Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore HE4t Dryer - no heat

I have a Kenmore HE4t dryer model number 110.85862400 and it runs fine, just no heat. It is about 2 1/2 years old. Im up to replacing the part myself if anyone has an idea of which part I should replace. Thanks

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  • Tami Drog May 25, 2007

    Ok, I took the whole thing apart and took everything to the parts store and had tested the Thermal Fuse, Thermal Cut-off, Heater Element and High Limit Thermostat all were good. I then took in the Thermistor they said it was week so we replaced it. Put everything back together...no change, it still runs with no heat. Any more ideas???

  • Tami Drog May 28, 2007

    Just wanted to let you know I found the culprit. The 220 portion of the wiring was burnt out. Thanks so much for your help.

  • Anonymous Jul 30, 2008

    A brand new Kenmore 400 dryer wont heat and the plug gets hot on the left prong where it plugs into 220 plug

  • buddycatrn Oct 03, 2008

    my HE4T runs but doesn't heat up. The repair guy came out and said we had to call sears because he couldn't fix it.

  • k2gm May 11, 2010

    The above posts were very helpful in narrowing down the problem. In my case, the heating element is bad. Hopefully, a new one will fix the issue. Thanks much.

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  • Master
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The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check: 1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST. 2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer. 3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on. 4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad. 5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat. 6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms). 7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up. I hope this helps you.

Posted on May 25, 2007

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  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell May 25, 2007

    PS Just another thought...if the thermal fuse or thermal cut-out are blowing, it is usually because of overheating. This is caused improper air flow. Check the dryer ducting for clogs and make sure the vent exhaust is not obstructed. If you've never cleaned the ducting, this would be a good time.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell May 26, 2007

    Take the top of the dryer off by removing the three 1/4" screws from the back (if you have not done so already). The top slides back and lifts off. Look for a tech sheet taped to the inside of the dryer. It's usually on the right-hand side. There should be a wiring diagram. Refer to the drawing for the electric dryer (there's two drawings - one for electric, one for gas). I don't have the drawing memorized so I'm limited on where to lead you next. Look at the heating circuits. The motor circuit should be fine since the drum is rotating (right?). There's only a few things in the heating circuit that can cause the dryer not to heat. Since you have checked all the obvious culprits, check to see if there is a heater relay somewhere in the circuit. It may be mounted on the Electronic Control Board. With the top open, the Electronic Control Board is mounted under a panel on the left hand side of the dryer. Sorry you had to go through so much effort with no results. The wiring diagram should help you, though. You may have to do continuity checks in the heater circuit to rule out wiring too. Good luck.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell May 28, 2007

    Glad I could be of some help and that you were able to trace out the wiring to find the cause.

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The first thing you do before you even think of disassembling the dryer is to turn the breaker on your electrical panel off and then on again. The motor assembly runs on 110V so if there is a live leg on the circuit, it will run. You will think that there should be heat when in fact it takes two legs of 110V to run the heater coil. If that doesn't work proceed with the above checks. I made the mistake of buying a thermistor for $30.00 and the parts place I bought it would not take it back. If anyone needs a brand new thermisor for their Kenmore Elite Electric Dryer part# 3976615 email me at bob dash girolamo at sbcglobal dot net $15.00 US gets it and I'll stick it in an envelope first class and mail it to your address. You can Paypal me at the above email addy if interested.

Posted on Oct 27, 2009

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Change the GAS VALVE COILS. Very east to do, cost about $30.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: kenmore dryer model number 110.66912691 not heating.

Check the house electrical panel for tripped dryer-circuit breaker-pair. Push off, then on. If immediately re-trips, the dryer has a dead short circuit in it. If they hold, then retry the dryer. If it now works, ok! If not, recheck the breakers as above. If tripped again, there is a likely short in the dryer's heater assembly. The drum must be removed to access the heater.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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SOURCE: Kenmore HE4t gas dryer will not heat. One load

The Sensor for heating element cut-off is bad. It wrongly detects the unit is overheated so it signals to inhibit the gas valve not to open. Since it is not opened, gas is not burnt through the manifold hence not heat why the machine is tumbling. Good luck.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

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