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Re: Water authority turned off water & washer not working...
Disturbing the water supply caused sediment to flow in and block the inlet screen(s) on your washer. Take the supply hoses off and look inside the part they screwed off of to find screens. Remove the screens and clean. Reinstall. Check that there are not filter style hose washers in either end of the supply hoses which may need to be cleaned out.
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I understand that you are having trouble with water entering into your washer. Here are a couple of things to check out.
1) The water supply is possibly not adequate in the area where the washer is located. Check another faucet in the house. Wait until water supply and pressure increase.
2) The water supply faucets are not completely open. Fully open hot and cold faucets.
3) The water is being used elsewhere in the house. Water pressure must be at least 30 psi. Avoid running water elsewhere while washer is filling.
4) The water inlet hoses are kinked. Straighten hoses
If you are still having issues, I would suggest to contact a local authorized technician. When they come out they can take a look at the appliance up-close and determine what exactly is going on.
Hi, a Kenmore washer that is not filling with water may have clogged inlet screens. Place a bucket underneath the hoses to catch any leftover water. Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply. Remove the water hoses from the back of the washer and inspect the screens inside the inlet ports. Often, these clog with sediment. Clean the screens with a small toothbrush. After cleaning, reattach the hoses and turn the water supply and power back on.
Another reason the washer might not fill is something interfering with the water pump. Check the connecting hoses on the water pump to make sure they are not clogged. With the hoses disconnected, check the water pump for obstructions.
The technical details of this fault code are shown in the first image below. This information is valid for most Kenmore HE2+ washers. It is likely that it will apply to your model. If the washer is not filling with any water, check the water supply faucets behind the washer to make sure that they are properly open. If you are using a floodsafe device as shown in the second image on your water supply lines, I recommend replacing this device with normal water supply hoses. The floodsafe device will not work properly on most washers. Turn off the water supply faucets and remove the supply hoses from the connection on the back of the washer. Check the inlet screens on the back of the washer for debris or deposits that could prevent the washer from filling properly. Clean the screens if necessary and carefully replace them after flushing the inlet to the water valves thoroughly with water. (Failure to properly flush the inlet area could result in debris getting past the screens and fouling the inlet water valves.) While the water supply hoses are still disconnected from the back of the washer, place the ends of the hoses in a bucket and briefly turn on the water supply faucets to check the water pressure and flow from them. If the water supply is inadequate, you may need a plumber to resolve this problem. If the washer still won't fill after checking these issues, then you could have a failure in the solenoid water fill valves for the washer. You could also have a wiring failure or a problem with the electronic control board.
If the washer is filling, your problem would likely be in the water level pressure switch or the air pressure tube between the bottom of the tub and the pressure switch. A wiring failure or control board problem could also prevent the water level from being properly detected. To access the water level pressure switch, you can unplug the washer and remove the top panel. Screws at the very back of the top panel secure it to the washer. Remove these screws and then pull the top panel slightly back and then up and off the top of the washer. The water level pressure switch is normally on the rear of the right side panel of the washer. Check the air pressure hose and wiring connections. If no problems are found, you may need to replace this part.
Turn off the
water valves which supply the water to washer hoses.Switch the hot and cold water supply hoses
and tighten. Turn the water valves back on and try to run a wash cycle using
cold. If hot water only is entering the wash tub the water supply is ok. If
this is the case you can unplug the washer and turn off the water valves. Remove
the washer back cover and follow the water connection for the hot water. The
water solenoid valve will have two electrical wires connected
to it. Interchange the hot water solenoid wires with the cold water solenoid connection.
Connect the water supply hoses hot to hot and cold to cold then plug the unit then
test the washer on the cold wash. If the problem persists it could be a water
hose restriction or the timer circuit could be defective. If you have hot water
at the normal pressure purchase a new hot water solenoid valve.With the electrical cord unplugged be sure to
restore the correct wire connections on the hot and cold water solenoid. To
replace the hot water solenoid remove the hose clamp and hose to replace the
old valve. Connect the unit to the water and electrical outlet. Turn on the
water and test the unit for leaks being careful not to touch any electrical and
moving parts. If all checks ok and the correct temperature work, unplug the unit
Check that the wash temperature has not been turned down accidentally. If not, then the most likely and obvious cause of this is the element has become faulty and needs replacing. This could also be caused by various other problems such as a faulty thermostat, resettable fuse links or activated over temperature detector, fused links in the power supply, faulty logic board, etc. Call a service engineer ASAP.
Have you tried checking your cold water supply faucet? Are you sure there is cold water running out of that faucet before you hooked up the hose? Is it possible there is a shut off on the supply valve that isn't turned on? Therefore it will not run on cold water setting? This actually happened to me once. We went away for a week and turned the water off for the hot and cold supplys. Came back to do laundry and only turned the hot one on and not the cold. Good luck!
The "nf" code is a "no-fill" fault. This indicates that your washing is
not getting water supplied to it, or the pressure isn't substantial
enough to complete a fill. You need to, first, make sure the water
supply is turned on. Second, if the water IS turned on, and you're
still not getting anything to your washer, you may have a fill valve
problem. The fill valve is what both your hoses connect to on the back
of the machine. It can become clogged with sediment over time
(especially, if you have hard water or well water). Turn the water
supply off and remove both hoses from the back of the washer. Check
both these hose connections for clogs in the filter screens. If they
are clear, then more than likely the fill valve has gone bad. I hope
this helps you.
Slow fill problems can usually be attributed to a clogged or defective water inlet valve (also known as a mixing valve). If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you are using well water, there's a good chance you have sediment or rust build up in the water inlet valve. Sometimes a good cleaning is all that takes to correct this problem. The inlet valve is located where the fill hoses are connected. Accessing it will depend upon the make and model of you washer. Since you posted no model number, the instructions I'm providing are generic in nature. If you wish to clean the valve, do the following:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the fill hoses and inspect the sediment screens on the fill valve (located on the back of the washer).
3. Using cottom swabs, you can clean the sediment screens using some distilled vinegar. If the valve is heavily encrusted with hard water deposits, using a toothpick (along with the distilled vinegar) can help break up these deposits and clear the screens.
You may have to remove the entire inlet valve and let it soak in distilled vinegar to break up serious deposits. If it comes to that, open the washer to access the fill valve and disconnect the electrical connectors on the valve solenoids (there's usually two of them). Remove the rubber hose leading to the dispenser, and then remove the mounting screw(s) holding the valve in place. It comes out pretty easily. DO NOT submerge the entire valve when allowing it to soak. Keep the solenoid connectors as dry as possible. If the vinegar does not work, you may try some retail products that get rid of scale, rust and lime deposits. Although I do not get into the business of promoting any one product over another, CLR comes to mind as a product that does work well.
If you do not wish to go through all of this and/or cleaning does not work for you. It is recommended that you replace the valve. Let me know what you decide to and I can assist you further. I hope this is helpful to you.
PS A replacement water inlet valve generally costs in the neighborhood of $30 - $50.