Question about GE Profile JGSP48 Gas Kitchen Range
If you reset the temperature it will start to heat back up but once it hits the desired temp it starts to cool despite the screen showing the set temperature holding. Whats wrong?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Profile XL44 range
I think it's the ignitor. Ours has been doing a very slow lighting for quite a while. I found if I did a cleaning cycle it seems to work a little better... otherwise a new ignitor ( Ours is gas )... now it is flashing the probe and bake lights alternately and will not turn the oven on at all.... not so impressed at this point.....
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
If it is a ge it would have a glow bar ignitor, either a flat rectangle shaped or a round ignitor. That is want the problem is 95% of the time. It is pretty easy to do. The floor of the stove will come right out and it probably has two screws in the back corners you can see. Remove them and the floor will lift out and you can see the burner and the ignitor.
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
OK, it is likley that the oven ignitor isn't working and needs to be replaced. To verify if this is the problem, when you turn on the oven to BAKE and set the temp at say, 350. Watch through the window, (or you can have the door open). Look at the bottom, back, center and see if you see a bright orange glow appearing under the bottom panel.
If you don't, that is why the oven won't lit the gas. There is an ignitor for both the broiler burner at the top and for the bake burner in the oven compartment.
The reason that the temp display reverts to 100 degrees is because that is the lowest default temp setting for the display and until the oven temp actually starts to increase, it won't change. So the temp display is working correctly for the BAKE function.
Here's a line drawing showing the part you may need. Ignitor Part # WB13T10045. The good news is that your oven uses the same ignitor for both the broiler and bake burner tubes, so you could swap them if you wish to confirm that is the problem before you go and order/buy a new one. These aren't cheap at $91 bucks, but you can shop around the web for a better price if you determine you need one.
Sometimes the ignitor burns out half way through but because it still lits/glows, people think it's OK, but it won't get hot enough to signal the gas valve to open and allow gas to ignite and get the oven cooking.
Hope this helps you out and remember to disconnect the oven from the electric power before performing any repair work. Best regards!
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. Should be 3 - 3.6A. If less than 3A - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Part numbers, the first one being the direct replacement: WB13T10045, 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Those ignitors are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires, if not comfortable splicing wires - order the first one in the list.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
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