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Whirpool frost free-fridge temp is not working

My whirlpool frost free is not working at the right temp.The fridge is warm and now i have to throw the meat away.Any clues of why it is not working ?Also it has been making noises from the past month ?

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The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds. 
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
� If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
� If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • chapli Jan 06, 2009

    Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
    Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
    clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
    - check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan   ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
    - If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal


    fridge makes a bang noise when it shuts off: Sorry to say most times this is a faulty compressor. A compressor is a electric motor and pump mounted from springs inside the black dome, if one of these springs stretches or breaks the motor and pump hits the outer casing dome and bangs when it shuts off. Other things to check for, tubing touching one another, something fallen behind the fridge, condenser fan motor blade hitting something, defrost condensing pan out of place.




  • chapli Jan 06, 2009

    Three of the most common fridge noise makers are the evaporator fan motor,condenser fan motor and the defrost timer. The evaporator fan motor is in the freezer section. Often when the freezer door is opened, the noise will get louder. The condenser fan motor is at the back bottom of the fridge. The defrost timer can be found in several different spots, at the back of the fridge, inside the fridge or under at the front are some common areas to find the defrost timer. Do not attempt to oil any of these parts, replacing them is the best repair.


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