Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a plastic panel inside the frigidaire looking at the underside of the freezer inside the refrigerator compartment which holds the thermostate dial and the light fixture. remove the four 1/4 in hex head screws holding the assembly. pull the panel toward the front. you will expose the drain hose connection you can let it dangle from the plug wires or remove the panel completely, I worked with mine in place. look at the back funnel shape drain. just in front of that see a rectangular styroform collar which should be snug fit to match the underside. clean and dry all. there is a divider between the two funnel compartments, mine was separated between the plastic and the styroform. I used kitchen and bath tub caulking to seal the gap. and a little around the rectangle shape that fits to the underside. plug the wire back in if disconnected. reassemble the panel. that may fix it. good luck.
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
the middle insulation hasbecome water logged, forma faulty defrost tube, so, every time trhe unit defrost, 2 maybe 3 times a day it will spill water inti the vents, andin to the refrig, the only correct way to fix is to have the enitre center drain block replaced, part not that expensive but labor to install may be, ohter then nussincence, not really affecting machines workings
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
Remove the food from the freezer and the icemaker if equiped . Remove the air tower at the rear of the freezer section and remove the rear panel inside the freezer . Using a hair dryer to the drip pan , below the coils ( probably ice ) , starting at the center , defrost until you see the drain hole . Keep defrosting the hole ( hot water helps ) until water starts to flow down . Using a short piece of hose , insert it into the drain hole and blow . This should blow out any debris inside the drain hole . I would use a short piece of solid ALUMINUM wire ( 14-16 guage about 8 " long ) striped of all insulation , and insert it into the hole as far as possible , without any force . Wrap the other end about 1--1 1/2 turns around the black tube ( defrost heater ) above the hole . When the heater comes on , heat will transfer to the aluminum wire and keep the drain from freezing up again . Reasemble back panel , air tower , and , icemaker . Reinstall the food and its FIXYA'd .
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for the suggestion. "
No, it is not normal. The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Your freezer has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the unit. Occasionally this drain can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your freezer,due to line freeze over. This can, also, cause a run-off, as stated in your post. In the freezer, standing water will become ice and may result in defrost problems or inadequate coldness.
You will need to Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into the drain line with a basting syringe. If the solution will not flow through, slide a length of ¼ inch flexible tubing into the drain tube to push the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing the clog. This will correct the issue.
The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in the wall behind a drain funnel.
NOTE_It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is level from front to back.
If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or pliers.
If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An ice-maker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then re-tightening the screws.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
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