Question about GE Washing Machines
That sounds like a broken spider that's what holds the drum i think that model is a sealed drum so you cant get to put a new one on if you want to take the lid off and if you can see bolts screws or clips holding the plastic drum together if it has any of them the it can be stripped down to take the drum out but you will find if its just a spider then its going to cost around 50 to 60 pound if its a sealed drum where the spider is pop rivet to the drum then you will need to by a drum complete with spider big job i'm not joking OK if you need more help get back to me OK
Posted on Nov 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here is a compilation of my advice on repairing these units
This is a cronic problem of front loader machines. The two bearings that hold the wash drum are dried out and then they over heat. The heat builds up and weakens the seal that keeps water in and grease out starts to leak and the problem just becomes worse with every load. A service repair man will charge you the cost of a new machine to fix the unit. You can replace the bearings and seal with parts from a bearing supply store and if you do, only use bearings from Japan or Germany. Your machine came with ones from China and that is why these machines are failing after so many years.
The bearings on the back of the outer shell, the ones that spin the drum, are finished. There is also a seal on the inside of the shell that keeps water from leaking and it is leaking also. As a result the brown grease from the bearings is seeping past the seal and contaminating your wash. You need to replace the bearings and seal to fix the problem. You can go to your local appliance store and order the rear half of the outer shell for about $230.00 and have the same problem in 4 years. Or you can buy the bearings and seal at a bearing supply store for about $100.00.
The part numbers needed are:
Seal #408010 DAE (vulcanised double lip seal)
Rear bearing 6308 (sealed bearing)
Front bearing 6307 (sealed bearing)
The bearings to buy are made in Japan. If you buy cheep China bearings then you are asking for trouble because that is what was in your machine to start with. Timkin and *** are 2 of the best made bearings.
To remove the bearings you can use a hammer and a metal punch. To install them use a hammer and a 2X4 on end and be careful not to damage the bearing. This is easy to do.
An appliance repair shop will charge you the price of a new washer to do this repair. The choice is yours.
The hardest part is the door bellows. Not too hard, just need a couple of tools and an hour or so. First, open the door. Next you need a thin bladed Richard brand knife model #S-12 or a razor blade and a flat thin screw driver. The seal has been glued on and you need to find a place that you can slip the screw driver between the door and the seal. Jently pull as much of the seal away from the machine as you can. Once you find a glued piece slip the knife bewteen the seal and the machine to cut the glue. It is good glue so it will take some time to do this all of the way around the door opening. Once all of the glue has been cut, undo the plastic water spout clamp, reach inside of the machine and grab the seal by the top of the wash tub. Pull down and out at the same time and the seal will come out with a little effort but watch out for the tension spring. The spring has some tension and could come out rather quick so do not have your head by the door when doing this step. This concludes the removal and since you bought a new seal, all that is neccessary is to clean off all of the glue residue on the machine and the years of grime on the tub where the seal goes. Clean these areas very well and it will pay dividends later.
To install the new seal look on the wash tub at the top and bottom and there should be an arrow cast into the plastic in one of the locations. Line up the arrow on the rubber seal (search for it) with the one on the wash tub. Carefully instal the seal by having a finger in the seal groove and hooking the seal over and under the wash tub lip. Do not let the arrow slip to a new location as you are doing this. Once the seal is in place double check to make sure that the seal is properly installed. Now gently push the seal into the wash tub so that you have access to the outer lip of the wash tub where the tension spring goes. 2 people are required for the next step. One person will place and hold the spring in the groove and another person will stretch and feed the spring in both directions around the spring groove. Take your time and do not loose your cool with this step. If you need to use non pionted or sharp tools to assist, what ever works is fine. Once the spring is in place you need to reglue the door seal to the machine. I use black RTV silicone from your local auto parts store. Place some glue into the channel and pull the gasket out from inside the machine. Slip the seal over the lip all of the way around the door opening and remove any excess silicone. Let this cure over night before using the machine. That is the end and the door seal is replaced.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
This is a very complicated machine utilizing no transmission, rotor/stator type drive motor, and a locking/unlocking clutch mechanism design to either engage or disengage the wash basket. These machines are tricky even for professionals to properly diagnose.
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore HE 110.4751 front load
soild metal part fits in groove around door boot spring goes in at bottom they can be tough to get back on after inserting in groove around seal you'll have to stretch the spring and pop it under at the same time band will try to come back out and roll seal back off lip..good luck
Posted on Jul 17, 2008
Don't have much experience on Frigidaire. Is the motor a brush type, capacitor type or one of those new DC types? If it's got brushes and they are ok, then I would say your armature is up the creek. If it's a capacitor type (unlikely) then the capacitor is most likely duff. If it's the new DC type it could be a lot of things, most likely the module which breaksdown and passes an AC component in the motor supply which make the motor tremble but not rotate
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
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