Question about Whirlpool WTW6400SW Cabrio Washer
Cant remove screws to remove lid for replacement
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool Estate Lid switch
If you still need to get to the lid switch, just follow these steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number (located along the tub rim under the lid) and there will be a parts index available to you with illustrations and pricing info.
Good Luck to you. I hope this helps you. Post back if you have any further questions/comments.
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
I work for an appliance repair company and I had a recent service call for the same exact situation on this washer. I also know that Rotary Position Sensor is linked to the F-51 error code. I have found that this is not always the case. On this paticular call the F-51 error code was caused by a piece of clothing (sock, wash cloth, etc.) being stuck or jammed between the internal basket and the outer tub. I removed the cloth and the washer ran fine, so give that a check first before you spend the money.
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
we just bypass them,unless your going to stick your hand in there during spin cycle,-unplug washer,remove the 2 head screws 1 on each side of the head,flip the head up,you will see the lid switch jack in the middle of the top of washer, unplug it,cut the 2 outside wires and wire nut them together,plug back in,put the head back,plug in washer and your done,this way it cost you nothing to fix,the other way would be around $40,let me know how you do-mike
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
It sounds like your thermal fuse is out. You can check it for continuity
with an ohm meter, make sure your dryer is unplugged first! Or you can
take the wires off the thermal fuse and use electrical tape to tape
them together to see if it will come on.
CLICK HERE for the TECH SHEET on your washer... and HERE to see the thermal fuse.
Sometimes the plastic start button can break a little tab off the back as well, so check it as well.
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Posted on Sep 12, 2009
"dl"indicates a door lock error. A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be unlocked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error.
Check for the following when dl occurs:
Thank you !!
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
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