Problem is not related to the flapper leaking. Sometimes it shuts off,
sometimes it continues to run at full flow. It seems to be a problem
with the valve mechanism. I cannot find any adjustments, does the valve need to be replaced or is there something else to check?
I have had this problem in the past as well. What you need to do is try and find a piston complete for flush valve. Part #9208.83.00. Five years ago they cost $22.50 each. If you can locate the part, I would suggest getting a few, they are hard to find and it seems they only last about 5 years.
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check the overflow pipe in the cistern tank as some fill valves do not stop completely but allow input of water after the noise has stopped. This allows the water level to rise up and the water to flow out into the toilet bowl. Reduce the water level height by adjusting the cut off level and when the water rises past the new level the increase pressure on the valve will shut it off.
the fill valve is not letting water in you either have a float that raises up when water is full so when you flush the float drops down letting water in then when water raises it shuts off i would replace the float fill valve and corky flapper.... here is what you do .... first shut water off where it goes up to the tank....... flush commode to empty as much water from tank....... reach up under tank there is a plastic coupling that connects the water supply line to the bottom of the toilet tank...put a small pan under the shut off valve that goes to the toilet some water is going to drain from the tank when you take the coupling loose..... turn the coupling counter clockwise ( use a channel lock adjustable wrench to loosten then had turn) once this is loose you can pull the riser tube away from the tank...... now there is a plastic nut that screws the shaft to the bottom of the tank loosten with channel lock then remove with hand by turning counter clock wise ( you will get a bunch of water flowing down to the pan) remove the entire fill valve , replace with a fluidmaster fill valve ( about 8 bucks from big box store when you take the new fill valve out of the box there is a neopreme seal you must put on the new threaded shaft ( it has an inner ring you may have to punch out) once you put this on you can insert the entire shaft down through the hole in tank then secure with thin nut provided tighten but do not overtighten then put coupling back on,,,,,put the over flow tube on the tit of the fill valve and stick down into over flow ok thats done when you go to big box store purchas a 5 buck corky flapper (red caus it can handle chlorine water better) remove the old one at bottom of tank( just two clips to remove and chain attached to flush lever...install new one be shure chain does not have a lot of slack so it does not fall under flapper seal when you flush......OK YOU ARE DONE TURN WATER ON WATCH TANK FILL LOOK FOR LEAKS TAKE A TOWEL AND DRY ALL AREAS THEN TAKE YOUR HAND AND FEEL FOR LEAKS UNDER TANK AND DOWN TO SHUT OFF VALVE .....CONGRATS YOU DID IT!
there are only 2 possibilities; 1 the tank seal is leaking into the bowl and the input valve runs to replace the water lost, or 2, the water inlet valve does not shut off totally and the water continues to flow into the bowl via the overflow tube in the tank.
If the water is running into the overflow tube, adjust / replace the input valve, if the water is not going into the overflow valve, clean / replace the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank.
Please let me know how you make out.
There are only three places tank could leak without running on floor; 1 Flapper valve, even though you push on it, theres a possibility it might not be saeling right especially if it has a rubber ring that slides down over overflow tube. Tjis will sometimes contort the shape of the flapper. If it has such a ring and also has the ears to hook on to the hooks on overflow drain assembly, take the flapper out and cut the ring off . 2 if the overflow tube is not sealed and/or carcked below the water line, it will leak. 3 If the main drain assembly, where it goes through tank, is not sealed, it could possibly be getting past and still not leaking past seal between tank and bowl. Some fill valves will run a couple of seconds intermittantly and have to be adjusted but will not run all the time.
2 things it could be. Bad flapper seating or back siphon.
1) visually check the flapper. Is it worn, cracked, or not fully seating because the chain might be too long and preventing a good seating?
2) IF the flapper is good without anything blocking it open there, then you have back siphon. Make sure the small hose that goes from the fill valve into the over flow tube has an high arch. If the arch is too low, after the water is cut off the gravity will back siphon water out of the tank.
if it worked fine and now it has stopped....then there is no adjustment that will fix it. If the fill valve is not shutting off you either need to replace the seal in the valve or get a new fill valve. If the water is leaking past the flapper you will need a new flapper.
The flapper is leaking and needs to be replaced. Different toilets have different style flappers, but they all forma seal from the tank to the bowl at the flush valve. When the flapper is lifted, the water rushes into the toilet bowl.
When they develop leaks, the tank slowly drains, (often unoticable) and eventually the fill valve senses the tank is not completely full and "tops off" the tank.
Buy the best quality flapper available, as the cheap low quality ones often leak right out of the package.