Question about Proform XP 542S TREADMILL Drive Motor

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Pro-form xp 542e starts but only runs 1 second

The Led is on solid,how can I tell if the motor is bad or the motor controller is bad ?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: When i push the start

It could be just the sensor that has moved.

Refer to Page 22/23 of the Manual at the link below regarding the required gap.

If this doesn't solve your problem then let me know and I'll look into it further.

Posted on Jul 30, 2011


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Pro-form 650 cross trainer - when started the belt goes fast for 3 seconds and stops.

The Motor controller board is faulty. That's why its runs on the Top speed and and shut sown due to the over current consumption
You have to replace the motor driver or get it repaired.
If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here. Pull up older posts.

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Rheem heat pump not coming on in heat mode. Control board has two LED lights # 1 solid, #2 blinking. What does this mean?

Usually wen the led lights are blinking it means there is a problem. If you look on the door or the cover there should be a code that tells you what the blinking represents.

Example - one blink per second - compressor, two blinks - fan motor, etc. The other thing you can do is look up the model number on line for the installation manual and it should have all the info you need.

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E68 error code

This E68 is a stuck keypad.

The error E68 means the CCU has sensed a stuck button on the console. MANY times this is a false error and means that either the CCU or interface must be replaced, but SOMETIMES, there really is a stuck button. Try to run a diagnostic using the instructions I have provided below, let me know if you need any help with it.
1. Press and hold Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. The buzzer will sound
1 time and " res" will be shown briefly in the display.
2. Immediately after, rotate cycle selector knob 5 turns counter-clockwise to the second position from the bottom.
Press and hold the Options and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The control will enter test mode,
the buzzer will sound 3 times and all LED's will rapidly flash.
After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests:
Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:
0 turns: All LED's will flash.
1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. "H" and the control thermistor reading will toggle
back and forth in the display.
2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and "AF" (Air Fluff) is displayed.
3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LED's are lit and numbers appear in the
display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing
a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers decrease. In controls that
do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening the door (press in on door switch
plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the Damp LED
come on.
4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off.
Key test:
a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LED's should light.
b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LED's should light.
c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LED's should light.
d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
7-11 turns: All LED's will flash
To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power
from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation.
If you cant even enter this mode at all, your interface will have to be replaced. There is no way to determine whether its the interface OR CCU, but in my experience, it's usually the interface that ends up needing replacement. Here is a link to the interface board.

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1 Answer

My proform xp 542e stop working when i pushed thed fan button, is there a reset button.

1) is probably fault sensor speed you mus calibrate 2) IMPROPER connector tight it. 3) faulty sensor.

2) Use the calibration software from your equipment see the owner manual or go under the Hood and see the instruction for fix it and diagnostics.

3) Main motor can be fault test without load with 115 vac. for measure the motor personal tip.

4) Test the main motor controller output for +5 Vdc.

Attached the block diagram that i did for better result and diagnostic too.

12_24_2011_6_58_29_pm.gifsincerely. Merry Christmas.
ernesto cuadra
managua, nicaragua

Dec 22, 2011 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

I am using a gto pro 2000 series automatic gate and the gate stopped opening. All fuses are good, green LED in the control box is solid and the red is solid. All connections look good. BAttery is charged....

The belt that drives the tray in and out is either broken or slipping. The belt is attached to a motor and as the motor spins the belt will rotate a pulley which drives the tray mechanism.

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I have a pro form xp weight loss 620 tredmill and when I turn it on and press start the belt runs for about 1 sec. On the main board in the bottom of the tredmill there is a LED and sometimes it turns off...

Since the motor shroud is off I would like you to manually move the running belt by foot and see if that LED flickers if is does then your speed sensor is working properly. If not then the speed sensor needs to be replaced. The next thing I would be checking is the drive motor, using a fully charge drill battery, lantern battery or even a 9V battery by connecting the two leads coming off the drive motor it should move the motor at approx. 1 mph if it is moving the motor is good. then I suspect the lower board will have to be replaced.

May 17, 2010 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

I have a model T-10 endurance treadmill when it starts to run about 10 seconds it will stop and code E-1

Unplug unit and remove motor shroud ,check upper & lower wire for solid connections , check condition of magnet on front roller to see if missing or still in place if not replace the roller. Next to the front roller, their is a speed sensor ( reed switch ) unplug the leads going to the the lower board use a multi meter to check continuity of the switch by inserting the leads into the connector and manually rotating the front roller back and forth opening and closing the reed switch if not operating properly then replace the switch.
If the above procedure did not resolve problem and still ERROR 1 then check the Motor Control Board LEDs 6 & 7 If LED 6 isn't on, change a new upper console if on then motor control board needs to be replaced if LED 7 is not on ( that a mouth full )
If LED 7 on - current overload circuit meaning too much friction between belt and deck you will need to apply good quality silicon lubricant that may be purchase @ part# TM001
If then if the overload problem, still exists and lubrication did not the help then the belt and deck are worn and need to be replaced. Very seldom do we need to replace the Drive Motor problem is around 8% failure rate. You will get plenty warning if the motor goes out.

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1 Answer

I have a pro form xp 542 s tread mill and think it is the speed sensor that is bad but i dont know where it is located or what it looks like,can u help me?

You have a bad mtr controller- did u leave the item plugged in wall without surge protector-did the power go off at house and then come back on(clocks blinking 12 one day)?? if yes to both you had a surge, if no still your controller/power board( all in one board) is bad

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When I turn my furnace on, the purge blower starts as normal, then after 15 seconds the ignitor starts to glow but when the gas valve should turn on it only turns on for a split second and then you can...

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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