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I put a few gas on the toyota 4k carburetor then i start the get run after a few second the stops again

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: gas not getting to engine

Hello

From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Checking the Carburetor Solenoid. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then On Some Solenoids you can Remove the Needle and Replace the Solenoid to Test them.
>>****PLEASE DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH THE SOLENOID BYPASSED IN THIS MANNER. THIS IS "ONLY" FOR TESTING.****
>>For Others, Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long for the Horizontal Mount Solenoids and 1/4" to 1/2" Long for the Vertical Mount Solenoids. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid.
>>***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES***
>>Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jet Properly.** **Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. There is Some Slop/Free Play in the Solenoid Pin. Usually the Electromagnet is Simply Not Pulling the Pin as it Should or there is a Small Bur on the Pin. Use 440 Wet Dry Sand Paper and Engine Oil to Clean the Pin. Wet the Sand Paper with Oil Until it is Flexible and then Lightly Polish the Pin. Clean and Lightly Oil the Pin before Inserting it Back into the Solenoid. Just a Film of Oil is All it Takes.**
If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good, then
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 11, 2009

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  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: lawn mower ony runs at idle and dies after seconds

try holding the throttle open

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman weed eater wont run

MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE THE CARB GASKETS. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING FRESH FUEL WITH THE RIGHT MIXTURE. COMPRESSION SHOULD BE AT LEAST 90LBS

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

  • 197 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 suzuki rm 85 wont start cleaned carburetor,

if it has reed valves, check them for either cracked or broken pedals. also try starting it with the air filter removed. also make sure the choke is operating properly

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

  • 603 Answers

SOURCE: My toyota 4k engine consumes too much gas, is

NO such adjustment exists.
Maybe you have developed a heavier foot?

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

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follow this steps and fix it. God bless you


Carburetor

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds, the carburetor might be clogged or have bad fuel in the float bowl. If old fuel was left in the lawn mower for a long time some of the volatile ingredients may have evaporated, leaving a thicker, stickier product that is more like varnish or shellac. This sticky fuel can clog up the small jets and ports in the carburetor and it can be difficult to burn allowing the engine to only run for a few seconds. The only solution is to drain the old fuel from the float bowl and thoroughly clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner. If that isn't effective, replace the entire carburetor.


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Carburetor Kit

If the engine stops after a few seconds it may not be getting enough fuel. The engine needs air, fuel and spark to maintain operation. The carburetor has two inputs, fuel from the gas tank and air through the air filter. The carburetor is designed to mix the air and fuel in a consistent ratio so that the engine can run continuously. If the carburetor is not getting enough air or fuel, or if the fuel is blocked inside the carburetor the engine stops after a few seconds. Rebuild the carburetor with this carburetor kit.





Gas Cap

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds and then stops running, the gas cap might be defective. All gas caps have a small vent to allow air back into the tank when the engine is running - otherwise as gas is drawn from the tank it would create a vacuum. The vent can be difficult to see and there are many different types of vent. If loosening the gas cap a little allows the engine to stay running, replace the gas cap. It's sometimes possible to clean the vent, but on most newer engines the vent cannot be cleaned, it should be replaced.





Gas Cap with Gauge

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds and then stops running, the gas cap with gauge might be defective. All gas caps have a small vent to allow air back into the tank when the engine is running - otherwise as gas is drawn from the tank it would create a vacuum. The vent can be difficult to see and there are many different types of vent. If loosening the gas cap a little allows the engine to stay running, replace the gas cap. It's sometimes possible to clean the vent, but on most newer engines the vent cannot be cleaned, it has to be replaced.





Old or Bad Gasoline

If the lawn mower stops after a few seconds, the carburetor might be clogged or have old or bad fuel in the float bowl. If old fuel was left in the lawn mower for a long time some of the volatile ingredients may have evaporated, leaving a thicker, stickier product that is more like varnish or shellac. This old or bad fuel can clog up the small jets and ports in the carburetor and it can be difficult to burn allowing the engine to only run for a few seconds. The only solution is to drain the old or bad fuel from the float bowl and thoroughly clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner. If that isn't effective, replace the entire carburetor.


Spark Plug

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds the spark plug might be defective. All small engines have an ignition coil. The coil is the device that provides spark for the spark plug(s). If the coil is bad there won't be spark to the plug(s). The coil is essentially a small, induction generator. It is mounted next to the flywheel. The flywheel has one or more strong, embedded magnets. As the flywheel spins, the magnet(s) zip past the induction coil, this action of a magnet passing past a coil induces a voltage. Depending on the design of the coil and the strength of the magnets, a stronger or weaker spark can be created and delivered to the spark plug(s). Each time the flywheel spins around a spark is generated. The best way to test a spark plug is to use a spark plug tester. The spark plug should have a strong, visible spark between the electrodes when the engine is cranking. If it doesn't, replace it.

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I have a poulin pro 220 chainsaw. I just replaced the primerbulb and the only way it stays running is if the choke is fully on. If you put the choke to half or off it runs for a few seconds then dies


Check and see if the fuel line is collapsing when you start. The wonderful gas that we have contains alcohol which deteriorates rubber. Gas lines and many carburetor parts are eaten up by this gas. When you go to start your saw it has enough to run but the suction from the carburetor collapses the fuel line, weakened from the alcohol, not allowing any more fuel to pass. When the suction stops, when the saw shut off, the fuel opens up again allowing you to start it again. I had this problem when the government forced this crappy gas on us in the late eighties and I had to carry extra spare parts for my saws because of these problems. Anyways enough ranting, try and change the fuel line and that would most likely be your problem. If it is an old saw it might have done damage to your carburetor and it will need a carburetor kit/rebuild which is not usually too expensive. Hope this helped.

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After priming engine starts first pull, runs a few seconds, occasionally a minute, then slows down and stops like it's out of gas. Will start again on first pull only after re-priming and then runs a...


Hi well this is a little odd,however i have come across a similar thing like this before and what fixed it was the tank breather, it was blocked and after a while the tank developed a vacuum and gas wouldn't flow, so i wonder if this is the same or similar worth a try anyway? try loosening the top a little and see? If that works check the breather tube?
Otherwise, i think that it still must be a gas problem and would troubleshoot that area? maybe the float sticks?

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Car has set for a year, but was working fine before it began to sit. Now when I try to start it it wont start. Changed the battery and sprayed starter fluid in the carburetor, it started for a moment then...


This may be a fuel injected engine. On some vechicles when they run out of gas you have to turn the key, but not try to start the car. Give it a few seconds for the gas to feed back through the gas line. Once you turn the key, the fuel pump will start pumping the gas to the engine for the carburator. If that does not work, then give it a little gas, no too much or you could flood the carburator. Try to start the car again.

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Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it
run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,
but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you
buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will
get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the
number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns
they were in/out.
Please rate me, Thanks
Good Luck, I hope this helped

May 02, 2010 | Craftsman 25cc Gas Line Trimmer

1 Answer

Have a homelite grass trimmer crank ok run ok will trim grass for about 2 minutes then stop if you crank it and run for few seconds and the give it the gas it will not take gas just stop have replaced both...


Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it
run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,
but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you
buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will
get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the
number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns
they were in/out.
Please do not forget to rate me, Thanks
Good Luck, I hope this helped

May 02, 2010 | Homelite Mighty Lite Lawn Trimmer

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