Question about Refrigerators

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COMPRESSOR AND FAN WILL NOT COME ON,CHECKED DEFROST SENSOR IT'S GOOD,CHECK CAPACITOR 12 UF IT'S GOOD.I'AM NOT GETTING 120 VOLT TO FAN ,BUT CHECK POWER CORD AND IT'S PUTTING 120VOLT,BUT

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  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Nov 11, 2012

    Mike not knowing or posting your model number does not help. If your refrigerator has a defrost control board or motherboard the power to the fan may just come from a relay related to that board and model number...TKS JT

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 9,472 Answers

Check the relay at the compressor.

Posted on Nov 10, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore frige model 59658692890 evap fan will not start

It won't run if unit is stuck in defrost.

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Refrigerator Compressor Inop.

I found this post by searching on the capacitor number, JSU21X126AQC. My 2001 Kenmore refrigerator (don't have model# here) compressor didn't run, but I heard it hum for a few seconds and then a click. That's the Klixon overload doing its job. I measured resistance of the compressor leads same as original poster. This lead me to determine that the windings were not open or shorted. The wiring to the compressor also fed the condenser fan, and it was running, so power was at least all the way to the compressor.
What I did find was that the 12uF capacitor was only 4uF. My digital volt meter has a capacitor check range. This compressor circuit is a permanent split capacitor type. Without the proper capacitance, the compressor can't start. I replaced it with a 10uF, 220v AC capacitor I had, and now it runs fine. I wonder how many refrigerators are scrapped because of this inexpensive problem?

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

nallbunch1
  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag MZD2766GEW No Cooling

I replaced all the factory components with a supco 4 in 1. This fridge has a run relay and you must use the the supco part that has a the run cap included or use the Supco part wired to use your original. I did use my original overload too. I should detect compreesor heat much better. Doesn`t hurt a thing to use two overload devices. Some techs do not recommend start kits like Supco but my fridge runs just fine. It could save a unit that you would have to replace. I would not use one on a newer fridge that is still in warranty.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

beamerguy740
  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: roper stopped working

Your defrost timer is bad. The defrost timer motor probably quit in defrost mode, thus no power to the compresser

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: I have amana bottem freezer,1 month ago i

Hello, Unfortunately the compressor likely is seized now. There are a couple of reasons that the original start device failed, 1) faulty connection. 2) poor quality part. 3) compressor was running non-stop due to other deficiencies in the unit or 4) the compressor was failing to begin with. The compressor may indeed check out ok as far as electrically ( windings ) but the mechanical component ( rotor ) has locked/seized up. You can determine whether it is the windings by checking the ohm value between common to start, common to run and run to start ( c-s, c-r, r-s ) and look for values similar to 6ohms, 3ohms, & 9ohms. Then check the start and run & common windings against the compressor casing to see if windings are shorted. In order to double check the mechanical component you'd need another hard start, ( or a test cord direct to 120vac, but that should only be done by an experienced tech ). nothing else will start it at this point obviously or you wouldn't be using a hard start already. The other unfortunate issue is this, many of these compressor's have a 10yr. parts only warranty but that was voided as soon as the 3in1 hard start was installed. In the end I'm likely not telling you anything you didn't already suspect or know in fact, but it is likely the compressor. I sympathsize, seized compressors **** ! Hope this answers your question and moves you forward. good luck macmarkus :)

Posted on May 08, 2010

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My lighy went out of my vizio tv but i still hear the sound 37 inch vo37om


Failure in the high voltage circuit near the 120 volt plug. Check the voltage on the capacitor (some TVs have two or more capacitors) rated at 100 uf at 450 volts. The high voltage circuit needs at least 400 volts and the capacitor helps to maintain the high voltage. If the voltage fall too low, TV shutdown, inferRed drops, etc. Try a higher capacitor, ie 300 uf at 400 volts to 450 volts.

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Over heating


One fan comes on when the Coolant sensor reaches a certain temperature, and the other fan comes on when the A/C Compressor is turned On.

You can measure the voltage going to the fan for 12 volts using a Voltmeter. If it isn't getting 12 volts when it is supposed to, check your fan relay (it should click with the fan turns on).

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1 Answer

Amana arb8057csr freezer works fine, but refrigirator not cooling fully.


Hi,
Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Good luck in solving

Jun 19, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Wiring diagram worn off outdoor ac unit,capacitor burned up got replacement part fixed all burned up ends keeps shorting out,carrier model 38RE042300,capacitor that burned up35/UF motor run capacitor +-5%...


Hi, if the first 35 uf run cap shorted, you most likely have a shorted to ground compressor. This is what causes them to burn out.A 35uf, x 440 volt run cap is for the compressor only. You should or will have a smaller one for the out door fan.1 lead from the contactor feeds one side of the capacitor, energizes it. The S wire also plugs into that same terminal. Then the R or run wire from the compressor, and C will go to the other side to start it. The 2 left ove have to be commons to feed other componants, you will need to follow them to see, as I can't pull up any diagram for that model. You need to have the compressor ohmed out, or checked to see if it is shorted to ground. To do this, remove the 3 wires to the compressor terminal. Make sure the power is off! If you have a voltage tester that has the audio alert for checking fuses and so on, touch the black lead to a clean spot on the compressor of copper line, and tough each one to each terminal. If you get a beep, it is shored to ground, and you will need to replace your compressor. Do this check and let me know.
Shastalaker7
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Jun 06, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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I have a Goodman split model from around the year 2000. It sounds like the compressor tries to come on for about 2-3 seconds and then stops. The green light on the inside portion stays on stead but after a...


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May 24, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Fridge not cold enough


Good day,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Hope this help to solve the problem of the refrigerator...

May 13, 2011 | Refrigerators

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