Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
Dryer starts but does not heat. I am sure it is the heating element. What do I remove to access the part?
Depends on where the lint filter is at.
a top lint filter has the element behind the rear panel and a front filter has the element behind the front bottom panel at the right of base.
be sure to remove the element and look to see if it is broken. elements are like light bulbs, if they break then it wont heat. if its not broken then you might have an open thermal fuse. they are also on the element housing and have 2 wires on them. they are about 1 inch in diameter and need to be checked with a continuity meter.
if you can, remove the housing, then mark the wires, and take it to a local parts house and they will check them for you for free.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
Are you sure its the heating element? There are several problems that can cause a no heat problem. The following link explains:
You should first check the voltage at the receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC. The paragraph at the bottom of the link explains.
You can access the heating circuits by removing the lower panel under the door. The panel comes off by inserting a putty knife in the seam between the top of the panel and the lower portion of the door about two inches in on each side and depressing the release tabs. The heating element, thermal cut-out and high limit thermostat are all located within the heat box on the right hand side. Make sure you check all components with the dyrer UNPLUGGED. Live voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer won't heat
First, check and see if the thermal fuse is blown. It is located just inside the rear of the dryer and should be attached to the exhaust duct. It is about one inch long and can be tested using a multimeter or ohm meter for continuity. If there is no continuity, then the fuse is bad and will need replaced. While in there, you can meter the heating element in the same way. Sure hope this helped and best wishes.
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
What design dryer do you have? Is the filter on the top or in the front of dryer. This will make a differance on how the dryer comes apart.
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.
If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
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