Re: Palomar 150watt bi-linear amplifier for c.b....
OPEN IT UP THE SHORT MAY BE WERE THE 2 POWER WIRES COME TOGETHER AS THEY ENTER THE RADIO THIS HAPPENS ALOT OR DESOLDER ONE OF THE WIRES OFF THE CIRCUIT BOARD AND CHECK FOR A SHORT ON THE WIRES AGAIN THIS WILL TELL YOU ALOT IF IT IS THE WIRES OR IF IT IS ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD GOOD LUCK
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sniff around inside ,see if there is the smell of burnt wire or other componants.If it turns on see if there is a componant that starts to smoke.If it does change it and see what happens.this is called trouble shooting.
If its in a car or truck use heavy gauge wire to power it. I use a 3ft jumper between the radio and amp. Should use a grounded antenna system. Not a "MAG MOUNT" type. Those can "feed back" rf to your radio and cause problems. If using in the house, a large power supply will be needed.I own a palomar elite 400 hd.It uses every bit of my 30amp power supply. Your hd amp should like the hp radio.
Radio 12v blue/yellow + radio harness Radio Ground brown - radio harness Radio Ignition gray + radio harness Radio Illumination green + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on N/A Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- pink - purple +,- radio harness or amplifier RF Speaker +/- lt. green - blue +,- radio harness or amplifier LR Speaker +/- black - yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier RR Speaker +/- red - white +,- radio harness or amplifier
Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is on the passenger side rear cabin wall.
Nope, 6LQ6's are the tube used in most all Palomar CB linears. Most tube type linears of that class have one 6LQ6 driving two or three 6LQ6's. As far as the T/R relay keying as power is supplied, you have an electrolytic capacitor shorted in the Carrier Operated Relay. My advice: get a pro to fix it, as there is 800 to 900 volts DC at a quarter of an amp on the B+ circuit, which is more than enough to kill you if you make a mistake. Too many Hams and CBer's have died that way, I do not want you to have the same accident. Find a reputable repair guy, then pay the price. It's safer that way. Good Luck,
If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following. I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.
It's possible that you have a shorted speaker wire. If one of the speaker wires is pinched, grounded or shorted it will cause the deck's internal amplifier to shut down. The easiest way to check is with a multimeter's resistance function.
Remove the CD player and unplug it. Set your multimeter for "resistance" or "continuity". Attach the black probe to chassis ground; you can use the black ground wire in the deck's harness, clean dash metal, or the outer ring of your cigarette lighter. Use the red probe to test each of the speaker outputs in the harness: white, gray, green and violet. If you find a speaker wire that shows any continuity with chassis ground, then that's the cause of the problem.
A speaker with a damaged voice coil may also cause the deck to shut down. To test this, probe the positive and negative leads of each speaker and test the resistance between them. For example, to test the left front speaker you'd put the red probe on the white wire and the black probe on the white/black wire. Each speaker should read a minimum of 3 ohms of resistance. If you get a lower reading then it might be causing your problem.
If you don't find a problem with any of the speaker wires, then chances are the deck's internal amplifier has failed.