The washer works untill it hits rinse cycle then stops what could be my problem

SOURCE: washer

The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken lid switch. The lid switch is located under the washer top on the right hand side. It is activated through a slot by a small plastic piece on the lid called a "lid strike". Make sure the lid strike is still installed and not broken. Make sure the lid switch itself is not loose, as well. There are two mounting screws along the washer tub opening that hold it in place. If the screws become loose the switch will not make contact with the lid strike when the lid is closed. If you need to replace the switch or lid strike, the parts are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Washer Top and Lid" heading on the next page. The lid switch is listed as item number 22 (part #3355806) and the lid strike is listed as item number 16 (part #358684). Both parts combined will cost you about $30. If you have further questions and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

SOURCE: won,t drain on rinse cycle

Ok mc we need a timer at this point. You see the timer doing several steps different than before.

SOURCE: Washer agitates off balance and makes a loud

If it makes this noise in the agitate mode and not during the spin cycle, I would suspect that the transmission is going.

SOURCE: Whirlpool top load LSQ9549L stops working at rinse

sounds like your lid switch is bad or possible timer

SOURCE: Washer works fine until about the rinse cycle

Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.


If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform yourself. I hope this information is helpful.

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