Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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My maytag epic front laoder door will not close shut

When I try and shut the door on the washer it will not latch shut. I have tried it before iIturn the machine on and also tried by powering the machine on, still won't latch shut

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  • Maytag Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of your unit?

Posted on Nov 08, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune front loader door latch won't release

rewpa, 98% chance the door latch has stuck in the locked position. Yes, follow Maytags suggestion to access the "rip cord" for the door latch... (this is the mechanical override for it) to get the door open. After it's open, run another load of wash and see if it happens again. If it does, it is the door latch assy. that's the problem. BTW, the door lock light is activated by a switch in the door latch assy. There's a "motor" in the assy... it's made of WAX! Yes, a "wax motor". Before the computer goes into spin, it sends 120V to this motor. The electricity heats the wax and it expands. As it expands, it pushes a plunger forward. This plunger trips both the door lock AND the switch. This sends the signal to the door light AND the computer saying "I'm locked! Go ahead and Spin!" When the cycle is complete, the computer drops the voltage to the wax motor. The wax cools off and contracts. This retracts the plunger... opening the door and shutting off the light. So... if this light stays on, the plunger is still extended and can be overridden using the rip cord. If this happens again, let me know and I'll step you through disassembly and replacement of the wax motor.

Posted on Aug 19, 2007

sivaranjini
  • 241 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Epic giving F11 error code!

ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/.../msg1012004912002.html

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet washer ghw9250mw1 door won't close ...

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkkrqtwwwgtsgwdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krqsddwkbxktttdstrw/1/1303472/5961857/image48287img-or.jpg

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag Epic Z Front Load

The error code is not 5 D it is "S" as in Sierra D. The letters stand for Slow Drain.
I had this code and it was fixed in 10 minutes or less.
Simply remove the bottom panel from the front of the washer. You do this by removing the three screws at the very bottom of the front panel. There is a screw on the bottom left, bottom right, and bottom middle.
Once the screws are removed the front panel should drop down slightly, and then you can remove the front panel.
On my peticular model the drain pump had a very large circular tube with what looks like a twist off handle in the middle.
On mine, you rotate the handle counter-clockwise. It's very stiff at first. This is because of the thick rubber seal that you are rotating against.
After about one complete spin it should get very easy to spin and you unscrew it completely off, and pull straight out.
On mine, the back of the tube you pull out contains a tray that hold junk coming out of the wash.
The tray has holes for water to pass through to get to the pump.
When I took mine out, there was one quarter, and one nickel in the tray. That was all it took to clog the dain holes so the drain water moved too slow.
The on-board computer measures the water flow and can tell if it is moving too slow.
Keep in mind, sometimes the money in the tray must have vibrated off to the side just enough that the drain flow was fine.
My error code would be there one day, and not reappear for about two days. Then it would come back every day for about 3 or 4 days in a row.
It was very irratic to pin down when the code would appear, and when the wash would be fine.
I cleaned out the money and some very minor lint and re-assembled.
It's been 3 months and the code has not come back.5314c3a.jpg

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: ge front loading washer door won't unlock

I had the same problem. I didn't want to spend the money or go to the trouble of replacing the whole latch assembly with the GE latch repair kit.
I found that the plastic latch piece screwed to the door had broken and one of the two latch "fingers" was stuck in one of the latch openings on the washer. I fixed the problem by removing the broken part from the washer and drilling and countersinking very small holes (1/16" I think) in the plastic latch piece on either side of the "latch finger". I then put the broken off piece back in place and drillled pilot holes for #4 sheet metal screws in the door where the latch is located. The door liner is plastic and I think I used a 1/32 inch drill bit. I reattached the broken latch piece with two 1/2 inch stainles steel #4 flat head phillips screws from Home Depot. The screws hold the broken latch piece in place as orinilally positioned.
The repair is working fine and the door now latches like it did before the latch part broke


Or: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?image=0&part_id=2045520&pn_=WH10X10002 Same part cost $200 direct from GE
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/8379-ge-washer-front-loader-door-wont-stay-latched.html#ixzz1LmNUKfTN
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

Posted on May 08, 2011

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1 Answer

I have a Maytag Epic Z washer & when I try 2 start it it's making a ticking sound ? Can u tell me what that might be & I can't open my washer it's a front load ?


if It will open up after u un plug it , then my best guess would be a defective proof switch on the door ;latch , unfortunately its all part of door latch and will need to be replaced as an assembly

Sep 26, 2016 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Electric dryer not get heat


Inspect the front door lock if "F22" is displayed. Press the "Pause/Cancel" button two times. Close the washer door firmly to latch the door. Remove clothing preventing the door from closing and latching. Press the "Power" button, followed by the "Start" button.

May 12, 2012 | Maytag Epic 7.0 Cu. Ft. SuperSize Capacity...

1 Answer

When trying to start machine i get a dl then beeps then flashes f. when i try to open the door after its off it wont open. thanks carol


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error “dlf” or "F dl"means a door latch failure. This means that you’ll need to replace the door latch assembly however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so that it resets itself. In the meantime when it’s unplugged just inspect the door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved else post a comment for further assistance.



Thanks
Rylee

Aug 27, 2010 | Maytag EPIC MFW9700S Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Door latch is stuck


The latch mechanisim may just be jammed. You can try accessing and pulling on the manual release to see if this will reset the latch and enable you to close the door. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r622155-kenmore_elite_whirlpool_duet_door_jammed

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: The Maytag Epic is manufactured by Whirlpool, so these instructions will apply.

Sep 16, 2009 | Maytag EPIC MFW9700S Front Load Washer

1 Answer

FDL error code


"Fdl" is an error code for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite HE front loader washers. I'm not sure if this error codes also applies to the new Maytag models. I believe Whirlpool has taken over the manufacturing of some Maytag appliances, but I'm not sure. If you've only used the washer a few times, and have not slammed the door, overloaded the washer and have been following the your owner/operators manual recommendations, then you need to get in touch with the retailer and/or manufacturer and request a service call. Your washer is still covered under a limited manufacturer's warranty that covers failed components for the first year. In many cases, attempted repairs or disassembly by the consumer can void the warranty. To answer your question: Sometimes components fail for unexplained reasons. It could have been a bad part that came from assembly defects and/or shipping damage. The only way you could have created this problem is by slamming the door or overloading it to the point where it stresses the door when closing it. I hope this answers some of your concerns.

Jun 12, 2008 | Maytag EPIC MFW9700S Front Load Washer

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