Question about GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a GE front load washer ( model wcvh6400j0ww ) the tub is loose i checked the pulley and bearings have no movement . the parts diagram i have dont show the back of the tub, so i cant tell how the shaft attaches to the back of the tub. can you help ?

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  • Anthony Dec 30, 2012

    I have the same problem with a GE washer the bolt heads broke off from the spider trunion holding the drum. What I would like to know is has anyone found the part number for just the trunion or where to purchase it. everywhere I look they want like $400 for the basket assembly, what a rip-off.

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  • 264 Answers

That sounds like a broken spider that's what holds the drum i think that model is a sealed drum so you cant get to put a new one on if you want to take the lid off and if you can see bolts screws or clips holding the plastic drum together if it has any of them the it can be stripped down to take the drum out but you will find if its just a spider then its going to cost around 50 to 60 pound if its a sealed drum where the spider is pop rivet to the drum then you will need to by a drum complete with spider big job i'm not joking OK if you need more help get back to me OK

Posted on Nov 07, 2012

  • Jacob Safrit Nov 07, 2012

    yes the plastic drum is split with bolts. will let you know when i take it apart, thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 176 Answers

SOURCE: Loud noise from Kenmore front loading washer

Here is a compilation of my advice on repairing these units
This is a cronic problem of front loader machines. The two bearings that hold the wash drum are dried out and then they over heat. The heat builds up and weakens the seal that keeps water in and grease out starts to leak and the problem just becomes worse with every load. A service repair man will charge you the cost of a new machine to fix the unit. You can replace the bearings and seal with parts from a bearing supply store and if you do, only use bearings from Japan or Germany. Your machine came with ones from China and that is why these machines are failing after so many years.

The bearings on the back of the outer shell, the ones that spin the drum, are finished. There is also a seal on the inside of the shell that keeps water from leaking and it is leaking also. As a result the brown grease from the bearings is seeping past the seal and contaminating your wash. You need to replace the bearings and seal to fix the problem. You can go to your local appliance store and order the rear half of the outer shell for about $230.00 and have the same problem in 4 years. Or you can buy the bearings and seal at a bearing supply store for about $100.00.
The part numbers needed are:
Seal #408010 DAE (vulcanised double lip seal)
Rear bearing 6308 (sealed bearing)
Front bearing 6307 (sealed bearing)

The bearings to buy are made in Japan. If you buy cheep China bearings then you are asking for trouble because that is what was in your machine to start with. Timkin and *** are 2 of the best made bearings.
To remove the bearings you can use a hammer and a metal punch. To install them use a hammer and a 2X4 on end and be careful not to damage the bearing. This is easy to do.
An appliance repair shop will charge you the price of a new washer to do this repair. The choice is yours.

The hardest part is the door bellows. Not too hard, just need a couple of tools and an hour or so. First, open the door. Next you need a thin bladed Richard brand knife model #S-12 or a razor blade and a flat thin screw driver. The seal has been glued on and you need to find a place that you can slip the screw driver between the door and the seal. Jently pull as much of the seal away from the machine as you can. Once you find a glued piece slip the knife bewteen the seal and the machine to cut the glue. It is good glue so it will take some time to do this all of the way around the door opening. Once all of the glue has been cut, undo the plastic water spout clamp, reach inside of the machine and grab the seal by the top of the wash tub. Pull down and out at the same time and the seal will come out with a little effort but watch out for the tension spring. The spring has some tension and could come out rather quick so do not have your head by the door when doing this step. This concludes the removal and since you bought a new seal, all that is neccessary is to clean off all of the glue residue on the machine and the years of grime on the tub where the seal goes. Clean these areas very well and it will pay dividends later.

To install the new seal look on the wash tub at the top and bottom and there should be an arrow cast into the plastic in one of the locations. Line up the arrow on the rubber seal (search for it) with the one on the wash tub. Carefully instal the seal by having a finger in the seal groove and hooking the seal over and under the wash tub lip. Do not let the arrow slip to a new location as you are doing this. Once the seal is in place double check to make sure that the seal is properly installed. Now gently push the seal into the wash tub so that you have access to the outer lip of the wash tub where the tension spring goes. 2 people are required for the next step. One person will place and hold the spring in the groove and another person will stretch and feed the spring in both directions around the spring groove. Take your time and do not loose your cool with this step. If you need to use non pionted or sharp tools to assist, what ever works is fine. Once the spring is in place you need to reglue the door seal to the machine. I use black RTV silicone from your local auto parts store. Place some glue into the channel and pull the gasket out from inside the machine. Slip the seal over the lip all of the way around the door opening and remove any excess silicone. Let this cure over night before using the machine. That is the end and the door seal is replaced.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: ge harmony top load model wpgt9350copl washing machine

This is a very complicated machine utilizing no transmission, rotor/stator type drive motor, and a locking/unlocking clutch mechanism design to either engage or disengage the wash basket. These machines are tricky even for professionals to properly diagnose.

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE 110.4751 front load

soild metal part fits in groove around door boot spring goes in at bottom they can be tough to get back on after inserting in groove around seal you'll have to stretch the spring and pop it under at the same time band will try to come back out and roll seal back off lip..good luck

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

SOURCE: frigidaire front load washer won't spin, belt looks good, makes noise

Don't have much experience on Frigidaire. Is the motor a brush type, capacitor type or one of those new DC types? If it's got brushes and they are ok, then I would say your armature is up the creek. If it's a capacitor type (unlikely) then the capacitor is most likely duff. If it's the new DC type it could be a lot of things, most likely the module which breaksdown and passes an AC component in the motor supply which make the motor tremble but not rotate

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ball Bearing Replacement

when spinning , it is noisy. How to overcome it.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

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Rumble on spin


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING,

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet




Feb 27, 2014 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

Tip

How it works: Late model Ge top loading washer


The late model top loading GE washer is much different than it's original models that were so much more dependable than these newer ones are. To access the innards you must forst remove the front panel. Older models had the top pop up first but these newer models have the top bolted down. To get the top up you must first remove the front panel by using downward force on the top between the tiop and the front panel. It is not easy even for eperienced techs but cuss it a minute and it will come off. Once it is off you will notice the washer has an elecetric pump. Strings and junk get into this pump. It is easy to take apart and cleanup. The tub is suspended on 4 rods and the lateral movement is kept in check by 4 rubber cord mounted to the top called bungies. The motor and tranny can easily be accessed by removing the tub from the washer. After disconecting the power cable and pump the tub lifts out. Not all GE washers use the same motor or the same transmission method. Some do not even have a tranny. I have some GE washer service manuals.


GE front access late model washer





on Dec 13, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

During spin cycle loud clunking noise


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING,

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet




Feb 16, 2014 | Frigidaire GLTF1670A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Replace bearing and outer tub


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING,

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet



Feb 13, 2014 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

1 Answer

Spinning cycle sounds rough


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING,

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet






Feb 12, 2014 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Thumping and banging during the high speed spin cycle


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING,

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet


Feb 08, 2014 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

1 Answer

When machine starts to spin machine clunking sounds.


If it is a front loader, odds are the bearing is defective.

Mar 08, 2017 | Whirlpool Gold Duet GHW9400P 3.8 Cu. Ft....

2 Answers

How do i replace the front gasket on a ge front load washer?


When you buy parts from us here at Accurate Appliance & Parts Supply, we provide parts removal/installation instructions for our customers.

Just contact us at:
http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service
and we willget the correct part out to you asap.
Thanks, Ella

Nov 17, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

H3 Elite washer.... steel tub is wobbling and cutting into the plastic ring liner. If steel tub or has separated from bearing, is this covered under warranty.... after 4 years.... or not. How expensive is...


rear pulley nut is loose. tighten . if it has been loose for a while pulley may be warped and also tub bearing and spin basket could be bad. dont have your specific model # to know if in warranty . can go to wpl .com and check warranty with your model # or kenmore then go to sears.com . i would use another servicer we waive are service fee if you fix the washer we only charge 65.00 service call. im sure you can find a servicer with a lower service call. thats the highest ive ever heard they will charge you double what anyone else charges.worse case scenerio could be 300-400 dollars if tub, pulley , spin basket need to be replaced. but i say its worth you replacing pulley or checking nut any other repairs for this i would just replace unit. again check your warranty i think the spin basket has a 10-20 yr warranty.

Sep 19, 2009 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Machine not spinning properly


The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components. Enter your model number into the PartDetective on the Find & Order Parts page to see all the parts available for the unit.

Go here for Magic Chef Washer Parts: http://www.repairclinic.com/Magic-Chef-Washing-Machine-Parts


www.RepairClinic.com

Jan 25, 2009 | Magic Chef CAV2000 Top Load Washer

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