Lens arbitrarily stops working for temporary time frames. aperture display becomes "00". shutter display is frozen. stabilizer becomes erratic with large amplitude motions. sometimes camera battery icon shows empty. shutting off the lens stabilizer and/or the lens autofocus doesn't help. camera is canon A2 (film), this doesn't happen with other lenses. problem sometimes disappears after lens is removed from camera and re-attached, can then re-appear. recently the lens PCB was replaced, but phenomenon re-appeared.
Have you tried this same lens with other cameras? Do you have another camera body you can try? or perhaps a friend with a Canon EOS Camera?
Also try the following please:
Remove the lens. Look at the lens mount contacts, take a Cotton swap with some rubbing Alchol & clean the contacts very well, both on the lens and the camera body.
Is your camera reading the lens aperture range correctly (at least most of the time)?
Also since you replaced the PCB on the lens, isn't it under warranty?
Let me know if this works. Thank you, AJ.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
On a film camera, the internel electronics determine the shutter speed and aperture. The camera computer figures out a higher shutter speed against the aperture speed. You have a lever on your lens that, when mounted on the camera, will keep the aperture open until you fire. That allows viewing in the brightest light. Then that aperture arm is allowed to close to what the exposure setting the camera determines when you click the shutter. You should be able to take off the lens and easily move the aperture arm and have it snap closed. If it takes a few seconds to close.. then the lens has oil on the aperture blades or the grease inside the lens is bad. These days, unless is it a very expensive lens it's replacement time. Canon lenses will fit any Canon (except Fd) film or digital camera.
There is no communications between the camera and lens. When using a set up like this everything becomes manual and you must remember to stop down the aperture to your taking aperture before releasing the shutter. I don't know what camera or format you are going to use this lens with but assuming it is a digital "bridge" (a camera that is between an amateur and a pro) or a professional the sequence would be the same. To view, focus and compose the lens would be set in this case F2, to select the correct light meter reading the lens is set (stopped) down to the taking aperture. The modes I've used for this have been mostly manual but lately I found that "AV" worked equally well and the camera metered to the proper exposure. Most times the camera was mounted on a tripod and the shutter was released with a electronic shutter release. Sequence for taking a photo for me anyway was/is (with the camera mounted on a tripod) focus, compose, stop down to taking aperture, check metering and release the shutter if in AV mode or manual mode to set the shutter speed and release the shutter. You will find that all makes of digital cameras will function differently so what sequence works for one won't work on others. This meaning I have had digital cameras that wouldn't meter through anything other then the lenses meant specifically for them. Problems that I've had. Forgetting to stop down to taking aperture (like Duh), not fine focusing (manual), not trusting the in focus indicator, forgetting that the viewfinder is/was only 94% of the scene. Once a little time has been spent with a lens set up like this the rewards are far beyond the trivial annoyances. Have fun with it
When using a zoom or telephoto lens, it's just like using a telescope - a little bit of movement in your hand makes the image jump around a lot. If you take a picture under these conditions it is often blurry. There are 5 things to improve the image quality:
1. Use the fastest shutter speed possible.
2. Since a fast shutter speed captures less light, you also need a wider aperture (that's the size of adjustable curtain in the lens known as the f-stop, a smaller f-stop number indicates a wider aperture). The wider aperture allows more light in.
3. Use a tripod. This works for telescopes and cameras.
4. Bright available light. On a sunny day, there is lots of light available, so you can use a fast shutter speed and still get enough light.
5a. On film cameras use "fast film". This film is more sensitive, meaning it requires less light so you can use a faster shutter speed.
5b. On some digital cameras there is Image Stabilization. The image is electronically stabilized - this is like using a tripod to hold the image still, while allowing the camera to move around a little bit.
I hope you found this helpful
Quite right too. When the M42 adaptor is fitted there is absolutely no exchange of information between the lens and the body: M42 lenses pre-date all of those later developments. Your camera will also be unable to stop down the lens automatically when taking the picture, most M42 lenses don't even stop down automatically when connected to an M42 body.
You need to do things the old-fashioned way. Your camera needs to be set to meter manually, shutter priority mode may also be used. In manual mode you focus the lens as normal with the aperture ring set to the lowest aperture number (i.e.aperture is wide open). You then make sure that the lens in in manual mode as well and stop down to whatever you want, if the image remains bright enough then you can adjust the precise focus using the hyperfocal principle if you like which takes advantage of the increased depth of field of a stopped down lens. In manual mode, you then tell the camera what aperture you have set (read it from the lens barrel) and set the shutter speed using the camera's light meter to guide you. If using shutter priority mode then the camera will choose the shutter speed for you. Check everything is set as you intend and press the shutter.
It all sounds long winded but is exactly how many of the world's greatest photos were taken and soon becomes second nature. You also learn far more about the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings and will be able to talk about reciprocity like you know about it!
aperture 00, that means the body don't identify the lens, or there is no lens. try to see if the lens contacts are in order. Try another lens, par exemple you can go to a shop and try the most beautiful lens you ever seen for free.
something sounds strange about this. aperture 00 is an invalid aperture value. stands to reason if that is the case the camera would complain about it. via error code. being that its only six mos. old i would give canon a ring.
Try it on bulb, and open the f and check it is working properly the problem might be the computer inside the camera and there's no replacement spare parts, but yoou canfind another ody and swap the computer.
this same thing is happening to me on my D70s. i posted about it at photo.net and everyone is stumped. http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Q6eB i already returned the lens and got a new one... same problem. i don't know what's wrong. does anyone here have any insight?
They will - fully open in Av mode, and with any aperture in manual mode - after you allow the Ds through the custom settings menu to use aperture settings different then "A".
To choose correct exposure with such a lens in manual mode you can use the AE-button - it stops down the aperture, reads the EV and sets the shutter speed according to the chosen aperture.