Question about Amana ARB2557CSR / ARB2557CSL Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

7 Answers

Warming i have an amana ARB2557CSR bottom freezer refrigerator. on thanksgiving i noticed it was warming. i unplugged unit for 12 hours and plugged back in. i had no problems for 4 weeks. then on christmas the same thing happened and i again unplugged unit for 10 hours then again in 2 weeks the same problem. the unit makes a humming noise like the compressor is trying to start but then shuts down. i think it may be a defrost problem? how can i check components? Thank You

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  • jsr0235 Jan 06, 2009

    i have an amana ARB2557CSR bottom freezer refrigerator. on thanksgiving i noticed it was warming. i unplugged unit for 12 hours and plugged back in. i had no problems for 4 weeks. then on christmas the same thing happened and i again unplugged unit for 10 hours then again in 2 weeks the same problem. when this happens the unit makes a humming noise like the compressor is trying to start but then shuts down. i think it may be a defrost problem. the unit is about 4 years old, it is cleaned regularly behind in the compressor area. does the compressor defrost as well? could it be building up ice and when i unplug for 10 hours it melts?

  • jsr0235 Jan 06, 2009

    yes i have changed heater coils in dryers re soldered mother boars and many other technical repairs i also have testing meters and tools i just dont know were to start.

  • jsr0235 Jan 06, 2009

    why would the compressor run great for 4 weeks at a time?

  • jsr0235 Jan 06, 2009

    the compressor runs great for the 4 weeks in between the problem

  • jsr0235 Jan 06, 2009

    i am looking for technical advise on were to test for the defrost cycle. i have a meter and would like to test continuity and power flow? also the fan power location?

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7 Answers

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What are the respective temps in the freezer and refrigerator sections right now? While tsting temps, check the rear inside panel in the freezer section and let me know if you see frost beginning to build up on the rear inside panel.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 06, 2009

    To get you going until the fan motor can be replaced, grab a household
    fan and remove the rear cover of the refrigerator. Next, set the fan
    behind it and turn it on. Leave it run 24 hours a day until you
    replace the fan motor and you won't even know your refrigerator is
    broken....with the exception of the refrigerator being a few feet away
    from the wall.

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 06, 2009

    Sure sounds like the control board is your problem. One of the relays is shorting

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 06, 2009

    adjust ur cooler setting

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 06, 2009



    Go behind the unit and remove the lower rear cover. Check the condenser fan motor and tell me if it is running
    aside from real problems beyond the average home do-it-yourselfer, the
    only other thing I can recommend for you to check is the area where the
    fan motor I requested you to check being real dirty thus blocking air
    flow. This would not allow freon to get rid of the heat as fast as it
    should. To verify this, remove the rear panel inside the freezer
    section and check the evaporator coils. When the compressor has been
    running for at least 1/2 hour, all the coils should be frost....top to
    bottom and front to back. Using a wet finger, touch sections of these
    coils and let me know if your finger sticks to all sections. Enjoy
    your holiday weekend

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  • 326 Answers

Hello after giving your problem a complete thought.i have reached to a conclusion that it is definately a faulty defrost timer problem.every time the timer tries to start the defrost but fails to do so as it is faulty.resulting to which the refrigerator does not carry out the defrost procedure which is needed to keep the device running properly for a longer period.so it keeps on jamming and clogging up and at the end it starts creating this problem so when u manually OFF it it gets completely defrosted and again works for a particular period.i would suggest you to replace the timer to solve this problem. if u require timer or any other parts for ur device .u can purchase it from the link below: http://www.repairclinic.com/

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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Usually this happens if the compressor is overworked and when it tries to cool the interior in an attempt to reach it's optimal cooling capacity. But, warming actually happens when too much ice build-up is on the side of the interior or whenever it has reached maximum cooling state, it goes to a temporary powe down just like on a thermostat when it detcts that the needed or required temperature has been reached and then tries to reboot itself once the temperature drops from the ideal range of the one that it is set to.

I would say this is normal, but if heat is actually too hot to touch to the point of almost burning your skin, or scalds your skin, this would be considered as a safety hazard thus, to prevent any further danger to property and self, please have a well trained technician check it for you. In this way we can prevent any unforeseen events such as fire.

Thank you.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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  • 19,396 Answers

If you have ice formation on the coils at the back of the fridge, check first the evaporator system.

Check that the evaporator fan is start and running.

If this is working fine, the problem is a condenser under stress because the compressor is starting to fail.

The compressor is guaranteed from factory for five years, call the number listed on the owner manual to get support.
Or contact Amana at teh number on website , for US and Can. see:Contact Us.

You also find parts and diagrams for your fridge here.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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  • 367 Answers

I apologize for the quick answer but this definitely sounds like the compressor is failing.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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  • 199 Answers

U can open the back cover of the freezer to get access to the components.also tell me do u have a technical exp to handle such device so that i can send u the checking procedure

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • mrrightt Jan 06, 2009



    following things can cause this problem:
    The inside of the freezer
    The outside back of the refrigerator
    The bottom of the refrigerator
    The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:



    • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.


    • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.


    • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.

    Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

    To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

    The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).



    • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.


    • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.


    • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.

    The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

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  • 3,422 Answers

HI,

Noise can come from these areas:

The inside of the freezer
The outside back of the refrigerator
The bottom of the refrigerator
The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

  • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.


  • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.


  • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.


Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

  • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.


  • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.


  • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.


The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • Priya darshan Jan 06, 2009

    To fix a humming noise:

    Step1
    Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and unplug
    it. Refrigerators are very heavy, so get help moving it and do not tip
    or rock it.




    Step2
    Find the condenser coils on the refrigerator. These coils disperse
    heat, so cleaning them improves the effectiveness of the refrigerator
    which helps stop the refrigerator from humming. To locate the coils,
    you will need to check your refrigerator owner's manual as they may be
    rear mounted or floor mounted coils.




    Step3
    Remove the dust build up on the condenser coils with a vacuum cleaner
    or condenser brush. If there is a large amount of build up on the
    refrigerator coils, you can use mild soapy water to more thoroughly
    clean them.




    Step4
    Clean the grill on the front of the refrigerator as it will also help
    eliminate the humming noise. The grill on front of the refrigerator
    should snap off and on, but check for screws first. Then pull firmly
    toward you to remove the grill.


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