Question about GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven
I DON'T HAVE A MANUAL AND EVERYTHING WORK EXCEPT THE OVEN AND BROILER. a WEEK BEFORE IT TOOK FOREVER TO REACH THE PROPER TEMP THEN DECIDED NOT TO LIGHT AT ALL.
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
Testimonial: "This advise seems right on. Thanks for your fast and detailed advise. Steve"
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 24, 2012 | GE JGRS14 Gas Single Oven
May 13, 2011 | Ovens
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
Dec 10, 2010 | GE Ovens
Apr 26, 2010 | GE JKP30WMWW 27" Built-in Single Electric...
Apr 26, 2010 | Ovens
Jan 12, 2010 | Ovens
Sep 18, 2009 | GE Ovens
Dec 28, 2008 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven
Nov 29, 2008 | GE JGRP20 Gas Single Oven
116 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!