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Replaced Thermostat and now Blower Motor will not run

Greetings, I replaced an original rheem 41-20804-15 thermostat for our rheem heat pump. With a Honeywell RTHL3550D, the cooling worked fine. When I tried the heater, the blower ran for 2 minutes then shut off. I put the original thermostat back and now the blower still does not come on. The whole unit (blower and heat pump) are outside. I checked the fuses and that the unit is getting power. The squirrel cage for the blower turns freely and if i push in on the relay the heat pump fan kicks on. Any suggestions? thx, Rocky

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  • Heating & Co... Master
  • 1,108 Answers

Sounds like a set up issue on the tstat. You say this is a packaged unit, inside the machine you should find where the tstat wires hook up. Typically red is power yellow is compressor orange is reversing valve white is emergency heat green is blower. Put red and green together, test blower. Then red green and yellow, make sure blower works again. If blower runs both ways it's either the tstat wire or tstat itself. Make sure you are landing wires on dedicated heat pump terminals, make sure in settings you are set up for heat pump with back up electric heat and TSTAT CONTROLS THE FAN. Good Luck. Also if there is a switch on the tstat for gas or electric on the back you want electric.

Posted on May 12, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem RHQA Heater:Blower works but no heat.

Is there a setting on the thermostat for Auto or Fan? If so, make sure it is in the Auto setting. You will have a contactor that turns on the elements and a relay for the fan. Follow the wiring diagram to see which relay energizes the fan then unplug it to see if the fan stops.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

shastalaker7
  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: Honeywell thermostat TH6110D1021. Blower comes on

Hi, You are right, fan is on a time delay in the heating cycle, and after burners fire that is when this delay comes into play. You have a preset factory temperature that determines the cycle on time for the fan, and the off time after the burners shut down also. This will not be in the thermostat, but in the fan/limit control the is mounted on the face of the furnace, with a probe inserted into the fire box.Depending on how old or new this unit is, will depend on the type control you have.It may be just a high limit switch, or the 1st I mentioned.If so, It rotates in the burner as the temperature rises, to turn the fan on and off.Disconnect power, remove cover, and 2 screws.Slowly remove the control and gently clean the probe. Turn the dial if this one has it and you will be able to hear it click. This click is contacts closing to start fan operation.Reinsert and try again. If problem continues, you will have to replace it.They do tend to stick closed/on, in the heat cycle from time to time and a cleaning sometimes will solve this problem. Not knowing how old this furnace is and type, make it difficult to give you a correct diagnosis, so check this fan control as I have explained, and if your system is of a different type, please let me no so I can correct this problem. Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

  • 2458 Answers

SOURCE: Furnace blower fan problem

Hi check out the fan control switch could be dirty itsounds like this is nit cutting to let fan run also check setting fan off fan on , temp rise and fall

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

  • 587 Answers

SOURCE: Outside heating unit runs all the time

Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

  • 587 Answers

SOURCE: Heat PumP: Rheem Two Stage Heat, One Stage Cool Thermostat Replac

R = R with jumper to RC hot side of transformer
B = Reversing valve
Y = Compressor relay
G =Blower
C = common on transformer (X on old t'stat)
W2 = Auxillary heat
E = Emergency heat

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

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Just replaced water pump and thermostat in 2003 audio Quattro 1.8 no heat


Airbound more than likely..if not then check flap motors on heater box.

Dec 12, 2013 | 2003 Audi A4 Cabriolet

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Thermostat wiring terminals and colors


R - The R terminal is the power for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer usually located in the blower section for split systems but you may find the transformer in the condensing unit. For this reason, it is a good idea to kill the power at the condensing unit and the blower section before changing or working on the wiring at the thermostat. If you have a package unit then the transformer is in the package unit.
Red for the R terminal.

RC - The RC terminal is designated for the power for cooling. Some HVAC systems use two transformers. A transformer for cooling and a transformer for heating. In this case the power from the transformer in the blower section would go to the thermostat terminal. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.
Red for RC terminal.

RH - The RH terminal is designated for the power for heating. See RC above for an explanation. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.

Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay. Typically a thermostat wire pull is made to the air handler on split systems and then this wire is spliced for the separate wire pull which is made to the condenser. Some manufacturers put a terminal board strip near the control board in the air handler so a splice is not needed.
Yellow for Y Terminal.

Y2 - This is the thermostat terminal for cooling second stage if your system is so equipped. Many systems only have a single compressor but if you have two compressors which should only operate off of one thermostat then you need the Y2 thermostat terminal for second stage cooling.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is light blue but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use. Most installers use the color coding as noted but be aware that some do not use the thermostat color coding.

W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source whether it be a gas or oil furnace, electric furnace, or boiler,
White for W Terminal.

W2 - This is the thermostat terminal used for second stage heat. There are gas furnaces with low fire and high fire and some depend on control from a two-stage heating thermostat with a W2 terminal. Heat Pumps use staging for auxiliary heat and need a W2 terminal.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is brown but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use.

G - This is the thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan. On a split system the blower fan is in the blower section while with a package unit the blower fan is in the outdoor package unit.

Green for G Terminal.

C - This is the thermostat terminal which originates from the transformer and is necessary to complete the 24 volts power circuit in the thermostat but only if the thermostat consumes electricity for power. Many digital thermostats require 24 volts for power so the common wire is necessary.
C stands for common and there is no universal color used for this terminal although black is the most common color I've seen.

O or B - These thermostat terminals are for heat pumps and the B thermostat terminal is used on for Rheem or Ruud and any manufacturer that energizes the reversing valve in heating mode for the heat pump. Most other manufacturers of heat pumps will utilize the reversing valve for cooling and the O thermostat terminal will be utilized for this purpose. This wire goes to outside heat pump condenser where the reversing valve is located.

Orange for O and Dark Blue for B depending on the installer of the heat pump and the manufacturer. If you have a Trane, Carrier, Goodman, Lennox, Ducane, Heil, Fedders, Amana, Janitrol, or any other manufacturer other than Rheem or Ruud you will be utilizing the orange wire for reversing valve. Rheem and Ruud will usually utilize the blue wire for reversing valve.

E - This thermostat terminal is for heat pumps and stands for Emergency Heating. If for whatever reason the heat pump condenser fails and it is necessary to run the heat there is an option on heat pump thermostats for emergency heating. Basically this simply utilizes the back-up heat source many heat pumps have to heat the home without sending a signal to the condenser to run for heat.

E - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the E terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

X or Aux - This thermostat terminal is for back-up on a heat pump and allows for auxiliary heating from the back-up heat source usually located in the air handler.

X or Aux - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the Aux terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

S1 & S2 or Outdoor 1 and Outdoor 2 - Some thermostats have this terminal and it used for an outdoor temperature sensor. The wire uses for this should be special shielded wire and completely separate form the other thermostat wires.







on Jun 06, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hi, I have a Rheem RHSA HM4221JA air handler with


Sounds like a relay inside the air handler is stuck 'closed'...

Oct 17, 2013 | Rheem Paloma PTG-74PVN / RTG-74PVN...

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Amana heat pump emergency heat comes on but blower will not start. The call for heat comes in and the heating element(s) glow red for a few seconds and then there is a "click" and the heating...


Check the blower motor capicator. It should be mounted close to the motor with 2 wires to it (brown,brown/white).
Turn the blower on the thermostat and spin the squirrel cage by hand and see if it runs after by itself. If it does then definitely the capicator is bad .If it still doesn't run then check to see if there is voltage going to motor.
If thermostat is calling for fan and there is voltage present at the motor terminal then the motor is bad

Jun 01, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heat pump fan will not stop running


could be a heat sequencer. if the stat was bad it would run constantly in both modes.

Nov 12, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heat PumP: Rheem Two Stage Heat, One Stage Cool Thermostat Replac


R = R with jumper to RC hot side of transformer
B = Reversing valve
Y = Compressor relay
G =Blower
C = common on transformer (X on old t'stat)
W2 = Auxillary heat
E = Emergency heat

Mar 04, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Outside heating unit runs all the time


Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.

Feb 19, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Rheem RHQA Heater:Blower works but no heat.


Is there a setting on the thermostat for Auto or Fan? If so, make sure it is in the Auto setting. You will have a contactor that turns on the elements and a relay for the fan. Follow the wiring diagram to see which relay energizes the fan then unplug it to see if the fan stops.

Nov 02, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

The fan in the airhandler wont shut off.


The fan is controlled by a blower timer board located inside the air handler, or on older units it has a relay called (of all things) a blower relay. If these items were at fault I doubt removing the thermostat would cause the blower to go off. if bad causing this problem the blower would continue to run even with thermostat removed.

But it is also controlled by the thermostat.

You mentioned that if you remove the thermostat it cuts off. There are 2 switches on most thermostats.
1 has Cool, Off, Heat, and Emergency Heat (on a heat pump stat)
2 The other switch has On and auto (it is for the fan motor only)

I believe because it stops when you remove the thermostat that the switch on the fan is set to on possibly. It should be on auto-matic. This way the fan motor only come on with cooling or heating. If in the on it stays on all the time. If this is the case just switch to AUTO.

Or the thermostat may be wired wrong. The G terminal is where the fan motor gets instructions from the thermostat. Make sure its on G at the stat and the correct wire at the blower coil is being used for the corresponding wire going from the stat to the blower for G. Don't confues G for green it could be any color. The terminals are not for color but it makes more sence to make them color - letter identified. On the other end soemtimes the wires are not colored the same so look carefully.

Also a whisker of a thermostat wire could be touching inside the thermostat and causeing the motor to run 100%. Look carefully at this and see if it has too long of thermostat wires stickinhg on out under the screws to where they may tough other things.

If neither things stop or show the problem and it deffinately stops when thermostat is removed the thermostat is most likely bad.

If this helps you 1 way to make the repairs your\self or helps you realize you need a technician please rate mne as high as you can.

May 14, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Rheem heat pump. blower will not turn off


The fans are set to delay for 60-90 seconds to remove all heat from the heat exchanger/heater elements.

If the fan runs any longer than 3-4 minutes after the Emergency Heat shuts off, you may have a bad sequencing relay in the air handler.

Jan 27, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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