Question about Whirlpool AWM6120 Front Load Washer

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Whirlpool AWM6120 powers off mid-cycle

My Whirlpool AWM6120 powers off mid-cycle usually in the "wash" section. The door will be locked. Nothing will provide a solution except to turn the wash selector knob to the "neutral" section and then choose a short cycle like "drain" and hope it will complete. I'm guessing that it might be the wash selector module that needs to be replaced?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • pt38 Jan 06, 2009

    Draining works so I'm not sure it's the problem. However the link to the manual which I have downloaded was worth it. Thanks.

  • pt38 Jan 07, 2009

    24 hours later and I'm somewhat wiser. The machine will drain and finishe properly - "opne door" LED lights at the end of the cycle. Similarly if I out into spin mode. The pressure switch appears to be working. The pump does drain. The drum does spin all the way to 1200 rpm. It just won't complete any wash cycle - drum takes on the water, it swishes then dies. Anybody want to take me on a path of elimination?

  • pt38 Jan 07, 2009

    Another 8 hours and it now looks like the problem is related to the drum. It vibrates violently just before everything dies - power goes, LEDs turn off. If I run the machine with no clothes in it (don't laugh) it runs perfectly - finishes the program cycle and the drum doesn't vibrate at all. Could it be that the shock absorber is at fault but if it is then how is the vibration detected by the system that causes the machine to close down? Last chance!

  • pt38 Jan 07, 2009

    No abnormal sounds or warning lights before everything goes off. Just the drum starts to vibrate violently and then it dies. Even if I can get the machine to run a full cycle with clothes in the drum, I'm concerned about the vibration - it is extreme!





  • pt38 Jan 07, 2009

    Machine goes through full wash cycle with the drum empty and there is no vibration. That would seem to indictate that the wash selector is not at fault.

    When I put clothes in the drum vibrates violently and the machine dies.

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Tilt the machine back and check that the blue clips that secure the suspension legs to the base are in place and both the legs are secured top and bottom.
The vibration sensor could also be the culprit (as you state it washes fine with no clothes)
Have you verified the machine is level?

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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The TIMER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM!

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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  • Master
  • 416 Answers

It looks like it is faulty timer or wash selector control module.
The machine just can not advance.
So if mashine is under warranty you need to bring it for repaire
If not you can look for the part here depending where you are
http://www.appliancepartsdirect.co.uk/store/product/20162/WMA4545---Module/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?aplbrand=40&model=AWM6120+&x=36&y=12
Good Luck

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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Hi there
Try disconnecting the machine from the mains for and hour or so to see if the selector module resets itself, if that doesn't work then you have to replace the wash selector module.
Use other presets that still work until you have the replacement part

Good luck and kind regards

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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  • Contributor
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HI

This advice is for Kenmore Elite HE and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER washing machines displaying the "F06" error code. The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 – is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.

I hope this information is helpful.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • CIRCUIT COOLGUY
    CIRCUIT COOLGUY Jan 07, 2009

    F29 is a Door Latch Unlock error. This occurs after the door attempts to lock 6 times. With no successful lock achieved, the error code will be generated. Check the following:
    First, UNPLUG the washer in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that required in order to clear momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code reappears, proceed to step 2.
    Check the door switch/latch for foreign objects that may have become lodged in the mechanism and may be preventing it from operating.
    Check the wiring harness from the CCU to the door latch. The harness can be accessed by removing the washer top panel. Remove the panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then off.


  • CIRCUIT COOLGUY
    CIRCUIT COOLGUY Jan 07, 2009

    F27 is an Overflow Condition error. If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door may remain locked, and the Drain Pump may run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. This is verbatim from the tech sheet. You will need to check to following: 
    1. First, UNPLUG the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code reappears, proceed to step 2.
    2. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
    3. Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
    4. Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects.
    5. Check for Drain Pump Failure.
    6. Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off
    7. Check the Pressure switch for proper operation.


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If Your Qualified Take The ****** Apart And Make Sure Everything Inside Looks Good. But First What Does It Do When It Gets To The Spin Cycle? Any Sound Or Clicks? Error Lights Anything?

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • Michael Fisher
    Michael Fisher Jan 07, 2009

    Yes Check And Replace Bumpers Inside. The Machine Will Shut Down If It Feels The Load Is Really Unbalanced. Take It Apart And Have A Look Or Call Service. Thank You And I Hope This Helps

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This might be temperature sensor :)



The way to fix this wld be :)


Unplug the machine from the wall socket or turn the power off to the sockets. At the very bottom front of the machine is a cover held on by 4 torx screws, take this off. You'll see the white sump of the machine and the ntc sticking out of it. It has two thin blue wires going to it. It twist and pulls out. Replacement is push in and twist.
To get a replacement take the first of the two 12 digit numbers printed on the label, right hand side of the door. Should start something like 85.
Phone or go to a local repair shop and they should be able to get one for you....

Take Care.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Jan 06, 2009

    If its not fixed, is there any error code flashing :(





    If not,



    Take the left hand panel off, at the bottom of the plastic tank is two wire connector, pull it off, push it back on and try the machine.
    If the problem persists the next thing to check is the pressure switch, take out the filter screen and you'll see the black grid in the sump of the machine, clean it out carefully, if you burst the membrane it's useless.
    Try it again. If it still doesn't work, check the water hose isn't kinked.
    Finally if that doesn't cure it, get the yellow pages out, you need an engineer............





    If its all set, buzz me , Thaan we will try some other tricks :)





    Thanks.

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Yes you are right you need to replace the wash selector module If your unit is under warranty you can replace it free of cost .

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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Drain failure or not detecting empty drum.

Check pressure switch, blocked drain, drain pump.

See link below for service manual.


http://www.user-manuals.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=857081253000&forward=plist

http://www.espares.co.uk/parts/washing-machines/whirlpool/awm6120-(857061215000)/p/1085/278/0/710421

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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  • Whirlpool Master
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That is a faulty control assembly, the control board must be tested, almost for sure there is a fault in there.

Also a short on heating element or other part can cause similar event, depending on what part of the cycle the machine shuts down.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 06, 2009

    Two event can cause this:

    The control assembly board (wash selector module) is defective, and at a certain point cause the shut down.

    One of the parts has a short, and when this is powered the machine shuts down.

    For example if the machine shuts down when it starts draining , it may be a shorted drain pump solenoid or wiring.
    If the machine turns off on heated cycles, in the middle of the cycle, then it is likely a short on heating element wires.

    Try entering model number here to see if they have diagrams for your model.



  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 07, 2009

    I told you, washers shut down or break cycle when they energize a defective part during the cycle.

    If the washer stops on heated cycles only, then it is a shorted heating element for example.

    The fact that washer completes shorter cycles also do not exclude a defective motherboard.

    If washer stops on rinse for example, and completes no rince cycles, it may be a short on the board rinse contacts to motor control unit, or a defective motor control unit, that is an additional board placed on the lower side inside the appliance, near to the motor.

    The most likey is either a shorted wiring, a faulty heating element, or a bad control.



  • Ginko
    Ginko Jan 09, 2009

    I quote your sentence: "Machine goes through full wash cycle with the drum empty and there is
    no vibration. That would seem to indictate that the wash selector is
    not at fault.

    When I put clothes in the drum vibrates violently and the machine dies."

    That is unmistakenly a defective drum bearing, the fact is that bad drum bearing do not turn off the machine.

    The only explanation is that vibration is creating a short or a broken contact somewhere inside the machine while the drum bearing is defective.

    This is a job for a good technician.




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