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Looking for instruction manual on an american standard cleartap filter. trying to remove faucet and filter assembly is stopping me

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The part number (model # ) is required.

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Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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Water leakage at the faucet connection. is it a new D280 that i need? this one is only 2 years old but i can't think of any other reason. now that joel is gone, who do i call in nyc? thanks, j


These European machines have "English" (Whitworth) threads on the hose connectors. They look like American standard (NPT/NPS) threads used on everything here in the States, but are slightly different. Consequently, your hook-up hoses are special, having American NPS threads at the faucet end, and Whitworth threads at the Washer end.
Buy them from Malber. You can find Malber Distribution Corp online, or call them at 516-323-5299. Tell them Mike, in DC, says hi.

Oct 26, 2012 | Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Water comes out of kitchen tap then slows down to nothing at all comin out


If the aerator is clear of debris, there is a valve of sorts in the center of the faucet that diverts water to a spray nozzle (the sprayer on a hose that would be next to the faucet). Even if you don't have the sprayer, most all kitchen faucets have this diverter valve. It's a bit like the thing (in a bathtub/shower combination) that switches the flow from the tub spout to the shower head.

Sometimes, something will work its way into the diverter so that it stops the flow to the tap. It could be a piece of debris (mineral flake, rust flake, etc.) that can be backflushed out. This would require removing the faucet and removing the main valve assembly. Long story short, think about replacing the faucet if the diverter valve is acting up.

Mar 12, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Leaks water in the front of the machine while washing. It is a whirlpool heavy duty super capasity plus. It is about 17 years old


1 Inspect externally visible components - Somewhere adjacent to your machine will be two faucets, one for cold and one for hot water. Flexible hoses with standard garden hose type fittings on each end connect these faucets to the water inlet valves for your machine. Check to see if either the hot or the cold water hose is leaking either along its length or where it attaches to the faucet or to the water inlet valve. In the simplest case, you may simply need to tighten the hose slightly at one end or the other. A pair of pliers can be used to tighten the hose fitting, but be very careful not to over tighten at the water inlet valve end because here the hoses screw onto plastic or nylon threads that can be stripped by over tightening. The hose fittings contain rubber washers or washer filter screen combinations that can be replaced if they have deteriorated. These can be obtained from local home improvement stores or appliance parts suppliers. If the hose itself is leaking then buy replacements for both the hot and cold water hose since they have probably experienced similar deterioration. Another possible source of water on the floor is an overflowing drainpipe. The drain hose from the washer normally has a curved end that hangs loosely on a vertical drainpipe (sometimes on a laundry sink) that connects into your sewer system. If the drainpipe or its connection to the sewer system is partially stopped up you will get an overflow when the washer empties. On a front loading-machine check for leakage around the door or any obvious deterioration in the gasket material. Get a helper and use a heavy piece of cardboard or masonite to protect finished floors if you have to slide the machine out for access. If the leak is not external you will have to look inside the machine. 2 Common washing machine components/operation - Understanding what you are looking at inside the machine requires some background about how washing machines operate. The washing machine has a water inlet valve assembly to turn on and off the hot and cold water that must flow into the machine. There are also flexible hoses to connect to your homes hot and cold water supply plus a rubber drain hose for emptying water from the machine. The machine has a tub for holding the water during washing and rinsing and the tub contains a "basket" (the part with holes in it that you see on looking into the machine) for holding the clothes. It has an agitator to accomplish the washing operation. It has a pump to move water from the tub to the drain and some kind of spin mechanism to remove additional water from the clothes after the tub is emptied. There is also an electric motor to power the agitator, the spin mechanism, and the pump as well as a transmission to couple the motor to the agitator and spin mechanisms. There may be a filter to remove lint during the wash cycle. Finally there is a control panel to select specific cycles, temperatures, agitation speed, amount of water in tub (load size), washing time etc. Inside the machine there are also hoses to connect the water inlet to the tub, to connect tub to pump to drain hose, and to interconnect the tub and pump and filter (if present), etc. The most likely points of water leakage are the internal and external hoses and their attachment points, the water input valve assembly, the pump, and the water filter. A less likely leak would be from the tub itself rusting out on an old machine or from some kind of mechanical failure or chronic imbalance that caused the basket to rub the tub during spin. The link "Online Appliance Repair Manuals" under resources below provides more detail, diagrams, and description for some specific brands as well as good general information. If you have not worked on washing machines before, it would be very helpful to read the first two short chapters in this reference or to read some equivalent tutorial material covering basic repair techniques and principles of operation and containing lots of explanatory figures. 3 Looking inside the machine - Here you will probably need a manual or at least the online resource cited just to get access to the inside. The assembly/attachment techniques are not always obvious just looking at the outside of the machine. Older machines sometimes had access panels on the back that provided a place to look in, but newer machines may require removing the cabinet and this is much easier if you know the recommended approach. Be very conscious of safety while working inside the cabinet. There are electrical shock hazards from exposed connections and mechanical hazards from moving parts plus possible wet wiring from water leaks. Keep machine unplugged and water turned off except as needed for tests. Also turn off water while moving machine for access and have a bucket to put the drain hose in. Inspect the inlet control valve and the tube connecting the valve to the washing machine tub. Check all internal hoses and their connections for leaks. Inspect bottom and sides of tub for any problems. Inspect the body of the water inlet valve assembly, the pump and the filter for signs of leaking through cracks or bad gaskets. Check all of the areas for wetness or signs of mineral deposits where leaking has been occurring. Remove failed parts referring to manuals or online sources as needed. Most hose clamps can be removed with ordinary slip jaw pliers. Some hose clamps may be of the screw type. If a hose is stuck and difficult to get off after the clamp is moved back out of the way, grasp the area where the hose overlaps the pipe with channel lock pliers and try to rotate it slightly back and forth to break the bond. Some sheet metal or machine screws may need to be removed to dismount parts. 4 Obtain new parts - You will need to know the make, model and serial number for your machine. If you have an owner's ,manual it will tell you where to find the "nameplate" which has this information. Lacking a manual try looking on the back of the machine or possibly just inside the door or sometimes down by the base. If you have an owner's manual it may also have a parts diagram and parts numbers. Your options for obtaining parts include getting from your dealer (e.g., Sears parts), finding a local appliance parts supplier (check your yellow pages and call first about availability), or ordering from an online appliance parts supplier. Ordering online is probably the cheapest, but if you are inexperienced it is nice to walk up to a counter with the old part in hand (along with your machine information) and get personal assistance in obtaining the right replacement. 5 Install parts - After installation check carefully to be sure the leak is repaired. Reassemble the machine.

Feb 15, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My machine is leaking out of the bottom?


  • Inspect externally visible components - Somewhere adjacent to your machine will be two faucets, one for cold and one for hot water. Flexible hoses with standard garden hose type fittings on each end connect these faucets to the water inlet valves for your machine. Check to see if either the hot or the cold water hose is leaking either along its length or where it attaches to the faucet or to the water inlet valve. In the simplest case, you may simply need to tighten the hose slightly at one end or the other. A pair of pliers can be used to tighten the hose fitting, but be very careful not to over tighten at the water inlet valve end because here the hoses screw onto plastic or nylon threads that can be stripped by over tightening. The hose fittings contain rubber washers or washer filter screen combinations that can be replaced if they have deteriorated. These can be obtained from local home improvement stores or appliance parts suppliers. If the hose itself is leaking then buy replacements for both the hot and cold water hose since they have probably experienced similar deterioration. Another possible source of water on the floor is an overflowing drainpipe. The drain hose from the washer normally has a curved end that hangs loosely on a vertical drainpipe (sometimes on a laundry sink) that connects into your sewer system. If the drainpipe or its connection to the sewer system is partially stopped up you will get an overflow when the washer empties. On a front loading-machine check for leakage around the door or any obvious deterioration in the gasket material. Get a helper and use a heavy piece of cardboard or masonite to protect finished floors if you have to slide the machine out for access. If the leak is not external you will have to look inside the machine.
  • 2 Common washing machine components/operation - Understanding what you are looking at inside the machine requires some background about how washing machines operate. The washing machine has a water inlet valve assembly to turn on and off the hot and cold water that must flow into the machine. There are also flexible hoses to connect to your homes hot and cold water supply plus a rubber drain hose for emptying water from the machine. The machine has a tub for holding the water during washing and rinsing and the tub contains a "basket" (the part with holes in it that you see on looking into the machine) for holding the clothes. It has an agitator to accomplish the washing operation. It has a pump to move water from the tub to the drain and some kind of spin mechanism to remove additional water from the clothes after the tub is emptied. There is also an electric motor to power the agitator, the spin mechanism, and the pump as well as a transmission to couple the motor to the agitator and spin mechanisms. There may be a filter to remove lint during the wash cycle. Finally there is a control panel to select specific cycles, temperatures, agitation speed, amount of water in tub (load size), washing time etc. Inside the machine there are also hoses to connect the water inlet to the tub, to connect tub to pump to drain hose, and to interconnect the tub and pump and filter (if present), etc. The most likely points of water leakage are the internal and external hoses and their attachment points, the water input valve assembly, the pump, and the water filter. A less likely leak would be from the tub itself rusting out on an old machine or from some kind of mechanical failure or chronic imbalance that caused the basket to rub the tub during spin. The link "Online Appliance Repair Manuals" under resources below provides more detail, diagrams, and description for some specific brands as well as good general information. If you have not worked on washing machines before, it would be very helpful to read the first two short chapters in this reference or to read some equivalent tutorial material covering basic repair techniques and principles of operation and containing lots of explanatory figures.
  • 3 Looking inside the machine - Here you will probably need a manual or at least the online resource cited just to get access to the inside. The assembly/attachment techniques are not always obvious just looking at the outside of the machine. Older machines sometimes had access panels on the back that provided a place to look in, but newer machines may require removing the cabinet and this is much easier if you know the recommended approach. Be very conscious of safety while working inside the cabinet. There are electrical shock hazards from exposed connections and mechanical hazards from moving parts plus possible wet wiring from water leaks. Keep machine unplugged and water turned off except as needed for tests. Also turn off water while moving machine for access and have a bucket to put the drain hose in. Inspect the inlet control valve and the tube connecting the valve to the washing machine tub. Check all internal hoses and their connections for leaks. Inspect bottom and sides of tub for any problems. Inspect the body of the water inlet valve assembly, the pump and the filter for signs of leaking through cracks or bad gaskets. Check all of the areas for wetness or signs of mineral deposits where leaking has been occurring. Remove failed parts referring to manuals or online sources as needed. Most hose clamps can be removed with ordinary slip jaw pliers. Some hose clamps may be of the screw type. If a hose is stuck and difficult to get off after the clamp is moved back out of the way, grasp the area where the hose overlaps the pipe with channel lock pliers and try to rotate it slightly back and forth to break the bond. Some sheet metal or machine screws may need to be removed to dismount parts.
  • 4 Obtain new parts - You will need to know the make, model and serial number for your machine. If you have an owner's ,manual it will tell you where to find the "nameplate" which has this information. Lacking a manual try looking on the back of the machine or possibly just inside the door or sometimes down by the base. If you have an owner's manual it may also have a parts diagram and parts numbers. Your options for obtaining parts include getting from your dealer (e.g., Sears parts), finding a local appliance parts supplier (check your yellow pages and call first about availability), or ordering from an online appliance parts supplier. Ordering online is probably the cheapest, but if you are inexperienced it is nice to walk up to a counter with the old part in hand (along with your machine information) and get personal assistance in obtaining the right replacement.
  • 5 Install parts - After installation check carefully to be sure the leak is repaired. Reassemble the machine.


  • Read more: How to Find a Leak in a Washing Machine ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2285965_leak-washing-machine.html#ixzz1D5Uk4sk2

    Feb 05, 2011 | Frigidaire FTF2140E 3.5 Cu. Ft. Front...

    1 Answer

    I have recently moved into a new flat. When I tried to connect my washing machine hose to the tap/faucet I realised that the faucet was smaller. How can I connect my washing machine pipe if the faucet is...


    tap will be 1/2 or 5/8 bsp you need to know which and get a 3/4bsp to 1/2 or 5/8 reducer. 3/4bsp is standard size now. Or change the taps to standard size. just realized you may not be uk in which case this may not apply . look in your manual for connection size.

    Aug 24, 2010 | Haier HLP21E Top Load Washer

    1 Answer

    Kenmore 22642100 top load washer ... the clutch assembly is broken, so I will replace. but the tub is very hard to turn without the motor attached. Is this normal? or is something else froze up causing the...


    First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22642100

    It's likely that the brake (which stops the tub) is engaged when the clutch / transmission is removed.

    A tab on the brake is engaged by the clutch spring.

    If you are going to pull the transmission in order to get to the clutch (Sears has a clutch rebuild kit instead of having to buy the complete clutch assembly), I'd pull the brake and drive tube assembly also to check the brake and springs.

    Following is an illustrated set of instructions on how to pull the pump, motor, transmission and brake assembly.

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=2b032a4fc7eb55782e68a26559e72e0a

    In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

    Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

    You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

    I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

    Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.


    Jan 10, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

    2 Answers

    I have problem with my washer. When I fill in water while clothes in washer and notice bottom water flow. I believe that there are leaking in somewhere. Can u help me to look through. Thanks


    have problem with your washer leaking This video will show you how to find that leak on any front loading washing machine
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    Oct 24, 2009 | Washing Machines

    2 Answers

    The water just trikles in when it is filling the washer. Our water works fine


    Sounds to me that the screen is plugged in the hose were it connects to the faucet. Remove both the hoses and remove the screens within the hose.

    Aug 12, 2009 | Washing Machines

    2 Answers

    My washer is showing a code


    E10 code indicates there is no water supply.This can be confirmed by :
    1. Shut off the faucet to stop water supply to the washer.
    2. Disconnect and pulling the supply hose off the washer to confirm the E10Code
      • Opening the faucet and watch for running water if you have water
    3. Can be caused by bad pressure switch
    4. Can also be caused by clogged pump
    5. also by too low of a drain hose height.
      Check for clean filters of the inlet water line.
      Check that the drain hose was assembled as per the manual's instructions.

    May 26, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

    1 Answer

    I don't know how to get the cartrige out of my american standard two handle bathroom sink faucet. Help.


    Turn off the water supply valve.
    Open the faucet to bleed pressure.
    Remove the bolt holding the handle on.
    Remove the handle.
    Remove the spool retaining nut.
    Remove the spool.


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    Jan 20, 2009 | Washing Machines

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