The thermostat has to be set about 6 degrees higher than true temperature for heating. The thermostat has to be set about 8 degrees cooler than the desired temperature for air conditioning. All in all the remote thermostat is very undesirable. I would like to replace this troublesome piece of junk with a regular wall thermostat.
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Re: remote thermostat off several degrees
If you can locate the sensor the remote thermostat is sending the signal to you may be able to get terminals to wire a thermostat to let me know if it is possible what the terminal letters are normally G is fan, Y is cooling, w is heat, red is 24v hope this helps
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If you are talking about the difference between heating mode and cooling mode and the room setpoint, you can not change it. It comes from the factory with a 3 degree difference. In other words if you raise the heat setpoint until it is within 3 degrees of the cooling setpoint, for every degree you raise the heat setpoint the cooling will raise a degree.
About all you can do is increase the distance between the heat and cooling setpoint. To do this either lower the cooling setpoint to 3 degrees higher than the heat setpoint you want and then increase the cooling setpoint the desired setting. For example heat and cool setpoints are 67 and 70 respectively, and you want 65 and 73. Lower the cooling setpoint to 68 and then raise the cooling setpoint to 73. Now your heating will come on 3 degress lower than 68, the 65 you wanted and cooling will come on at 73. Remember, the thermostat new setpoints will turn on the cooling at 75 and turn back off at 73 and heat will turn on at 63 and turn off at 65.
You can perform the same using the heating setpoint, just have to look at it backwards. If you need to lower the difference I recommend a 8000 series thermostat. They are the most functional thermostat that Honeywell makes, be in mind they are about 3 times more expensive and many of the setting require a well trained tech to interpret and set properly.
Hope this helps.
It sounds like your heating system has to little capacity to heat the home properly. 21 degrees is a reasonable temperature to expect but if the unit is running all the time and can't reach 21 degrees the heater is too small.
As far as setting the thermostat here is a link to the instructions.
If your thermostat has an emergency heat setting this means you have a heat pump system.
Yes you need to set the thermostat to heat for heating the house.
The emergency heat setting should never be used unless your outside unit is not functioning.
The emergency heat setting overides the heat pump (the outside unit will not be energized).
The emergency heat setting will run the auxillary heat (heat strips) only.
When the thermostat is set in the heat position the heat pump will run to heat your house.
If the heat pump can't keep up (extreme cold) then then the auxillary heat will kick in to augment the heat pump until it satisfies the thermostat settings. If your room temperature gets 2 degrees below your thermostat setpoint, your auxillary heat will kick on. Example, say you are going to be gone a couple of days and you turn your heat down to 60 degrees. When you return and it is 60 degrees in your house, you turn the thermostat up to 70 degrees. Since you are turning the temperature up 2 degrees or more (10 degrees in this case) from the 60 degree room temperature then the heat pump will come on and the auxillary heat strips. The unit will continue heating like this until the temperature in the house gets to 69 degrees and the heat strips will turn off and the heat pump will continue to run until the 70 degree setpoint is reached.
Hope this helps.
I would remove front cover and see if your thermostat has a mercury switch.this will be a small vial connected to a bimetallic coil. The vial wiil be about 1/3 full of mercury. It will have a brite silverey appearence.There shoul be two leveling peg on inside of thermostat. Check the level with a torpedo level. it should be very close to level. If not loosen mounting screws that hold stat to wall and gently move base till you have it level. Hold base steady and tighten mounting screws. This should help thermostat setting and actual temperture to be closer. It's not unusual for setting to be off by several degrees.
Since you didn't provide the brand & model of the thermostat, only generic help can be provided.
Most furnaces that run on oil or gas, make hot water all the time, 24 / 7 - winter, summer and everything between so to speak. They are controlled by an aquastat that may be set for any value between 140 - 180 degrees F. This is called "hot start" - simply because when the thermostat is set to a temperature higher than the room (turning heat ON), the water is already hot in the furnace, and is circulated immediately. If it was a "cold start", you'd have to wait for the water in the furnace to heat up from room temperature. This would substantially increase the amount of time it would take to heat the room.
Generally, the "vacation mode" simply halts the program from running. If your thermostat changes temperatures several times during the day / night, it will simply hold the lowest temperature - or a predetermined temperature built in - or chosen by you. You'll need to consult your manual to determine just how your thermostat handles the vacation mode setting. Post again if you can't find the manual - but tell us what brand and model it is.
I hop ethis helps - good luck!
Many heating thermostats don't allow for setting a temperature below 45 degrees F so freeze ups shouldn't be a problem.
69,000 btuh is adequate for a 12-1400 square foot house.
Otherwise, your thermostat simply tells the furnace to cycle on/off.
If it calls for heat and does not come on, the problem is with switches and relays within the furnace.
Your setting the temp higher only causes the other parts to keep trying until they finally light and heat.
This is based on your information saying it will cycle on and blow cool air--not hot air.
You will have several temperature variations from floor to ceiling.
You probably have ceiling vents as well.
You need a technician to verify the rollout switches, fan relay, inducer fan etc. if the furnace is not firing everytime you call for heat.
I don't have the book for this particular unit but, check the sequencers that control the electric heat mode, as the regulator heat pump works good. The part may have a time or temperature delay that is too long for you. Also if it has a remote thermostat, check the heat anticipate setting. You will have to check the installation manuel, but its usually .6 to .8, but I don't think that is the problem.