Goodman Draft Induction Fan Keeps Cycling On and Off
Here is my situation:
I have a Goodman (gulp) gaspack Model PGB042125-1 that is approximately 8 years old. In the past we have had to repair the the other regular issues (cracked heat exchanger, multiple bad igniters, burned compressor contacts, etc -- Thanks Goodman!), but I've got a new one and money is tight. The draft induction fan keeps cycling on and off -- regardless of whether the thermostat is calling for heat or not. The gas never turn on during the cycling and the igniter never glows, the induction fan just keeps cycling on and off and has been doing so for weeks. When the thermostat calls for heat, the unit works just fine. Is this a problem with the board that I keep reading about? I'm pretty handy with a volt meter but I have no clue where to start to diagnose the problem and I can't afford to either start replacing parts or pay for a house call to a professional to run the diagnostics. I've searched through the threads and cannot find an example of my problem. Please help me.
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Re: Goodman Draft Induction Fan Keeps Cycling On and Off
Can you write down where the low voltage t stat wire go and disconnect the white wire at the unit to eliminate a short between the white wire and the red wire usually the colors are as follows red is 24volt , green is fan , white is heat, yellow is cooling I want to narrow down the red is not shorting to the white briefly let me know if this is possible if not we can try other checks
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Seems like it trying to start and then cuts out , possibly on overload. Try the machine on fan blow only , that will check the indoor unit to see if that is working. Then try cool or heat function while listening to the machine starting. If you hear a loud humming just as the fan starts, and then it cuts out, It could be a compressor issue. Possibly the start capacitor has failed.
The red button that keeps tripping is probably the rollout sensor just above the burner assembly. When this rollout starts tripping, it means your flue gasses are not being drawn out by the induction fan motor. If your furnace is a few years old, the fan blade has probably rusted out and is not moving the flue gas. You will need to get a new induction fan motor. While you are checking the induction fan motor, it is a good idea with everything torn apart to check the condition of your heat exchanger. When the induction fan blade rusts out, it is a good indicator the heat exchanger may need replacing also. So do yourself and favor and check it out for rusted out welds and the like. You will probably need an experienced hvac tech to make the furnace repair.
Hope this helps.
I think you are talking about draft induction pressure switch operation. Make sure the metal orifice located on the draft induction blower is clear. To check, remove the rubber tubing end at the pressure switch and blow into the tubing. It should be easy to blow through it. If it is plugged, remove the tubing from the blower orfice and use a paperclip, inserting it into the orfice to clear the opening. After repairing, and all is hooked up, retry the furnace start up procedure. If the code comes up again, replace the pressure switch.
is the flame igniting and then cutting off? on a gas furnace, the induction fan motor(draft motor) should start first (if the furnace is so equipped), then the flame, then the blower. if you have an induction motor (flue gas exhaust mmotor) this may be your problem (the induction motor isn't starting), if your unit doesn't have one, have you checked to see that you have gas? finally, the capacitor on the blower motor may be causing the motor not to start.
The power ventor most likely needs to be replaced. But be advised. Goodman normally will not sell parts to anyone but a certified technician. I had to show my masters certificate to buy parts from their outlet. This is a part that has a high rate of failure.
most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.
the pressure switch is closed before the draft motor closes it.the board is telling you that this is not right.pull the wire(either) off of the pressure switch to see if furnace tries to light.if it does,you should replace the pressure switch.