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IF YOU HAVE A GOOD BENCH VISE SET THE BIT OR drill in the bench vice so that the tool and chuck is near against the vice with a small space between the clamps of the chuck and the 2 clamps of the benchvice. place a crowbar between the little space between the 3 clamps of the chuck and the clamps of the benchvice , before doing something spray some wd40 inside the clamps of the chuckwhere the drill is in or bit or whatever. and try to pull off the powertool from the bit of drill if its hard to do then also possible use with a plastic hammer against a light benchhammer where the point is on the clamps of the chuck and on every of the 3 clamps Partly, you can beat in turn 3 times on every clamp down the machine from the drill or bit
The large black part of the chuck should turn left and right to extend (close) and retract (open) the three chuck teeth that hold the bit in place. Turn the chuck to open it far enough to get your bit fully in the chuck then turn it closed to hold the bit in. When the teeth make contact turn the chuck a bit further to get it tight enough that the bit won't slip. When you get used to it, sometimes it's easier to hold the chuck lightly and turn it by lightly squeezing the trigger to turn the chuck with the drill motor.
If this is a TE7 then the chuck will just pop off of the front end. You just pull the rear chuck sleeve foward to release the chuck. With the chuck off run the drill to see if the cylinder is bent. If you bent the cylinder it will wobble. If the cylinder is okay just order a new chuck. If the cylinder is bent then your best choice is to send it to Hilti and have it repaired by them. They have a ceiling on the amount the repair would be and you would get a warranty with the repair. It would be cheaper than you trying to buy the cylinder and replacing it yourself. Hilti 1-800-879-8000
First you lock the bit into a vise. Very tight. You then put a pipe wrench on the cap nut. The end piece with the metal ring with the holes in it. It will take a lot of effort to break it loose. It has regular threads. Screw the cap nut offf. oh yeah you can take it out of the vise now. under the cap nut you should have a large o ring. Remove that and the locking sleeve should move foward far enough to uncover the roller bearings holding the bit. You should then be able to remove your bit, the lock sleeve, the spring and the metal bell cap that is bent. Take a large diameter socket and lock it into the vise. but your bent bell around the socket and tap with a hammer until the dents are out. Then reassemble putting axel grease on the roller bearings to hold them in place. Again you will have to put your bit in a vise when it is back together to hold the chuck while you tighten ti down. DO NOT TRY TO TIGHTEN THE CHUCK WITHOUT A BIT IN IT AND LOCKED INTO A VISE. FAILURE TO DO THIS WILL RESULT IN BREAKING THE SHIFT DETENT AND THE HOUSING INTERNALLY.
Sometimes if you happen to have the right size bit, it will stick into the bolt that holds the chuck on if the chuck wasn't tight enought to keep it from slipping further into the chuck. Clamp drill bit in vice and tap chuck with soft hammer to pull it free.
Unless your entire rack is loose, there's nothing you can tighten, but it sounds like you have a wheel problem, more than a steering problem. It's either out of balance or the rim is bent. Try putting your spare tire on that one, and see if the problem persists. Even if your steering is out of whack completely, it won't cause a vibration... just bad steering.
jacobs come out with this all metal keyless chuck(i think thats what you have) and if thats the case, there is no solution for this youll have to replace the hole chuck, being its new, it may be under warrenty