Question about Electrolux (ULG80BC) Commercial Refrigerator

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Potential Relay integrity

I have 10,000 ohms across coil. Is that good?

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10,000 ohms across the coil is too high. Resistance across the coil of a relay should range from about 50 ohms to few hundred ohms. hope this help your problem

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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I have a Haier mini fridge that is not working. I have taken the P6R8MC relay off but don't hear any rattle. Does that mean the compressor is probably bad?


That is what is sounds like but let's check. An overload relay will fail due to wear, a short or a bad compressor will knock it out. There is a rare occasion you may purchased a bad overload relay, but that is rare. The rattling of the overload relay is a good indicator it is bad, however it does not have to rattle to be bad - inspect for burn marks as well.
The clicking sound is the overload relay trying to start the compressor. There will be a pause and then click trying to start the compressor again.
Remove the overload relay component and expose the three pins on the compressor. Using a multi- meter, measure the Ohms across the three pins. You will get one high Ohm reading and two lower Ohm readings. If the two lower readings add up to the higher reading the compressor is good. Make sure the green ground wire is securely grounded. It could nock out the overload. Check for loose connections. Replacing a compressor is a major repair. The cost will exceed the purchase price. Rule of thumb; "If the cost of the repair is 1/3 or more of the purchase price of the unit, Buy new".
As a retired Sears service technician, we considered these units
as throw-a-ways due to the high cost of repair. If you had a service contract we would replace the unit rather than repair it

Oct 18, 2014 | Haier Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a ice machine m/n HZB-15/BF It will not make ice The compressor isn't coming on.It cycles to fill the water pan and then it shuts off.


Do u have ur manual I'm a tech working on this style? Does the lil fan come on ? It starts by turning the small synchronous motor and closes the top small relay on the opposite side .that is where I found the problem in this one the pin on the motor shaft was rusted away so it was not closing the relay and would go no further if the compressor is the problem it is either the relay on the board so u have to replace the board or the overload potential relay on the side of compressor most likely that p relay or the comp its skip board cross fingers remove relay with no power to machine push on test compressor in ohms resistance if it doesn't read ol meaning open line between any two combination of the three terminals it's good electrically with power see if u have 125 volts to the two leads that go to the potential relay

Oct 05, 2013 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Maytag mbf1958xe runs constantly, freezer is same temperature as fridge.


I need to know if the compressor is too hot to keep your hand on the top. You may have a start relay and run capacitor problem but you will need to plug power back in for awhile. Need to see that both condenser and evaporator fans are running. Do you also have a way to test the compressor? Here is a=> W10136414 Relay and Overload Kit
12_10_2012_6_54_30_pm.jpg

You will need a good ohm meter to provide this test=> Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze

HVAC Ohming Compressor Windings



Dec 10, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Have a amana side by side and am trying to find out the ohms rating on the breaker and thermal starter?and how to test them with a ohm meter, the breaker fits on the starter.


Hello,
On the overload (breaker) it will be ZERO ohms if good
the relay(starter) in the 2 holes in it it will be about 10 or under if good,if it is brown and rectulanger if you shake it and it rattles it is bad
If you have a older refrig and the relay has spiraled wire coil on it, the relay must be turned upside down to check

Gene

Aug 09, 2011 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

For the 4th time, our fridge is not cooling. We pull off the back panel in the freezer and thoroughly thaw the freezer but didn't help 2 weeks ago when we did that for the 3rd time.


The most likely cause is a bad defrost heater. (the part at the very bottom of the cooling coils with electric wires going to it. You should ohm check the heater. If there is high or infinite resistance, replace the heater. If there is low resistance across the heater, it is good, so replace the thermister instead. (about an inch and a half long white pencil shapped item with two white wires protruding from it located at the very top of the cooling coils)

Sep 07, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Its making a ticking noise coming from the back of the fridge.


HI. There should be an access panel on the backside of your unit. gain access to the main control board, and observe the board, during actions. If the clicking is originating from the board, itself, simply replace the board. Now, if the clicking is originating from the compressor relay/overload, replace the compressor relay/overload start switch.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each modle). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

Nov 23, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

HotPoint fridge clicks and the fan doesn't turn


14 vac indicates a bad motherboard.Clicking could possibly be a bad start relay on the compressor.
Relays are inexpensive. I would replace the relay and hope for the best. Next step would be the motherboard that GE has had trouble with from day one

Jul 21, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

The freezer coils keep freezing up.


First check the defrost coil for continuity, it should be approx 22 ohms, if it is open then you have a problem with the defrost thermostat or the coil. If all is good at the defrost coil then check the 8hrmer 30 min timer located on my refigerator at front bottom left. You can see the revolving part of the timer through a hole, mark it with a pencil and see if it moves, if not replace.

Apr 22, 2009 | Frigidaire FRS26H5AS Side by Side...

1 Answer

Evaporator coils iceing over; warminhg on frig side of model 106....


As I said; the fan and compressor run fine but I cannot find the defrost timer. Is it integrated into the control board.
Thanks

Jul 27, 2008 | Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side...

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