Question about Computers & Internet
I know this monitor is less than a year old. Sometimes it turns right on with the computer. Other times it doesn't do anything. I tried to unplug cable going to the computer and only have the power cable plugged in and the monitor still won't turn on. It doesn't actually have a physical button. Only a sensor that is supposed to turn it on. Help!!!
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem...apparently the Syncmasters have some caps that are known to go bad pretty often. They will show visible swelling on the top with the slits. If they are flat they are probably good. The 820uF was too hard to find so I used a 1000uF with the same voltage. I had two caps blown on two different monitors so be sure to check them all. Hope this helps. Check out pics on BadCaps.com
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
SOURCE: Samsung 215TW Monitor Flicker
Its the capacitors on the backlight power supply. Samsung installed crappy ones and they blow up after a year or two. Change out the caps and you're good to go
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
The Problem may be due to the defective inverter unit inside the monitor. Dry to resolder if any dry joint on the inverter PCB or replace the inverter board.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
First of all plug another monitor to the VC on your PC and do the same for the SamSung"I over heat"SyncMaster2 053BW.
Oct 23, 2009 - This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...
HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW
NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
rcpips, You may need to replace one or possibly 5 -8 aluminum can "electrolytic filter capacitors" on the "switch-mode-power-supply/CCFL inverter board. If, as you say "works for 5 or 6 seconds" then that means that fuse is good. Another thing you will need to inspect SMPS board for is "cold" "frosty looking" solder joints where the components (surface mount or through hole) are soldered to the copper circuit traces. May need large magnifying glass or low power inspection microscope to locate them. Resolder any that look bad or loose. Some solder joints have thinner than "hair" thermal fractures that can also cause YOUR TYPE OF SYMPTOM!! PARTS: digikey. mouser. newark. and possibly Radio Shack. If buying filter capacitors, make sure they are rated 105 deg C only!! NOT 85 deg C!!! If caps need to be replaced (swollen, leaky) be sure to tell us the brand name you find installed on your unit! CAPXON, ELITE, JUN-FU are just 3 that you don"t want to find in your unit. BAD news if you do!! If DIY suits you, remember to document with "close-up" digital stills your unit tear-down, so you can reassemble unit without any "extra" parts laying on kitchen table!! Filter capacitors are polarized. You put them in + to +, - to -!!! if you put them in backwards they go BOOOOMMM!!! Hope this helps a little. lmistyrel on aim or 12fixlouie at fixya.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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