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Well it definitely sounds like you have a fuel supply issue with the starting fluid check. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM with input from the immobilizer system. Power for both the coil and switch within the fuel pump relay is supplied thru the Main relay. I would first remove the fuel pump relay, turn key to on position and use a test light to see if you have power/voltage to 2 of the 4 pins of the fuel pump relay plug in connector. If you do then the main relay and all related fuses are ok. You could then bypass the relay altogether by using a paper clip or other jumper wire to short between pin 30 and 87 or 87a on the relay connector. Pin number is located typically on the relay near the electrical plugs but since you have a new relay is probably not worth the test. The last thing is to see if the relay is being energized by the PCM by grounding the magnetic coil circuit. This is most probable. If your security light is flashing on cluster display then PCM is not grounding the relay as part of the security system. Now would be the time to ask it you are using a new key or different key to start the vehicle. The key has a chip inside that needs to be programmed for the engine or immobilizer computer to recognize as a valid and authorized key to start the vehicle. It immobilizer and pcm do not recognize the key as being authorized to be used then it will not power up the fuel pump relay and kill the fuel supply system.
The fuel pump relay has four pins. Two pins relate to low power switch circuit from the ECU and the other pins relate to the high current switched circuit which has a permanent power in and switched power out (to fuel pump). Check that the ground on the lower switch circuit pins is good and then check that when the ignition key is in the 'on' position that the low power switch pin has 12.6ish volts supplied to it. If there is no low power switching supply then the relay cannot function. If there is low power supply but no voltage switch on the output then the issue sounds like the relay itself. Pull the relay out and check that it clicks when 12v is dropped across the low circuit pins. Check the resistance across the high current output circuit pins when the low pins are given 12 volts. As 12 volts is applied across the low voltage pins the resistance across the high current output pins should drop to near zero as the internal contacts are closed. As the low side voltage is removed the high side pin resistance should once again register open circuit (infinite resistance). If the relay clicks but fails to output then either replace the relay or open it up and get a nail file and draw it between the contact pins to remove any corrosion.
OK TO START WITH THE INJECTORS HAVE CONSTANT POWE 12V WITH KEY ON , THE PCM SWITHES THE GROUND SIDE TO FIRE INJECTORS, IF NO POWER THE YOU SHOLD BE LOOKING AT YOUR FUESS AND RELAYS IF ALL GOOD ING SWITCH
Check the swithed mode power supply section. Some sets uses Ics for control the power regulation, while others uses transistors as oscillators and choppers. If the power to the oscillator section of the SMPS is absent, the supply system won't wake up. So many reasons are there. You just check the resistor, usually connected from main DC rectified supply, to energise the oscillator section of the SMPS. In most sets it may be two resistors in serial, usually 270k 1W*2. If any one of this get opened, the power supply will not start up. Check it first and preceed. If the set uses Ic as regulator controller, check the positive supply voltage at the respective pin of the Ic.
On most fire alarm panels there are normally open and normally closed relays that will change state in the event of a fire. The negative power line can be ran through these relays to allow the maglock to be powered down in the event of a fire. The relay on the fire panel may need to be programmed to do this or it may come programmed by default which is usually the case. Hope this helps.
if sb +5 is ok then check one by one these component :- check main swithing transistor for open check diode, capesetor and 3.3 ome resitor it may be open after then check + 12 to +18 volt for pwm ic and ,
Make 100% sure that your lampdoor is closed properly because there is a little swith on the lamp door that supplies the power to the mashine ( only when pushed in ) You'll see on the lamp door there is a pin that stands out - that pin pushed in the switch when the lampdoor is closed thus supplying power to rest of the components.
Relays are the first big clue, triggered by the 5 & 12v supply you should be able to trace back using a dmm and see if you have both of those voltages present... The lead coming from the smps to the y-sus board is a good start. On a Vizio I believe the voltages are listed per pin right on the board...
If you had any kind of relay sound then you could suspect the y-sustain or z-sustain board or something else. With the relays being silent I'd strongly suspect the power supply.