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Bosch WFF2001 washing machine motor bearings failing

Very noisy when spinning. Had motor out - bearing at pulley end seems smooth running but is loose on shaft - bearing at brushes end seems very slightly rough (both when turned by hand). Think the noise may be cause by the loose bearing rattling up and down the shaft. I did put an ''O'' ring between the loose bearing and the end housing which quieten things for a while but it is bad again.Was thinking of replacing both bearings but to do this the pulley needs to be removed and I cannot see how it is secured.
Would appreciate advice on pulley and bearing removal and replacement.
I think the drum bearing is OK - cannot detect any play or roughness when turned by hand with the belt removed. Do not think it worth replacing the motor complete as they appear to be about £200 - may as well by a new machine

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Rear Tub Bearing Replacement Whirlpool Frigidaire Kenmore Front Loar Washers



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most FRONT LOADERS. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven’t done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o’clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o’clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o’clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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Servis 1200 very noisy in spin modes. Inner drum seems to be very loose and wobbly. Noise sounds like a roller with flat spots running on the drum, or a very bad (failed) bearing. Machine is 12 years old,...


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Sep 09, 2013 | Washing Machines

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Noisy on spin cycle


It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you can't describe noises accurately enough. People often describe the same noises quite differently.

Generally though, if a washing machine is rumbling, and noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure is a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust.

Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as they coins get tossed around inside. Usually, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins as the coins drop to the bottom of the tub when the washing machine isn't spinning.

A light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand is usually a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum.

A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.

A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine.

It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk.

Jul 28, 2012 | Roper Washing Machines

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Noisy drum bearing also play on drum


It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you can't describe noises accurately enough. People often describe the same noises quite differently.

Generally though, if a washing machine is rumbling, and noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure is a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust.

Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as they coins get tossed around inside. Usually, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins as the coins drop to the bottom of the tub when the washing machine isn't spinning.

A light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand is usually a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum.

A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.

A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine.

It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk.

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you ask connor mcgowan who works in pauwels to try looking it up on the internet for ya!!

Jan 20, 2010 | Bosch Washing Machines

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The drum is very noisy when it turns and spins? There is no rattle but it sounds very raspy.


Sounds like the main drum bearings have failed.
Remove rear panel, and remove the drive belt.
From the front open the door ,and spin the drum by hand,
If it feels rough, or is rumbling at all, then the main drum bearings have failed.
If no obvious noise, then it could be the motor bearings that are noisy.
Hope this helps.

Dec 09, 2009 | Bosch Washing Machines

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Make sure belt is reasonably tight, and it is in the center of the drum pulley, if it still comes off, then I would suspect that the drum bearings are worn, or the drum is running out of alighnment, or the motor bearings are worn, if it is noisy when you spin the drum by hand, then the bearings have definately failed.
Please rate my solution.
Thanks.

Sep 22, 2009 | Hotpoint WM56 Front Load Washer

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Hi, I have a Maytag Washing Machine. Model Number: LAT7793ABV It seems to wash fine, but when it gets to the "Spin" part of the wash, sometimes it doesn't spin, and if it does spin, the clothes...


Several items can cause no spin or slow spin. I'm assuming the motor runs during spin and the water all drains out. A worn or damaged belt can cause your problem. Always replace the drive belt and pump belt at the same time.

Check for smooth and non binding motion of the motor in it's carriage.

A failing bearing (either tub bearing or spin bearing) will restrict tub motion in spin.

A garment in between the inner and outer tub will also restrict tub spin performance.

Apr 28, 2009 | Washing Machines

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Drum makes loud whinning noise when spinning at high rpms.


Remove drive belt.and turn drum by hand, if it feels rough or sounds noisy, then the main drum bearings have failed., also check that the main drum pulley is not loose. If you think it is the bearings, then it is quite an expensive repair.
Plz rate this solution.Thanks.

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Maytag Performa PAV2300AWW screaching noise, belt problem, pulley broke


My Maytag Performa was making the loud squealing noise. I changed out the water pump/bearing, took care of the problem.
Putting a new belt on just help burn up the bearing (they needed replacing) and probably ruined the new belt. Probably seized the water pump bearing and the belt jumped and broke the motor pully. A washing machine motor is very strong, when that h20 pump bearing seized (or possibly some bearings jamed up) the motor kept on turning that belt and the plastic pully gave in. You'll need to replace that also. If the h20 pumb bearing is turning freely, likely the bearings jammed up but or now loose. That bearing should be tight, no slack or play in it. You can probably wobble the pully on it all around while turning it. The slightest slack is too much.

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This usually indicates that there is an issue with the motor or rear bearing. This can be isolated by first removing the power from the machine the removing the inner rear panel from the machine. You should be able to see the belt and motor. You can spin the belt off easily then reapply power and place the machine in a spin. Keep clear of the motor as is spins around 18000 rpm. Let the motor stop and remove power from the machine. You can spin the inner tub by spinning the large pulley by hand, if there is a excessive noise or grinding feel then the bearing will need replacing. The belt can be spun back on and the machine run with the rear cover off but again be very mindful as this cover is there for a reason.

In most of the cases the moise is from the motor itself. There are rebuild kits available but they are mostly a waste of money. The motor if worn should be replaced. They should carry a multi-year warranty, check your manual.

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