Question about Pentax *ist DS Digital Camera

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Exposure Everything I shoot is 3 stops overexposed. I've been through all the menus looking for something to address this and haven't found it yet. Going to manual exposure is the only way I've been able to take pictures it so far. Thank god for the old F-16 and 125 in direct sun rule.

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  • Norman Head
    Norman Head May 26, 2007

    You're right, I sent an email off to Pentax and they basicly said..bring it in.

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NO NO NO, there are the custom settings on this camera that will allow you to set your +/- exposure, go through the manule and make sure all the settings are zeroed out, start fresh, set up a user setting for your style of shooting and ENJOY SHOOTING! These cameras are great for the price and quality of photos they shoot.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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I think this is one for the Tech Support on the Pentax web site - Mean while you could try aiming a bit higher in the composition then half pressing the release to hold the setting thus forcing a stop down.

Posted on May 23, 2007

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1 Answer

Shoot pictures of the moon best setting for that


Hi. I would recommend first you use a tripod or some stable support, second the best settings would be Aperture priority and use something in the region of f56-f8 or Manual and set f5.6-f8 and use the exposure indicator to adjust the shutter speed, use the spot meter function on the camera if you have it and vary the exposure by shooting at the recommended exposure and also by shooting overexposed and underexposed. Trial and error is really the only way to go.Set the ISO to 100 or 200 to get the best resolution as you will probably have to zoom it up to 200% on your computer screen to have a good image.

Apr 15, 2014 | Canon PowerShot SD1200 IS / Digital IXUS...

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Adjusting exposure in snow scenes


You generally need to overexpose a stop or two. Without knowing the model of your Canon, I can't give you specific instructions. If your camera has an exposure compensation feature, you can use it. If not, you'll have to set the film speed lower by a stop or two.

Feb 06, 2014 | Canon Cameras

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Incorrect exposure on NIkon D700


It sounds like you've got exposure bracketing turned on.
Refer to the "Bracketing" subsection of the "Exposure" section of the manual (page 130 in my copy). If you need a manual, you may download a copy here.

Apr 06, 2012 | Nikon D700 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Overexposure


Hi Andrew - look for a "exposure compensation" control on your camera. It may be buried in a menu; or an easily operated dedicated button on the camera body itself. You didn't include the model camera you have - so I couldn't look it up. Try googling: "exposure compensation model" where model is the model number of your camera.

Good luck!

Nov 28, 2011 | Canon Eos Cameras

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I am shooting with a Nioon D200 and I have to shoot at 100 iso and 1.8 in the shade in the daytime.If I go over 200 all I have it dark pics no matter my f-stop.Is this a camera malfunction.( my friend...


If you're shooting: ISO 100, f1.4 @ 1/1000 second, it is the same as:
ISO 200, f1.4 @ 1/2000 second, or
ISO 400, f1.4 @ 1/4000 second, etc.. Because each time you double the ISO value, you need 1/2 the light for a proper exposure. The ISO is the camera sensor (or film) "sensitivity to light". The higher the ISO, the more sensitive it is. That's why in the examples above, the shutter is opened 1/2 as long (or it is twice as fast - whichever you like to look at it). But it doesn't stop there..

That same ISO 100, f1.4 @ 1/1000 second picture is also the same as:
ISO 100, f2.0 @ 1/2000 second, or
ISO 100, f2.8 @ 1/1000 second, or
ISO 100, f4.0 @ 1/500 second, etc.. This is because each FULL f-stop (1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, 11, 16, 22 and 32) each allow TWICE as much light than the previous (higher f-stop number). f1.4 allows 2x more light than 2.0, which allows 2x more than 2.8 which allows 2x more than 4.0, and so on. So, if you get twice the light from one aperture than the previous full f-stop, and the ISO is the same, then the length of time the shutter is open must be reduced by 1/2. Hence, 1/500 is half as long as 1/1000, which is half as long as /12000, etc.

It can be represented like the exposure triangle below:
steve_con_96.jpg
All this shows is that all three variables control the exposure. If your main objective is to change the Depth of Field (DoF), adjust Aperture and one or more of the others to get a properly exposed picture. Likewise, if you want to suggest or stop motion, you'd adjust shutter speed first - faster to stop the motion or slower to suggest motion by creating blur. ISO introduces grain to the image. The lower the the ISO value, the finer the grain is (may not even be perceptible). The smoothest color gradients come from the lowest ISO values - but they need to most light. A tripod may be needed unless shooting in direct sunlight or other brightly lit subject. ISO is a lifesaver for poorly lit subjects, night time photography, or other indoor shooting without a tripod or speedlight. The ability to shoot good looking pictures at ISO 3200 means that you need only 1/32 of the light needed when shooting at ISO 100. That means that under the right circumstances, you could hand hold the camera at ISO 3200 when the same picture taken at ISO 100 would take 32x longer. Of course, grain comes into the mix here. It may be too grainy for your likes. Experiment to how high you can set your ISO with acceptable results.

Below is a chart of the full shutter speeds, stops and ISO values. Many cameras break these down further into 1/3 steps for even more minute control. Basically, if you change the value of either shutter speed, f-stop or ISO values 1, 2, 3, 6, 9 - or however many steps - you need to adjust one or both of the others an equivalent amount to compensate to get a properly exposed picture.

steve_con_97.jpg

Lastly, make sure you haven't set exposure compensation to a negative value. Press and hold the the "+/-" button (has a green dot) on the top panel next to the shutter release button. Spin the rear thumb dial so that it is niether plus or minus. Minus makes the picture dark (underexposed) and Plus makes it brighter (overexposed).

I hope this was helpful and good luck! Please rate my reply - thanks!

Oct 12, 2011 | Nikon D200 Body Only Digital Camera

1 Answer

Nikkor 50 1.8 overexposes


You probably have oils on the aperture blades and they do not close to the F stop you set as quickly as required, thus causing the over exposure. Easy to pinpoint: sent the aperture to full open (F1.8) and use appropriate shutter speeds as determined by the camera (in manual mode), if the picture does not over expose, then the problem is with the oiled contaminated aperture blades. Have it cleaned.

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1 Answer

Bronica AE II E Finder Owners Manual


Since I never use a TTL flash with my Bronica's, I'll give you my suggestion for a great solution. Using your TTL Metz flash, (make sure you've connected the TTL cord for Bronica ETRsi) take 8 shots at different apertures on A (Automatic), then take 8 shots at different apertures on M (Manual). I realize this will waste one 120 roll of film, but one negative will stand out as your perfect exposure. Yes, whenever you reduce the ISO in half, your basically overexposing the film by one f/stop. Just remember that this overexposes everything your shooting from foreground to background. With flash, this may cause your highlights to wash out, but any good lab could print for the highlights and make the background go darker. I used to shoot Vericolor at ISO 125 instead of it's rated ISO of 160. 
Fotobean

Jan 21, 2009 | Bronica ETR-Si Medium Format Camera

1 Answer

Background is overexposed


So, the problem doesn't seem to be the flash if the actual subject in the foreground is exposed properly. My guess is that the background is being lit by another light source. Typically, your camera uses a flash for dark areas or what it gauges as a dark area. This doesn't adjust the background for additional light sources. For example, if you're standing outside and there's a tree covering someone that you're taking a picture of your flash will adjust to "properly" light that individual. However, because the flash was used for the main subject, the background is actually now overexposed. The overexposed background will show up as a brightly lit area because the camera had to adjust for the foreground. This will actually reverse itself when it's dark out - meaning if the background and foreground are dark, the flash will expose the foreground, but the background will be black. Hopefully, that helps you understand lighting and exposure. Now, to fix this problem when shooting, you would need to consider several options - 1. SLR camera with aperture and f-stop settings as well as compensation controls. This will allow you to control every element of the exposure, but you still need to be aware of the lighting behind the "subject" to properly expose your shots. 2. backlighting compensation - common settings on both SLR and point and shoot cameras that makes auto lighting conversions for backlighting and other common lighting issues. Test whatever options are on your camera to see what works best for your specific problem. 3. Photoshop retouching - you may take one shot with your subject exposed properly and a second shot with the background then merge the images together. 4. using a tripod to shoot without using the flash - this may give you the closest exposure to exactly what you see when looking at your subject.

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1 Answer

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This may be a ccd problem.
See this link.
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&keycode=2112&fcategoryid=221&modelid=8776

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1 Answer

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This is normal for the 750z.. a friend of mine has the same problem. If you try to print straight from the camera, everything is too bright. My friend has to manually lower the brighness and raise the contrast on every picture.

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