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I own a coleman cm 01213-15 and when it reaches the cut-out pressure or I turn it off the tube bleeder starts relieving the air and when it goes down to cut-in pressure the motor stuggles to kick back

If I let all the air out of the tank then turn it back on it will fill up again then back to the same problem. It seems to be a little pin-like reliever that gets pushed up when it cuts off or I turn it off.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: coleman powermate inflationmate pump

The ring is gone on compressor. You can buy replacement pistons and rings from colemen. Comes with instructions.Good luck

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

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hdpanama
  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman 6hp / 60gal air compressor

Make sure your pressure switch is set correctly. Check your pressure gauge and make sure it is functioning correctly. Also,seems sometimes if there is any time when there isn't the adequate amount of power demand supplied the motor heats up more causing the thermal protection switches to act a little finicky which in turn shuts it down.Check how many amps the motor is rated compared to the breaker controlling the circuit. Is it a dedicated circuit only for the compressor or are there other things also drawing power from the circuit ?

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Air leakage through pressure switch needle

1)Let your unit pump up.
2)Turn it off.
3)Find the supply line from the pump to the tank.
4)Remove the supply line from the pump head.
5a)If you hear air coming from the tank you have a bad check valve.
5b)If you do not hear air coming from the tank, you have a leaky
pressure switch.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

mrhappyface
  • 205 Answers

SOURCE: air compressor fills, but slows down as the pressure builds

sounds like you need a new check valve which should be somewhere between the compressor outlet piping,tubing,etc and the tank which prevents the air in tank to back feed to the compressor which would cause hard starting and could damage the motor easy way to check is when you shut off the compressor with some air in the tank if the check valve is bad it would continue to bleed air out out the unloader valve .the unloader valve on your unit is most likely part of the pressure switch when the unit shuts of it should only bleed down the pressure in the pump so it would make it easy to start when needed hope i didn't confuse you

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

miket756
  • 2702 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 33 gallon craftsman compressor model

i think you will find there is nothing wrong with the compressor part of this its all down to a faulty motor
if it cant start up the motor the motor will hum at first then the circuit braker pops out? yes???
check your getting full mains power first as if its trying to run on a very long extenshion lead its not getting the full power to start up, and you will need a much heaver lead,,,if its in a plug on the wall, change the capasitor on the motor,,,this is the part that hold a lot of volts to kick start the motor over when it first trys to start,,if this capasitor has droped in holding its charge there wont be enough volts in it to kick start the motor over,,so the motor starts to hum first trying to start but it dont stand a chance of spinning up
so it keeps pulling more and more amps till the braker pops out,,,watch this capasitor it can realy bite you if you tuch the two ends that are live????
the motor has two windings in it,,a start up winding and a running winding,, if its been humming for some time now it could have damaged the start up winding

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

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Air compressor won't automatically cut off with selected pressure is reached. Keeps going until emergency value is released


You probably have a faulty pressure regulator. Try turning back the regulator valve to lower the cut-off pressure and see if that stops the compressor. If it doesn't, it's probably the regulator. Hope this helps.

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My compressor comes on for a few second, makes a slight humming sound, then goes silent; any suggestions?


Please realize I'm not a professional compressor repairman.

Your description "comes on for a few second, makes a slight humming sound, then goes silent" leaves me guessing. When you say "comes on" does that mean it "makes the pumping sound of a compressor" or it "Clicks"? Allow my musings.

On a plugged in and turned on compressor the compressor's pressure switch turns on the pump motor when the pressure falls below it's set low pressure threshold (usually ~ 90 psi). The pumps pushes air into the pressure tank until the pressure reaches its high pressure threshold (usually ~ 120 psi). If the compressor is not plugged in or turned on you can hear a click when the pressure switch turns on.

Aside: Leaks, of any sort, make the pumping more frequent or longer. Bad leaks can make it pump continuous because the high pressure threshold is never reached. The leaks can be in the switch, at line connections or in the pump (valves or piston rings) itself.

I once had a low-volume ultra-quiet compressor that made little more noise than a hum when compressing. If yours is not an ultra-quiet (clicks on, hums, and quits) than I'd have to guess that the pump might be binding instead of pumping. If it is binding then the motor would over-heats and shuts off.

Some compressors are oil cooled. If an oil cooled compressor was extremely low on oil would it bind? I suspect so.

If you suspect binding I'd find a parts list for your model to work from and disassemble the pump to investigate. (see link below)

That's my best guess on limited information. Good luck.

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1 Answer

How to bleed brakes


to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

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Check your Safety Valve. It is on the back of the tank sometimes on one of the pressure switch ports or on the air manifold. It has a ring on it to pull to relieve pressure from the tank. The spring in these can get overheated so they don't hold air unless the tank gets over 165 psi. When the motor is running hold the center pin in to see if you have the same results. If the valve holds air until you let it go, replace it.

Jan 30, 2012 | Makita MAC5200 Electric Powered Air...

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My compressor will start if the pressure is zero but not with any pressure built up also the relief valve starts gonig off like a pop gun when the pressure reaches 90 .


Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. You need to replace the pressure switch and you will see the cut in psi and the cut out psi rating. Make sure you bleed all the air out of the tank first. You can order one here www.mastertoolrepair.com . Thanks for choosing FixYa....John

Nov 18, 2010 | Coleman Air Tools & Compressors

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The tube for my brakes going from the caliper to the inside of the car burst. i went to replace them and it did not help my breaks are still not working. how do you properly bleed the brakes on a 2003 gmc...


Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating.There are two ways you can do them 1 gravity feed;this means that you undo the bleeder screw on the caliper or the wheel cylinder and let the brake fluid flow until all air is removed from the system or 2 suction bleed; this involves going to your auto supply store and buying a small hand held pump that creates a suction which in turn,once connected over the bleeder screw,allows you to pull brake fluid and the air out of the system.If you have a friend to help you have them depress the brake pedal until it reaches the floor while you loosen the bleeder screw and discharge the air/fluid.Tighten the screw before the brake pedal is released,release the pedal and repeat.Keep checking the master cylinder and do not let the fluid run low.Don't pump the pedal repeatedly,brake fluid is hydroscopic,which means it can absorb air directly into itself.Slowly and firmly does it until you have purged all the air.You will know when it is all gone because hard pedal will come back.Good Luck

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Tub overfills, plastic tube had been cut. I splice tube with slightly bigger tube. Does the plastic tube have to be a certain length?


As the tub fills with water, the water level switch detects the pressure of the air trapped in the tube. When the pressure reaches a certain point, it turns off the water and starts the wash cycle. As long as the tube that connects to the water level switch does not leak any air, it should be fine.

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1 Answer

How do i bleed my brakes on a 2001 chevy malibu


you will need a friend to help you for this
Buy some new brake fluid, about 500ml should be enough
you can buy some clear plastic tube with about a 3mm hole through it, 300 to 400mm long or 1ft to 1ft 4inches, put one end of the tube into a small jar or something to catch the fluid when it comes out of the bleeder valve
find the bleeder on the disc caliper and also on the backing plate of the rear wheels unless it has rear disc brakes as well, slip the other end of the plastic tube over the bleeder screw
top up the brake fluid in the resevoir
get you friend or whoever to pump the brake pedal
while you put the spanner on the bleeder screw
tell your friend to push down on the pedal
loosen the bleeder screw about half a turn until the brake fluid starts to come through the plastic tubing
your friend has to keep the pressure on the brake pedal as it will go to the floor when you open the bleeder
once it has been pushed to the floor tell your friend to hold it down while you close the bleeder screw
once you have closed the bleeder screw he or she can pump the pedal up again until it goes hard
repeat this process until there is a good flow of fluid coming through with no air
check the brake fluid resevoir several times during this process to make sure that is not empty because if it is empty you will have to start the process all over again
repeat this process for all 4 wheels
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1 Answer

Rear brake cylinder and bleeding


Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.

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Coleman Powermate Model Number BV6548049, pressure switch leak.


Usually, a leak at the pressure switch unloader valve is caused by the checkvalve in the tank. The unloader valve at the pressure switch bleeds out the air from discharge tube after compressor reaches set pressure. This only takes a few seconds. If air continues to leak then air is leaking back into the discharge tube past the tank checkvalve. Follow the air discharge line from the compressor to the brass valve at the tank. The brass valve is the checkvalve that holds the pressure in the tank. There are usually two connections at this valve. One is the unloader tube to the pressure switch. Simple test for leaking checkvalve, with pressure in tank unplug or switch off the compressor and remove the small unloader line at the checkvalve(brass valve) and look/listen for leak. If leaking, remove the checkvalve and examine seat/check for debris keeping the valve slightly open. If it cannot be cleaned, order generic replacement from www.grainger.com. It will cost less than the factory checkvalve. Just pay attention to the thread sizes for easy fit. Good Luck on your repair and email if you have questions.

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