Question about Maytag Washing Machines
When I try and shut the door on the washer it will not latch shut. I have tried it before iIturn the machine on and also tried by powering the machine on, still won't latch shut
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
rewpa, 98% chance the door latch has stuck in the locked position. Yes, follow Maytags suggestion to access the "rip cord" for the door latch... (this is the mechanical override for it) to get the door open. After it's open, run another load of wash and see if it happens again. If it does, it is the door latch assy. that's the problem. BTW, the door lock light is activated by a switch in the door latch assy. There's a "motor" in the assy... it's made of WAX! Yes, a "wax motor". Before the computer goes into spin, it sends 120V to this motor. The electricity heats the wax and it expands. As it expands, it pushes a plunger forward. This plunger trips both the door lock AND the switch. This sends the signal to the door light AND the computer saying "I'm locked! Go ahead and Spin!" When the cycle is complete, the computer drops the voltage to the wax motor. The wax cools off and contracts. This retracts the plunger... opening the door and shutting off the light. So... if this light stays on, the plunger is still extended and can be overridden using the rip cord. If this happens again, let me know and I'll step you through disassembly and replacement of the wax motor.
Posted on Aug 19, 2007
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
SOURCE: Maytag Epic Z Front Load
The error code is not 5 D it is "S" as in Sierra D. The letters stand for Slow Drain.
I had this code and it was fixed in 10 minutes or less.
Simply remove the bottom panel from the front of the washer. You do this by removing the three screws at the very bottom of the front panel. There is a screw on the bottom left, bottom right, and bottom middle.
Once the screws are removed the front panel should drop down slightly, and then you can remove the front panel.
On my peticular model the drain pump had a very large circular tube with what looks like a twist off handle in the middle.
On mine, you rotate the handle counter-clockwise. It's very stiff at first. This is because of the thick rubber seal that you are rotating against.
After about one complete spin it should get very easy to spin and you unscrew it completely off, and pull straight out.
On mine, the back of the tube you pull out contains a tray that hold junk coming out of the wash.
The tray has holes for water to pass through to get to the pump.
When I took mine out, there was one quarter, and one nickel in the tray. That was all it took to clog the dain holes so the drain water moved too slow.
The on-board computer measures the water flow and can tell if it is moving too slow.
Keep in mind, sometimes the money in the tray must have vibrated off to the side just enough that the drain flow was fine.
My error code would be there one day, and not reappear for about two days. Then it would come back every day for about 3 or 4 days in a row.
It was very irratic to pin down when the code would appear, and when the wash would be fine.
I cleaned out the money and some very minor lint and re-assembled.
It's been 3 months and the code has not come back.
Posted on Oct 14, 2010
I had the same problem. I didn't want to spend the money or go to the trouble of replacing the whole latch assembly with the GE latch repair kit.
I found that the plastic latch piece screwed to the door had broken and one of the two latch "fingers" was stuck in one of the latch openings on the washer. I fixed the problem by removing the broken part from the washer and drilling and countersinking very small holes (1/16" I think) in the plastic latch piece on either side of the "latch finger". I then put the broken off piece back in place and drillled pilot holes for #4 sheet metal screws in the door where the latch is located. The door liner is plastic and I think I used a 1/32 inch drill bit. I reattached the broken latch piece with two 1/2 inch stainles steel #4 flat head phillips screws from Home Depot. The screws hold the broken latch piece in place as orinilally positioned.
The repair is working fine and the door now latches like it did before the latch part broke
Or: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?image=0&part_id=2045520&pn_=WH10X10002 Same part cost $200 direct from GE
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/8379-ge-washer-front-loader-door-wont-stay-latched.html#ixzz1LmNUKfTN
Posted on May 08, 2011
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