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Millerbobcat225gplus/serial#kf866447 weldingmachine/generator machine will not fire in start position when start switch is released to run position it will fire and pop loudly through the exhaust it has a 16hp onan performer engine

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How old is unit ?? bad switch, motor needs tune up??cam ,valves, compression???

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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Serial number miller AEAD 200LE JF 885778


Check this out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-AEAD-200LE-CONSTANT-CURRENT-AC-DC-ARC-WELDING-GENERATOR-GAS-POWERED-/310368057796?pt=BI_Welders&hash=item484360b9c4

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GW450001AC Where can I find a manual? Where can I find the locking connectors on the welding machinge for the welding cables? Are they called small Dintz? Will this machine run 1/8 welding rod?


Try to find the manual from your local tool trader, or go to the manufactures website and give them the serial # and and you can print a manual. I've done it with heavy equipment. To buy the quick connects, just look up welding supply in the yellow pages. Always buy your welding tools and supplies from a lisceansed welding supply. And yes you can weld with 1/8th rod, but you have to turn it up to 140 to do so, and use a 7018 rod

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Bobcat 225, machine is idling way to high and will not idle back or shut down when switched to off position. Could this be the soleniod on top of motor connected to throttlelinkage?


It could be and the governor sticking to wide open throttle, try the linkage at the full fuel position with the engine off and see if it sticks when in full fuel mode, there could also be an intake leak but would not cause it to run with the switch off that is a different problem. let me know if you need more help.

Nov 27, 2009 | Welding Tools

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Miller welder serial number KF957066. Please tell me about this machine is it a generator type or three phase? It is in an auction and was wondering about it. Never saw one in my life although I have been...


Miller welders are great. I've been around them a long time as an electrician in the mines years ago. They make a 3 phase model and a motor gen type too. They are both good welders in my opinion.

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We have a dielectric welder model HFT-10 made by High Frequency Technology Inc.They are no longer in the dielectric business so they can't help me. The problem is when you cycle the machine it operates...


This is a pretty complicated machine and you will need professional help to diagnose the problem There is an electronic tube (similar to the old vacuum tube technology of the '50's) that generates the high frequency necessary to weld with. I found a company that makes high freq. welders and you may be able to go through them.
You may be able to find a Radio Technician that would understand the principals involved in the high frequency generator and how to troubleshoot it. It may only be a problem on the low voltage (240VAC) side of the welder that is causing your problem. A good electrical technician/electrician could troubleshoot most of it. here is a link...
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UST GG5500 generator no A/C output when I first start


Plug something into the outlet and have the breaker on when you start the generator. If it has an automatic idle control, turn that on too. A load will energise the generator.

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Miller Big 40 will not weld and has no current at the A/C outlet


open inspection door,which also the fine tuner knob is ,there's a 2x4 size circut board that snaps out with little force to remove,this is the voltage regulator board,look for 4700 ohm resisitor burnt into,tv tech can fix or order new board at $227.00 what i paid.

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Millerbobcat225gplus welding machihe w/onan16hp performer engine


carb is probly gumed up. I would put in a good dose of fuel injector cleaner in the fuel and start the engine llet it run 5 minites shut idown. What 2 days then restart,it should run fine. PS put sunoco ultra fuel in tank before you put in clean4er.drain tank before you start.

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Welder not charging battery


Most engine driven welders have the charge armature located underneath the flywheel of the engine, but you need to check a couple of other things before you start tearing down the engine. Look for a small rectangular module on the blower housing of the engine, on a Kohler this is at the side, on an Onan it's at the top. This is the rectifier/charger module and it will have 3 wires, the 2 on the outside will be the AC from the armature, and the middle one is the battery charge positive. With the engine not running, use a DC voltmeter to measure the voltage between this middle tab and the engine block, you should see a voltage that's very nearly equal to the battery voltage. If you don't see a voltage there you may have either a blown fuse, a tripped circuit breaker, or a broken wire leading to the battery. On some welders the fuse or circut breaker is inside the welder cabinet on the bulkhead between the engine and the generator parts of the welder.
If you did see battery voltage at the charge terminal, start the engine, switch the voltmeter to measure AC voltage and measaure the voltage from one of the outside terminals to the other, you should see 15 volts or more (be careful not to short out anything). If you get a nice AC voltage, switch back to DC and measure the charge output again (engine block to middle tab), it should be greater than the battery voltage we measured before and it should be slowly getting greater, if not the rectifier/charger module is bad.
If you didn't see enough AC going into the module, stop the engine, disconnect the plug from the module and use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the 2 outside wires that go back to the engine, something between 100 and 1500 ohms is good. If you measure an open circiut (OL on my meter) or if you measure 0 ohms, the armature is probably bad. You have to take the flywheel off the engine to see the armature. If you got a good restance reading but the voltage is still low you may have one or more broken magnets inside the flywheel, again you have to do some serious disassembly to see if that's the case.

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