as there is no way to correct this.