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is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
to multiple power amplifiers.
With colour coded wires, red is + and black is - . On the two pole connectors part the + is the inner one and - is the outer node surrounding it. If you're not sure take the connector off and check which wire goes where. Red is always +. Better yet, use a DC tester or make your own using a LED of sufficient current rating (12V in your case). With all diodes current only goes one way from + to -, so it'll emit light if it's connected properly and not, if it's not.
D4 light is an error from the TCU (transmission control unit), so you
got something going on with your transmission. If you want to pull the
error code, remove the passengers side kick panel and look for a pair of
wires with a blue connector at the end. Stick a paper clip or some
other piece of wire into each hole of the connector to short the wires.
Put your key in the ignition and turn 2 clicks. The D4 light will
flash the code...short flashes=1 and long flashes=10. Add the number of
short and long flashes to get your code. Errors are below:
0-Transmission control unit (TCU) faulty. 1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted. 4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer. 5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted. 6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open. 7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted. 10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted. 11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted. 12-(No code 12 used) 13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted. 14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted. 15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.
OPEN IT UP THE SHORT MAY BE WERE THE 2 POWER WIRES COME TOGETHER AS THEY ENTER THE RADIO THIS HAPPENS ALOT OR DESOLDER ONE OF THE WIRES OFF THE CIRCUIT BOARD AND CHECK FOR A SHORT ON THE WIRES AGAIN THIS WILL TELL YOU ALOT IF IT IS THE WIRES OR IF IT IS ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD GOOD LUCK
ive had problems kinda like this ... normaly its a crossed or reversed speaker wire check the positive and negitive wire into the speakers "they move sometimes when there is more air moving around the speaker"
second make sure you have the impedence correct "possitive to positive negitive to negitive'
If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following. I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.
If your cable has four ends at one side and two at the other connect positive to the amp and negitive to the amp for first speaker then go to the four cable end put in the first negitive to the top speaker input then the positive side and do the same for the bottom,also remember to take out the links between the sockets,now do the same for the other speaker.
Please note that some speakers dont sound much better when bi-wired but some gain a bit more bass and detail,also the sound stage may open up a little more.
hope this helps.
If I don't ask the stupid questions first, I always get burned! Have you tried removing both the +12V and remote connections from the amp and letting it sit for a few minutes? If the amp doesn't automatically reset (and you have removed the condition that caused it in the first place), your amp may need repair, as it might have shorted something internally.