The main (bottom) door on our Tecnik 8085 oven is slack. When the door is closed there is about ¼" gap at the top between it and the seal (which I think is in good order). Can I adjust the hinges to address this problem? Is there another solution
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sounds to me like bottom hinges are set to close to oven/ need spacers so oven door closes flat top and bottom at moment it seems that bottom is to tight before oven door is closed ,try fitting spacers behind hinge fixings at bottom, good luck
The turnbucke system behind the lower panel is relatively straightforward but one buckle is LH thread the other is RH thread. Slacken both locknuts and adjust the buckles until the LH door lags by the thickness of the RH door when they are just coming together (a rough approximation). Don't have too much tension on the chains and lube the chains, gears etc with a copper based grease. It has been known for the little grub screws in the bottom cogs to come loose. You'll need an allen key to tighten them up.
After all adjustments check the chain 'slack' by quickly opening/closing the doors when at about 1/2 open. There shouldn't be so much that the LH door doesn't react reasonably quickly to the change of direction, but not so tight as they are like bow strings.
When you have most of your stuff off, like early morning, switch the circuit breaker in your main fuse box on and off. This will reset the oven, and everything else in your house, so be careful. Also check the door is sealing correctly, push it in when closed to see if there's slack in it. Thanks Adam please leave me some feedback
I had a problem similar. The bottom oven stopped working and the left hand set of controls and clock died. I had three figure quotes for repair. I took the main control unit out from behind the switches, its a pain to do. I took pictures of where the wires went to save confusion later. I removed the main switch unit from the control unit by gently pushing back the inbuilt plastic clips. dont loose the small white connector piece on the end of the switch shaft. I gently pulled the switch knobs from the front then the knob extensions through the same holes. once the unit was out I turned it upside down I could see where two solder tracks on the circuit board had burnt out. I gently cleaned them up and bridged the gap with two short tinned pieces of single core wire I had stripped. I used a soldering gun as it gets really hot really fast and wouldnt damage the components underneath.
the only fiddly bit when putting it back together was locating the bottom edge of the control unit in the little gulley, I had to bend the edge of the gulley down to make it easier. Once it was all back together it worked. Half an hour and I saved £300! Now I have to fix the hinges on the bottom oven door as it doesnt shut properly at the top. Any ideas anyone?
power to the main oven has to go through the oven clock if time is not set main oven will not work also if clock set on auto time rather than manual oven will not work conversley if clock is faulty it will not work top oven is unaffected as oven clock auto timer cannot be used on top oven.try resetting power of and on again reset time on clock if clock not faulty oven will now work.
These hinges are now obsolete and you cannot get them anywhere. The poblem with this type of hinge is not with weak springs or anything like that, it is with the pivot pin in the door hinge. Follow these instructions and it will not cost you anything for the repair.
It is best to remove the oven from the housing. Remove both sides of the oven panels, you have to remove the top first, then the sides (remove about 20 screws all together). Support the bottom oven door first by tying a bit of string between the bottom and top oven door hand rails. This will stop the door falling down when you remove the springs. unhook the springs and the door will just slide out. (Use a loop of string attached to the back end of the spring to pull it from its holes.)
Dismantle the door by removing the screws. You will probably find that the the hinge pivot pins have come away from the U shaped hinge bracket. The secret is to make sure that these are fixed firm back into the bracket. What I did was to nip the U hinge bracket in a vice, (or use pliers) so that the pin will now protude slightly each side of the bracket. This allows more surface bearing area so the pin will not pull itself out of the hinge. To further make sure, I glued the ends of the pin with epoxy resin.
My door now feels like a new one even though it is 15 years old.