If you look in most panels the ground and the neutrals are tied to the same ground. they might be in a different location within the panel but they are common to each other. if you are concerned about having a seperate ground get yourself a ten foot, one inch diameter copper rod drive it into the ground about nine foot six inches. then mix up a strong salt water solution, about a couple of gallons and pour it around the rod. voilla, you have an independent ground. this might sound like a bunch of bull ----, but it is valid information. if you still have reservations call the building department in your town and they will verify it for you.
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Hi, The wire coming in should have the same colors, just match up the wire colors and wire nut them together with large wire nuts ad them tape them. ground the green wire to the ground screw. That's all there is to it!
Old plug: green is ground, white and blace are both hot power. New cooktop: green is ground, WHITE is COMMON, black and RED are hot power. You are going to need an electrician to run a new circuit and plug for your new cooktop.
Older 3 wire connectors where Wht=Neutral Ground Return, Red=One Phase Hot, Blk=Second Phase Hot, of 220VAC stove connections.
Newer Electrical code standard has a forth wire that is bare copper for a separate safety ground return. I suggest you but a 4 wire pig tail cable for your stove top, available at Depot or Lowes, and connect 3 wires of this 4 wire cable just like the 3 wires are now connected. The 4th bare copper safety is attached to any metal part of the stove. Find a screw you can loosen to wrap it around and tighten.
You really shouldn't have tried this. If you mixed up the neutral and hot wire YOU COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED!!!! You also could have burned out the fan motor. The fan operates on 120 volts the rest on 220. On most cooktops the frame is grounded to the neutral. If you connected this wrong the entire outside of the cooktop could be live. You might not be shocked if you have on rubber shoes but if you touched the stove barefooted you could be killed! The house wire should have 2 hot wires usuallly black or red. It really doesn't matter which is which. There should be a neutral (usually white or bare) There can also be a seperate ground wire (usually green or bare) If only 3 wires from house connect the white and green together. The minimum wire size should be #10 fused at 30 amps. Test the voltage between the 2 hot wires. It should be 220. Between either hot wire and neutral or ground should be 110 volts .. IF YOU DON"T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING CALL SOMEONE ELSE. This is very dangerous if hooked up wrong.
In a normal house, black and red are the hot wires and are wired to a circuit breaker or fuse at the panel box. White goes to the ground bar. Sometimes the white(neutral) is seperated from the ground. Sometimes they can be connected together. At the fuse box they both go to the silver ground bar. If you are attaching a cord and plug purchase one to match the outlet you have. Usually at the terminal block the hot wires are on the outside. Neutral in the middle. At the terminal block there is a metal strap or wire going from the center terminal to the frame of the stove. If the cord you have is just 3 wires leave it. If the cord you have uses 4 wires remove the strap and connect it seperately to the green or ground wire on the cord.
To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers. The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up... because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral - which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up.... which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.