Question about KitchenAid 24 in. KUDP02CR Built-in Dishwasher

5 Answers

Too much current

Hot wiring harness seem to be all wires. Two solenoids burnt out, the soap dispenser and the vent in door. One transister lead burnt off near the soap dispenser connection. Have replaced the dispenser lost it first time. Seems to run through all cycles ok. Don't know when to open soap door manually. Bought new June 2006. Thank You! Jack

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  • kinzsammo Feb 06, 2009

    Soap dish uses a solenoid to open the door for the soap, durning the wash cycle. This same solenoid is used during the rinse cycle to add rinse aid. I've replaced the soap dish twice and each time the soleniod burnt out.

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Bi-Metal Switch 

A bi-metal switch is an electrical component made with two pieces of pliable metal located behind the dishwasher detergent cup. When an electrical circuit is sent to the bi-metal switch, the pieces of metal expand, disengaging the dispenser's door. A defective bi-metal switch will not expand enough to disengage the detergent door. Test your bi-metal switch. If it is defective, you will have to replace it.

SOME DISHWASHERS HAVE A DRAIN VALVE ACTIVATED BY A SOLENOID. CHECK FOR VOLTAGE AT THE SOLENOID.
NO VOLTAGE, CHECK THE CONTROL. IF VOLTAGE IS PRESENT BUT THE SOLENOID IS NOT ACTIVATED, REPLACE SOLENOID.


solenoid burnt up on you, Unplug dishwasher take four screws off lower panel looking under to the left on the front side of the pump and motor assembly you should see the drain solenoid see if it moves with a down motion and pops up again if not you need one. also if it looks melted Dishwasher drain solenoid kit Item # 271344 Price $31.50http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=271344
Depends on why the valve toasted. Internal leak onto the copper winding or the timer sticking. I'd look for signs of leaking around the valve

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Other than high current, another cause for heating would be a loose connection. The loose connection offers a relatively low resistance which then causes the heat built up on the junction of connector/terminal. The heat is transferred to the wire/harness. One solution is to clean/scrape and tighten the connectors by slightly crimping them that they offer a more positive contact with the terminals.

This would require checking the connectors over, look for discoloration of the terminals/connectors and even burnt marks or even deformed plastic connector holder. Often heating up starts from the ends of the harness and travel along the wire.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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Hi,
Please check te power supply unit and see what it is rated at - 240 or 220 or 120 ?
If it is possible to confuse things - it seems likely.

Power supply should be checked first.

If wires and solenoids are burnt. This is likely to be the main culprit.
If the control board is damaged, it should be replaced unless you can trace the problem to a damaged large resistor before the burnt resistor.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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Many dishwashers ( but not all ) use a BI-metal strip that heats up once power is applied to it. The BI-metal strip bends and allows the soap door spring to open up the dispenser. This bi-metal strip is not given full 120 volts power, the timer "shunts" the power through either the heating element ( most common ) or the motor and this gives the bi-metal strip lower than full power to work and open. Most often the bi-metal strip has lost it's ability to bend properly and needs to be replaced

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Try to look for the screws at the side of the soap door. You can try to remove it and check if you can remove the soap door.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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