Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Refrigerator Compressor Inop.
I found this post by searching on the capacitor number, JSU21X126AQC. My 2001 Kenmore refrigerator (don't have model# here) compressor didn't run, but I heard it hum for a few seconds and then a click. That's the Klixon overload doing its job. I measured resistance of the compressor leads same as original poster. This lead me to determine that the windings were not open or shorted. The wiring to the compressor also fed the condenser fan, and it was running, so power was at least all the way to the compressor.
What I did find was that the 12uF capacitor was only 4uF. My digital volt meter has a capacitor check range. This compressor circuit is a permanent split capacitor type. Without the proper capacitance, the compressor can't start. I replaced it with a 10uF, 220v AC capacitor I had, and now it runs fine. I wonder how many refrigerators are scrapped because of this inexpensive problem?
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: Maytag MZD2766GEW No Cooling
I replaced all the factory components with a supco 4 in 1. This fridge has a run relay and you must use the the supco part that has a the run cap included or use the Supco part wired to use your original. I did use my original overload too. I should detect compreesor heat much better. Doesn`t hurt a thing to use two overload devices. Some techs do not recommend start kits like Supco but my fridge runs just fine. It could save a unit that you would have to replace. I would not use one on a newer fridge that is still in warranty.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
Hello, Unfortunately the compressor likely is seized now. There are a couple of reasons that the original start device failed, 1) faulty connection. 2) poor quality part. 3) compressor was running non-stop due to other deficiencies in the unit or 4) the compressor was failing to begin with. The compressor may indeed check out ok as far as electrically ( windings ) but the mechanical component ( rotor ) has locked/seized up. You can determine whether it is the windings by checking the ohm value between common to start, common to run and run to start ( c-s, c-r, r-s ) and look for values similar to 6ohms, 3ohms, & 9ohms. Then check the start and run & common windings against the compressor casing to see if windings are shorted. In order to double check the mechanical component you'd need another hard start, ( or a test cord direct to 120vac, but that should only be done by an experienced tech ). nothing else will start it at this point obviously or you wouldn't be using a hard start already. The other unfortunate issue is this, many of these compressor's have a 10yr. parts only warranty but that was voided as soon as the 3in1 hard start was installed. In the end I'm likely not telling you anything you didn't already suspect or know in fact, but it is likely the compressor. I sympathsize, seized compressors **** ! Hope this answers your question and moves you forward. good luck macmarkus :)
Posted on May 08, 2010
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