What these leads actually use for? - Computers & Internet

Actually that's normal operation.

Meters such as this have a range of resistance that they are capable of measuring. When you first turn them on, the resistance across the leads (or in your case, across the lead connections) is basically infinitely. This resistance is beyond the meter's ability to measure and displays that tbe reading is out-of-range, a.k.a. overload.

When you plug the leads in and touch them together. the reading should display correctly, such as 0 ohms (or possibly a small value due to lead resistance.)

Have you checked you're actually getting a spark on all 4? Take out each plug in turn, leave it connected and ensure the metal body of the plug is touching a metal part of the car (the cylinder head will do :) ) Get someone to crank the car for you & see if there's a good, fat spark on the end of the plug. If you find one doesn't have a spark, start by changing over the plug lead with one of the others & see if the fault moves with the lead. If so, replace the faulty lead; actually, I'd replace the set as if one has gone, the others won't be far behind.

There are many other faults that could cause that symptom but I don't know that engine well enough to be much help :(

Let us know how you get on.

Have you replaced the condensor? Do the points actually spark?
Have you checked HT lead and plug cap? Remove cap and place bare end of ht lead on cylinder head so that spark can jump from core to cylinder fin, DON'T hold it there... Kick engine over and look for spark at end of HT lead

Most likely the actual charger unit has failed and is not supplying power to the cable or LED, therefore no charging will be possible. Buy a new charger unit.

There is a single lead wire to the blower motor. Check to see if there is power at that lead. (Use an inexpensive tester from an Auto Parts store). If there IS, the motor is probably shot. If NOT, then you have either a blown fuse or a broken lead wire. Usually, the motor will make odd noise, speed up and down before it actually craps out....

I'm going to assume you can operate and understand a VOM, as well as being able to observe the proper safety procedures for performing service work.
In the case of a control board returning an error code for a failing pressure switch, but the pressure switch actually checks out OK, try this:
Test your exhaust fan power leads for power coming in from the board during the first few seconds at the start of the heating cycle. If power is not showing up there, there is likely another circuit malfunctioning somewhere preventing startup. However, if power is showing up there, then deactivate the system and disconnect the exhaust fan power supply leads from the motor. Test the motor's coil for continuity - a failed exhaust motor coil will result in no vacuum for the pressure switch, hence no heating cycle allowed by the control board.
In my case, the exhaust fan actually failed due to a broken coil lead at the binding post to the push-on connector. I was able to repair the coil lead myself - at no cost - hurray!

Hi, Replacing the rca plug at the end of the cable is just a matter of splicing the wires correctly. The wire is actually a 2 wire line, almost directly under the black outer casing will be the ground wire ( is actually going to be totally wrapped around the center wire ) this will be evident if you look at the cross section where you cut the cord. The replacement end can be purchased at the local Radio Shack, less than $3 probably for a pack of 2. When stripping the casing from the cord be carful not to cut away too much of ground wire sheath ( this may lead to difficulty in attaching new end ) it is almost inevitable to have a few strands of wire cut loose. The next step is to sort of " part " the outer sheathing, then kind of wrap both halves around the inner conductor as close to where you stripped outer sheathing away as possible. Next strip away the inner wires sheathing and you have the two ends to either solder, if you know how to, or tie through the holes of the replacement rca plugs leads. I hope this was of enough help and thank you for asking FixYa, Good luck-Prodzilla

Actually you can change it without the diagram. Simply cut the wires on the motor and leave the terminal ends attached to both the contactor terminals, and possibly the cpacitor if present. Then install your new fan motor replacing the leads from the old one with the leads from the new one.

But if the new motor has different colored leads, usually the brown leads are attached to the capacitor (it doesn't matter which terminal the leads go to, as long as there are only two leads and it is just the fan's capacitor). And then attach the other two leads to where the other two old leads are. (Naturally removing or swapping new wires to where old ones were.)

I have searched but cannot actually find what type male of battery it uses, other than it is a Lead Acid Battery. Now with lead Acid batteries, it is the actual Capacity, in Both Amperage output, and Physical capacity. So based upon that ANY 12 V DC Wet Cell battery of the SAME Physical size, and CURRENT capacity will work. Look on the actual battery itself, it WILL/Should have identifying marks written on it. Get one the same, it is NOT all that critical.

3 lead machines are designed to monitor the cardiac rhythm cycle, in 3 of the 12 primary leads. An attempt to use this limited information as a true diagnostic tool would be incomplete and perhaps misleading.

A full 12-lead machine is diagnostic, and looks at the elecrical information from all sides ("walls", ie anterior, septal, inferior, lateral, posterior) of the heart and gives detailed information regarding ischemia and or infarction of the cardiac muscle, electrical conduction system function, electrical axis, chamber enlargement, drug effects, and more.

Hope this helps.